[wbassett]

For this and the next several posts the layout will be known screens that match the thread title. All options mentioned will be screen methods (both commercial and DIY) that perform exceptionally well. There is no particular order or preference of one being better than another. It is a compilation of known screens. For more information on a particular screen, refer to the appropriate thread for that screen option.

White Screens
White- what exactly is white? Technically it's a color value of 255 255 255. Black is 0 0 0. Anything in-between is technically gray. The thing is at a certain level we see and perceive these very light grays as white. Our brain is a complex but funny thing. We look at our surroundings and certain things we 'know' are supposed to be a certain color, so that's how we see it. Nobody has pure white walls, even as white as the trim looks, as stated it technically isn't a true pure white.

So does all of that really matter? Not really. Just that we understand a few things and why so many whites can look so different from each other.

White screens are some of the most basic and easiest. They are also the most forgiving when it comes to calibrating a projector. For dedicated rooms with total light control, white screens will produce the most accurate color reproduction as well as the best and most stellar whites.

Sounds perfect right? Well sadly no screen is perfect, nor is there any screen that is a one screen suits all. White screens take the biggest hit when it comes to ambient light viewing, and depending on the projector, they can even be too bright. 12 fL (foot Lambert's) of brightness is considered ideal for total lights out viewings. I've observed that you can go to 14fL and still have a vibrant image without whites and bright colors that bloom, but higher than that and eye fatigue can set in, even headaches.

Another issue is if the room isn't a dedicated theater room, meaning darker colored walls and ceilings, a bright white screen can actually produce it's own ambient light problems. The light from the screen can and will bounce off the white walls and ceiling and back onto the screen. As I mentioned, white screens tend to wash out quickly and for some people this rebounding light is enough that some people prefer another option. However if they are willing to make a few adjustments to the room, they can correct any scatter light issues that may be a nuisance to them.

Without further ado... the know white screens.

Commercial Screens (No particular order)

Material screens

StudioTek 130- 246 246 241
Carada Brilliant White- 244 245 242
UltraMatte 150- 244 243 238
(more to come)

Commercial Screen Paints

Digital Image Ultra White Base- 248 247 243
Digital Image Optical Coating Only- 239 240 235
Digital Image Ultra White with Optical Coating- 247 245 238

DIY Theatre White Platinum No Contrast- (Readings coming)

Digital Theater White (No Data-never tested)

Goo Systems CRT White (No Data-never tested)

Liquiscreen True White (No Data-never tested)
Liquiscreen White Plus (No Data-never tested)

Rosco Off Broadway White White (Readings coming)

DIY White Screens

Material and Substrates (No particular order)

Pionite White SW811- 239 238 236
Formica White 949-58- 238 236 236
Wilsonart Designer White D354-60- 234 236 235
Formica Bright White 459-58- 234 236 234
Parkland Plastics Polywall- 235 237 232
Do-Able- 224 225 223

Paints

Behr UPW- 249 249 245
Kilz2- 234 237 234
Rosco Off Broadway White White (Readings coming)

Note Rosco is listed under both Commercial and DIY. That is because Rosco acknowledges the paint is used for screens for theater and stage applications, but it's not technically sold as a pure commercial screen paint.