CRT based RPTV Convergence Repairs

**lcaillo** · **12-31-07, 09:17 PM**

I rarely see resistors fail along with the convergence ICs in this model. While the chip is out, look for heat stressed resistors and verify that the large ones near the output IC are not open.

**sasquachh** · **12-31-07, 10:04 PM**

I'll check them out when I replace the IC.
Thank you for the Info., I do appreciate it. Soon as I get the work completed I'll let you know the results. I'll take pictures along the way.
Thank you,
Larry
PS: Is there a guide or anything which details the procedure in replacing the IC? It doesn't look like it's going to be brain surgery but I appreciate all the help I can get

**12-31-07, 10:56 PM**

Hey there Sasquachh. I have the same model tv, and i just did my repair about a month ago. One advice, as you remove the harnesses one-by-one, its a good idea to number them, and then draw an approximate location on a piece of paper. I used masking tape and a sharpie. Basically, a rough layout of the location of the harnesses on the board. The harnesses are numbered, but the numbers on the board are not easily visible, and a layout on paper will help guide you when you're putting them back. Pretty much all wire-ties will have to be undone. Do not force the wires out, and always hold the connector, not the wires. When you have removed the assembly completely, be sure to carefully dust it off with some compressed air for electronics. Do this away from the tv set and preferably not inside your house. You can get a can from radio shack or a similar store. And while you're there, pick up a little tube of thermal paste. You'll need it for the new chip.

The center board will have to be removed from the frame. Be careful when you handle the board after you've unscrewed it. I used a piece of cardboard on the table, then flipped the board over and de-soldered the chip. After you have removed the chip, the resistors can be tested.

I am giving you some hints as I assume you have not done anything similar before. Pardon my ignorance if I offend you. Sorry, I did not take pictures, my camera's memory card has been acting up.

So, take your time, and good luck!

**sasquachh** · **12-31-07, 11:13 PM**

Kaindia,
thank you so much for taking the time to explain this. You're right, I've never done anything like this before so I do appreciate any help I can get. Being out here in snow-covered Southern Utah help is further than just down the street. If only this TV broke 6 months ago when I still lived in Irvine California, there were more than enough electricians around there, but going through this was my destiny I suppose

In any case I'll follow your advice. Thank you again and "Happy New Year".
Larry

**Typhus** · **01-01-08, 11:35 AM**

Quote:

lcaillo wrote:

You could get a service manual but if you just look for the largest heat sink you can't miss the location of the IC. IIRC, your set uses a single STK393-110 rather than two ICs. Be careful to buy only from the recommended distributors.

Hi lcaillo, and thank you for the very detailed steps you have provided in attempting an IC repair.
I will be attempting to fix a convergence issue on my Mits WS65807 and was just curious if I have (2)
STK392-570 chips, or just (1), as in the above post.
Thanks, Typhus

**01-02-08, 06:20 PM**

Great forum!

I have a Hitachi 53UWX10B. I was going to order the 150 IC's, but apparently the 160's run cooler? Do I need to change out any resistors from what I have now (110's that are bad), assuming they're still good if I switch to the 160's (or 150's for that matter)?

How do I find out which kit to order? I had found x480293, but I'm not sure if that comes with 160's or not. This site has a x480293 kit and it says it comes with 160's, but I don't know how to tell if they're original or not (audiolabga):

http://www.audiolabga.com/mal_cart/d...l/X480293.html

Thanks!

**lcaillo** · **01-02-08, 06:48 PM**

The kit under the part number X480293 should be a Hitachi supplied kit and if so is the correct one for your set. Just make sure that the supplier is an authorized Hitachi distributor. I don't know if Audiolab of GA is or not, but I know Tritronics, Vance Baldwin, and Andrews are.

**01-02-08, 06:57 PM**

Ok, thanks. I'll find out if they are.

What about the first question in my post about the resistors?

**lcaillo** · **01-02-08, 07:03 PM**

If you have the right kit from Hitachi, I would recommend just changing all of the resistors that they have supplied for your set.

**01-05-08, 12:18 PM**

I have hitachi ultravision 61UDX10B. Based on informantion provided by Icaillo, I think I have a convergence problem for blue in vedrical channel because when I try to adjust the convergence for the blue for vertical channel... it does not converge. See attached picture. Will changing IC fix this problem?

Thanks,

**lcaillo** · **01-05-08, 01:17 PM**

Changing the ICs AND any open resistors AND adjusting the convergence should solve the problem.

