[phaseshift]

Robert,
I think what you are doing is cool and I can see that you are really enthusiastic- I wish doing speaker work was still as fun for me as it is for you now. That said, I want to mention something that I am observing in your photos-

Your cabinets look good, but they need a lot of braces. For instance, if someone else did a system like your using low quality, low excursion drivers, they would be looking at a significant amount of displacement even though the drivers did not move a long way.

In your case, you are using several good quality drivers with a pretty high Xmax / Xmech. If you really drive those things out near Xmax, you are very likely going to have cabinet issues in terms of reliability and I would bet you lunch that without braces, you will have acoustic problems (cabinet noise). Keep in mind that all that cabinet movement is either out of phase or lagging somewhat; regardless of which, it is bad for your sound quality and cuts into your SPL. In your case, you should have plenty of SPL, but I am concerned that you may have some cabinet issues to deal with. Specifically across the big opening in the nicely cut oval windows on the inside of the cabinets. It will not look as nice, but bridging that with a couple of 25mm X 50mm strips of MDF well glues and screwed in place will make that area significantly stiffer and likely benefit the quality of the end result.

You are mentioning the current draw on the amplifiers as a concern – ( someone was ). With the Crown and QSC amplifiers, I am pretty sure that you can get a power curve on them and if not, you can do it yourself with a big resistor, but you will need to be careful to get the right stuff. A cheap Fluke meter like a 187 will be adequate for the voltage and will catch and hold with adequate speed. You will need that for the output voltage and for input voltage, you need an inductive (clamp on) meter; again, Fluke has a few very good ones for under $500. Actually, you can use your PC as a signal source or buy a test CD and go that route for the signal input to the amp. Simply look at the voltage into the resistor, do the math and you have your wattage. The current will be a direct read if you have the right meter.
What you need to consider there is if your GFI will see the sudden change in current due to transients or other rapid changes in current as a fault in the circuit and trip the breaker. I am guessing that you would not have this issue if you are using active crossovers so that the amps never see the transients out above 200 Hz or so.

Please take my comments as constructive; I really get a kick out of that sort of stuff.