Part 2 - The Auxiliary Speaker
So now I had a result but I also had some problems. First off, the baffle step was pretty bad. It could be reduced by making a larger baffle, but I didn't want to do that. I made a quick BSC circuit but it killed the sensitivity and reduced the openess and airiness I liked so much. So I opted to fix it with an auxiliary speaker. That, combined with more time spent adjusting the postion of the OBs, seems to work better for me.
When building the Aux speaker I used a very highly scientific criterion - I realized I never made a speaker with passive radiator and PE was having a sale on 8" PRs. So I got a
Dayton 8" shielded DVC subwoofer (which plays to a much higher frequency then you'd think) and build a modified passive "
Triska Sub" crossed over to match the baffle step problems I was having.
Attached is
1) A picture of the auxiliary speaker
2) A FR plot of just the auxiliary speaker (blue) (see how high it can go?) and the OB6 alone (red). It seems like the tweeter is decaying but in actuality I had my levels set too high and I did a poor job matching the impedence and it is clipping. More on that in the next post or two.
As an additional note, I added a stereo L-pad to the Auxiliary speaker so I can set the level of the original OB's. It works quite well. In my office there is very little cut. When these were in my living room (near the ceiling) I could cut down the higher freqencies to minimize the smear I was getting.
I'll write a part 3 about how I fixed the tweeter response when I'm done fixing it
. I still have some things I want to try.