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conchyjoe7 wrote:
 As I said in my previous reply, and that is confirmed by the reply above. Both camps think they're right and neither will give any leeway. You see, it's difficult for me to care what someone thinks they don't hear (or actually doesn't hear) with an amp in non controlled conditions. Does anyone know anyone that has bought an amp, receiver, or for that matter a TV or DVD player, car, refridgerator, etc. under the conditions outlines above? Also notice that even were all of those conditions met and quote "statistically significant results demonstrating an audible difference" was found, even then quoting above again "then it might be interesting"...it might be interesting...IOW, nothing would convince. That said, in totally uncontrolled conditions that are merely played and not rigged (another favorite accusation) most people still find what they perceive to be an audible (or visual) preference and difference in most things. |
The human brain is a very interesting thing that works in ways most don't realize. First off humans like to categorize things into various groups this is because of the wiring within our minds. For successful categorization there must be differences between these items. If differences don't exist often times our minds will fabricate them; this is one form of bias which is extremely common in uncontrolled environments.
You are correct in saying it is unlikely that someone would be able to ABx or double blind test every purchase they make, but it is possible to avoid this step with credible measurements and application of various research in the field. If one understands what aspects could make an amplifier audible with a certain pair of speakers at required SPLs then it is completely feasible for someone to purchase an amplifier based on measurements alone that will be completely inaudible with any given speaker.
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conchyjoe7 wrote:
I've said this many times before...If you can't hear any difference; good for you: Just think of how much money you have (or can) save(d) by being able to buy a $499.99 HTIB and it sounds as good to you as anything out there. I imagine to some an IC output device also does as good a job and sounds for all intents and purposes identical to a totally discrete output stage; especially at high SPLs... I will admit that it does seem a little strange to me that the people that almost always seem to be attempting to justify and defend their purchases are ones that have bought "pro" gear or other ummm, shall we say less expensive equipment with 10 zillion watts per channel into 0.0000001 THD even though it costs $200.00 and weighs in at 12 lbs, and not the people that have bought "high(er) end" gear and are delighted with it. It does make one wonder that what with no differences, why Abbey Road Studios would see fit to use B&W 802D speakers and power them with Classe Audio amps...hmmm?! As I said in my first response...this argument will never go away. If you're happy with what you have; that's great irregardless of what you have... |
Being delighted with a piece of gear has nothing to do with it being quality or not as shown by companies such as Bose.
As far as the Classe amps paired with the B&W802Ds this is likely a packaged purchase. Simply put the B&W802Ds are some of the highest quality monopolar speakers on the market especially as it relates to studio monitoring. This is due to their extreme linearity and lack of all audible coloration. Classe happens to be owned by the same company that is owns B&W. So it is likely a deal in which the parent company 'sponsored' the studio occurred where they got a "one company" system.
For more on the subjective/objective debate as it relates to amplifiers please focus your responses to
this thread.
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imbeaujp wrote:
To me, the the problem with pro amp is the fan noize !
I am considering a Pro amp to drive my sub but not for the full range mode. |
This is normally an extremely easy fix if you don't mind opening up your unit. For some pro amps you can just pop in a replacement fan that has a lower noise floor. For others you can solder a resistor in the line that slows the stock fan down. This weekend barring time I will be replacing the fan in my EP2500 and plan on taking pictures for a mini tutorial.