Discuss CSS SDX10 Ported Build Thread in the DIY Speakers | DIY Subwoofers forum.
I have finally been able to start my second sub build, and it is long overdue. First of all, I ...

**Owen Bartley** · **02-01-09, 09:32 PM**

I have finally been able to start my second sub build, and it is long overdue. First of all, I have to thank Sonny and the Shack, and Bob and Creative Sound Solutions for the driver, via this past summer's contest thread. I had some early plans, which I mostly stuck to, and the enclosure is a pretty standard ported 1.56 cubic ft., tuned to 24.5 Hz. It ends up with a 3" port, 17" long with a roundover at one end.

The amp I chose was the BASH 300, also from CSS, which I ordered when I won the SDX. I'll have some bracing built in when I see how the internals look, and it does use a double thick front baffle. It looks like this will share LFE duties with my old faithful Tempest, depending how they play together. Enough talk, here are some pics, and I'll keep updating as I go.

This is a very nicely built driver, with some good looking binding posts.

I almost missed the smell of MDF dust!

This is a pretty small sub, almost like a slightly larger, fatter tower PC case.

It's also packaged pretty tightly, but everything should fit well.

Front firing, and I'll have to do a decent job finishing it since I want it up front in the room.

I got as far as cutting out the amp mounting hole, and rounding over the inside edge.

I know it won't really do anything, but I want to round over all inside edges anyway. Makes me feel better.

More to come soon...

**Owen Bartley** · **02-01-09, 09:32 PM**

*** SPECIAL SIDE PROJECT ACTION ***

Since I wanted to do everything a little nicer, a little cleaner, and a little better this time around, I decided to do the driver cutouts with a router, using a jig, instead of hand cutting with a jigsaw and having ugly wavy lines. This necessitated the construction of the jig. thanks to some very informative posts here at the Shack, I think we were able to get off to a good start.

The jig is made from 1/4" plexiglass. Here it is taped to the original router piece for sizing.

Drilling the holes...

...and countersinking.

Test fit went well.

Out comes the centre hole...

And we taped a line...

...and marked out the measured locations where the pivot holes would be for standard 8" to 15" drivers (for mounting and flush mounting.

UPDATE: Here it is just about finished and ready to try some test cutouts

I'm pretty happy with how it turned out, and it worked quite well in the end.

**Mike P.** · **02-01-09, 09:57 PM**

Nice cabinet work.

What will you be setting the high pass filter to?

**Sonnie** · **02-01-09, 10:25 PM**

I have one of these that I may use in the great room after I move the Pulse out to the HT room. This will give me a good idea of something I can follow. I look forward to seeing the finished project and the results.

**Owen Bartley** · **02-02-09, 05:45 AM**

Thanks Mike. I actually somehow managed to mess up the length on the sides, which is why there's a 3/4" overlap in the pic with the amp. Then when I saw it, I contemplated leaving it as a "design feature" to help protect the connections at the back.

Based on this spec sheet, it seems to have 1db of boost from 25-30Hz, but I haven't been able to determine if there is a rumble filter or not. If that's true, I'll just leave it alone, but I'd rather not have it cutting any of the signal above tuning.

Sonnie, I'll keep you updated. It seems like you have your hands full with your next big project, which I'll be following too! This little guy's not quite in that league, but so far it seems like it will be a great small sub.

**Mike P.** · **02-02-09, 07:31 AM**

The Filter Fc is the frequency of the rumble filter. The default value is 17.7 hz.

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**Owen Bartley** · **02-02-09, 10:19 AM**

Either I was really sleepy when I was looking that up last night, or incredibly lazy. I'll probably just leave it at the default value, but now that I'm looking over it with fresh eyes, and comparing to the Win ISD model you made in my old thread, it might be pretty nice to have the 3 or 4db boost around 25Hz (green). Would that just wreak havoc on the excursion do you think, or would I be safe at reasonable listening levels with 300w? It's still technically above the designed tuning frequency.

**Mike P.** · **02-02-09, 01:19 PM**

With a 22.8 high pass filter and 3 db of boost you'll reach Xmax at 33 hz with 110 watts and have a large hump in the response. With a 20.4 HPF and 1 db of boost Xmax is reached at 33 hz with 300 watts, a much better choice.

**Owen Bartley** · **02-02-09, 02:02 PM**

Thanks Mike, I guess that makes my choice easy. It's amazing how thoroughly I've forgotten how to model a speaker and check parameters like that after a few months away from it. And I can always tweak the response with the BFD if I want to add a little more low end boost and tame earlier humps.

**Owen Bartley** · **02-03-09, 06:06 AM**

Small update today. I decided to order one of the flared port kits from CSS to compliment the CSS amp and driver, so I should have a 3FP kit coming soon.

Now I have to adjust the length for the flares on each end to keep my tune, but is there a formula for that, or a general rule of thumb? I was set on a 17" port without the flare.