cynical2 wrote:
 Mech/Bill: Since he's interested in reflective coatings, what about having him order 2 bottles of the AA and mixing it at 4:1 with Dutch Boy "County Fairgrounds 32-R-2", which has an RGB of 227, 212, 200?
The values for your 4:1 base (meh's headache #1) were 234, 221, 209...normalizing to blue, yours are +25, +12, 0. And, your final mix ended up slightly red deficient (189, 191, 191).
County Fairgrounds, normalized to blue, is +27, +12, 0. So, it should creep a tiny bit more towards neutral than your current mix. Getting the AA is $7/bottle + shipping at dickblick. Two 4oz bottles mixed with a quart of base paint, and he'd be all set with a BW alternate that I would think would be just fine...and much better than the Folkart pearl...for about $30 total.
Anyway, it's another option...mech, I know you've done a lot of work on getting the neutrality right, but have you also tested the AA panel with your pj?
To answer one of your original questions, rookie...yes, I did the pearlizing medium thing for my 1st screen. The color shifted red, but I was able to calibrate out of it. After a couple of months, I changed to a known OTS neutral grey (True Value Winter Mountain), and I felt that the image improved significantly. Even my kids commented on it, and they didn't even know I had painted. They just said "What did you do to the screen, it looks a lot better?" I learned from that experience that even though you can often use your pj to adjust the picture and deal with color issues, it's far better (from the standpoint of image quality, and overall color accuracy) to start with a neutral screen and not have to change what's going on at the projector to compensate for an issue introduced by the screen. |