**01-13-08, 03:49 PM**

Thank you very much Icaillo for an informative thread about RPTV Convergence. I have a Samsung HLC473WBX/XAC and its on its second convergence episode. The first time I paid cash to the tech where I placed the sevice call to, $375. After reading about this problem I think the manufacturers should have sent all of us to a course before purchasing a RPTV.lol.
I would like to ask you about a Diod/Resistor on the back of the board. It looks like its encased in clear material. I tried to check it with DMM, infinite on Ohms and no effect on Diod setting.
Thanks again,
nik

**lcaillo** · **01-13-08, 06:02 PM**

What do you want to ask? Do you have a location number? Why is this part of interest? I am not sure I know the answer but I would have to have more info before I can respond.

**01-16-08, 10:50 PM**

Good Evening;

I have a Sony KP-53XBR45 set that has the following issue: The top left and bottom right corners are distorted, whereas the blue and red look wavey. For example, if I turn off my source equipment, and the set displays "VIDEO 1" in the top left corner, the letters appear nice and straight in green, but a red and blue copy of the letters start out about 4-5" lower at the "V", but by the time you get to the "1", the three colors are almost aligned.

Am I correct to assume this is a convergence issue? When I select the convergence aligmnent in the user menus, I can adjust red or blue down and left / right, but not above the center mark.

I do component level repairs for a living on two way and RF infrastructure, but never really played with TVs. I can troubleshoot to componenet level, and can read schematics and understand circuit designs, but its always nice to know of common issues to speed the process. I have a fully equipped shop (tools, soldering/desoldering stations, scopes, etc), so hopefully I can get the "D" board out and down to my workshop to perform a neat job replacing the two STK392-010s. I wish I read your posts earlier about upgrading to newer (better rated) parts, but at least I think I got original Sanyo parts. Speaking of which, is there any way to tell an original from a knockoff? The ones I have here have the STK # in white, with a date code in the upper left. My experience with most parts is that originals have the mfg's logo or similar on it. Not the case with STKs?

While I'm on a roll with the keyboard - has anyone repaired a Sony KP-53XBR45 or similar for the same symptoms?

Thanks
Botcher.

**lcaillo** · **01-16-08, 11:06 PM**

Replace the ICs, check the fuses and resistors, and make sure the heat sinking is done properly and you should be fine. The best way to be sure that you have original parts is to buy them from one of the suppliers that I listed.

**01-17-08, 04:59 PM**

I removed the D board and replaced the STK392-010s this afternoon. I had some difficulty with the heat sink grease compound, as the original compound turned into a glue-like substance. I had to carefully pry off the old STKs with a fine blade, then carefully use a razor blade to remove the old material. I then carefully cleaned the heat sink, and installed the new STKs with new compound. More time messing with the compound then anything else!

I guess 12 years of heat and dryness did in the plastic clips that held the D board in place, because the minute I touched them, they all cracked off. Fortunately the screws hold it in place securely enough.

I then noticed how much dust settled on the three color gun lenses. I cleaned them off and could see clear glass again. I then fired up the set, and the convergence is fine

The picure looks brighter and better than it has in years

Now I have another few minor issues I'd like to tackle while I'm at it.

First, the focus looks like it has been a little out for some time. From what I read in the 53XBR45 service manual, the only thing I see for focus is 3 adjustments on the SCREEN/FOCUS block. My only past experience has been the single adjusment focus on older single CRT tv sets. How do I go about re-focusing this RPTV?

Another is that the upper left corner of the screen has always slanted down a little. For example, when the Directv channel info banner, or a sports score banner is displayed, it looks un-level. The right hand side looks fine, but the left side slants down a few degrees. However, the bottom edge of the screen looks perfectly level, so it is ok as far as I can tell. Just the top edge. The left/right sides also look straight when I display an HD channel (the set is only SD, but as a test, when I tune a DTV HD channel, the box is showing the side bars, and they look straight as can be). I'd like to try and adjust it back. Any idea what adjustment(s) would do that?

Finally, the built in NTSC tuner. When the set is turned on, the tuner will not tune any channels, and it looks like it is trying to AFC a channel, but never quite gets to a point of actually displaying anything other than black noise, and no detection of audio, just a buzzing like static noise. Sometimes, but not always, after a few hours of being on, the set will tune channels just fine. I would equate it to a VCO unlock condition on a PLL circuit (from my two-way radio experience). I mostly use Video in sources, so its not the end of the world. Any ideas where to start?

Thanks
Botcher

**lcaillo** · **01-17-08, 10:46 PM**

Adjust the R,G&B focus controls for the best focus overall. Clean the mirror as well as the lenses. The geometry on these sets was not perfect and can be a challenge to get right in one corner without trading off something else. If you are not skilled in this area I would not mess with it. The tuning problem is likely bad solder connections in the IF block or the Tuner, probably the former.

**inn8pwr** · **01-25-08, 03:30 PM**

I have an SD-643HD5 Pioneer 64" rear projection TV that has lost the green grid geometry a bit in all modes. I've ordered the IC's and will install them assuming there are the likely fix. I feel I'm running a bit on ignorance tho. Once they are installed, will the green geometry go back to normal? If not, where does one suggest I get a service manual from? I'd like one that's not a scanned version with unreadable tables. Thanks,

**lcaillo** · **01-25-08, 07:44 PM**

The only place to be sure that you are getting the original manual is Pioneer. Their manuals are typically ridiculously expensive, however. That unit likely had an .pdf version of the manual and you can probably find an adequate copy on the web somewhere for considerably less.

If you are replacing a defective IC, you should be in the ballpark but need some convergence adjustment in all modes.

**inn8pwr** · **01-29-08, 11:14 AM**

I found the Manual on Manualparadise.com in PDF format and was provided this link on another forum: http://home.earthlink.net/~oleg.fili...ergenceFix.htm

I also received the IC's and will attempt the repair myself. I'll let you know how it goes.

**inn8pwr** · **01-29-08, 11:19 AM**

I was looking at the "multiconvergence" photo on the link above and note that the green grid looks perfect while only the red and blue look wavy. On my set the green is the wavy one. Is this an IC problem with the green or is there a seperate more likely cause? I'd hate to do all the work for nothing. Thanks.

**02-03-08, 02:01 PM**

Thanks for this great forum. Yesterday I replaced the two STK392-120 ICs in my Phillips 60PP9202. Green was out of convergence when I would first turn on the TV. After it was allowed to warm up and I turned it off & on a few times, it would clear up. However, I knew one or both of the ICs were going bad. While I was replaceing the ICs, in error, I did not check the resisters. Know when I turn it on, the colors are in convergence, but the entire picture is bowed like an hour-glass layed on its side.

Might this be one or more of the resisters?

I have also read that it may be a "Convergence Amp", is this different that the ICs?

Thanks for any direction you can give me.

**lcaillo** · **02-03-08, 03:56 PM**

Quote:

inn8pwr wrote:

I was looking at the "multiconvergence" photo on the link above and note that the green grid looks perfect while only the red and blue look wavy. On my set the green is the wavy one. Is this an IC problem with the green or is there a seperate more likely cause? I'd hate to do all the work for nothing. Thanks.

The green can have the same problems as red and blue. Read the info in the thread about how the circuits work.

**lcaillo** · **02-03-08, 03:59 PM**

Quote:

Fast Hound wrote:

Thanks for this great forum. Yesterday I replaced the two STK392-120 ICs in my Phillips 60PP9202. Green was out of convergence when I would first turn on the TV. After it was allowed to warm up and I turned it off & on a few times, it would clear up. However, I knew one or both of the ICs were going bad. While I was replaceing the ICs, in error, I did not check the resisters. Know when I turn it on, the colors are in convergence, but the entire picture is bowed like an hour-glass layed on its side.

Might this be one or more of the resisters?

I have also read that it may be a "Convergence Amp", is this different that the ICs?

Thanks for any direction you can give me.

If all of the colors are bowed in you likely have no power to the convergence amps. Check the fuses in the power supply to the chips as well as the resistors. Failure to replace the resistors can damage the new chips, also.

**inn8pwr** · **02-03-08, 10:56 PM**

Reading the last few links it appears clear that one should check and/or replace the fuses, resistors and possibly convergence amp. I need help identifying these components. I assume a 60w iron will work well on the board and while I'm replacing the IC's perhaps it's best to do the others as well. Any info on the the part numbers and location for online ordering are also very helpful. I'm starting to think that my local shop should get involved, but honestly, the guy that showed up seemed to have "no clue" when it came to pioneer models. They just recently became a pioneer shop, but, well,... you know. Thanks for any advise.

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