CRT based RPTV Convergence Repairs

**cwilliamrose** · **08-27-08, 05:29 PM**

I was afraid I hadn't caught it early enough since we had suffered with the problem for a couple of months. If I had visited here first, I may not have been so quick to swap them out. I was getting a perfect picture when it wasn't in it's failed mode.

I still have the original chips and have marked to cheapo's as suspect. I should probably just throw the cheapo's away, why would I want to see them installed again -- ever?

I did more than the required disassembly the first time I removed the board. I slid the tray out a few inches to improve access to the fasteners. That wasn't necessary on my TV and the last two times I removed the board I just used different tools instead of moving the tray. I did carefully replace any wires I had removed from their ties.

As for service menu adjustments, is focus and convergence the extent of what I'll need to do? I'll need a service manual as well. Not knowing all the pitfalls makes me wonder if I should go there. I don't know anyone locally (Ft. Myers, FL) that does calibrations, Craig at MG Home Theater brought his RV to town in 2004. It took him 7 hours and he had screen templates for geometry adjustments, etc. I don't mind spending some time doing it if I can really improve it beyond where the customer menus go. I don't expect to get it back to where Craig had it.

...........Bill

**lcaillo** · **08-27-08, 10:31 PM**

If you have not messed with the focus you probably don't need to do it. If you are not confident in what you are doing you should stay out of the service menu. I don't have any trips that way scheduled now, but I may in the near future and I could calibrate it for you. Stay in touch.

**cwilliamrose** · **08-28-08, 08:57 AM**

I worked on the convergence last night and got it pretty good except the extreme edges where things seem to get a little difficult. Also, looking at the Avia DVD's overscan screen and grids, I notice the images are shifted left -- or maybe stretched left. I didn't measure to center to see if the whole thing is off or just the left side. I also noticed some areas that look like they have focus issues, kind of like what you'd see if a camera lens had some smudges here and there. Maybe I could post some photos if it would help, or maybe this belongs in a different (new?) thread.

I may take you up on the calibration offer. Craig Miller was to do a touch up after two years but I think he had stopped traveling by then. I'm sure it's due.

Thanks again,

Bill

**AAjax** · **09-08-08, 03:18 PM**

Hi,
Quick question, I have a JVC av 48wp30 that Im going to do a IC swap on, however my main question is about the rear panel sensor. I did remove the rear panel to inspect the unit, however it was unpluged durring this inspection. My question is, did I hose my TV by doing this? I would never open up a unit while powered but I have read conflicting information as to this "feature" on my unit with some saying it should be OK with the power being unplugged while others outloooks are not so bright.
Secondly would you recomend the 160 unit as a replacement for the 110 stk's in this unit?

In any case, thank you for your post as this is a great resource.

Jax

**lcaillo** · **09-08-08, 03:46 PM**

You should be fine, but considering how flaky JVC is, no gaurantees. They may have the thing designed to electrocute you if you remove the screws in the wrong order.

**AAjax** · **09-08-08, 04:42 PM**

Quote:

lcaillo wrote:

You should be fine, but considering how flaky JVC is, no gaurantees. They may have the thing designed to electrocute you if you remove the screws in the wrong order.

Yeah, no doubt JVC was rather devious on this "feature" Thanks for your reply.

**09-29-08, 08:08 AM**

Thanks for providing such a great resource.
My TV woke up with a headache. Convergence is suddenly way off, all colors, with curved picture. So I think it's not a problem with the 6 individual ICs, but whatever "master controller" drives or powers them. Any ideas on what to look for? It's a 2002 SONY KP65WV700 CRT RPTV.

Newbies like me can't post URLs, so I can't show the picture. But the picture is curved, with exaggerated convergence at the edges. Blue and Red are about 8" apart at the screen edges. Picture is perfect in the center of the screen.

Adjusting the convergence crosses (manual convergence) has no effect - they don't move, and the built-in auto-focus starts and then aborts in a few seconds.
Thanks!
Chris

**lcaillo** · **09-29-08, 12:43 PM**

Bad convergence IC, bad solder connection, open fuse, or some combination of these. Read the first 10 posts carefully.

**10-01-08, 09:46 PM**

I have a panasonic HD RPTV: model #PT-51HX42F

Due to convergence problems, i have taken your suggestion to replace the convergence ICs. The original chips were STK392-110. For this model tv, would you recommend replacing with the same chip, or upgrading to the STK394-160?

Also, if I use the same model chip, does the manufacturer matter? I checked the tritronics site and they have a Panasonic brand STK392-110 for ~$51 and a Sanyo brand STK392-110 for ~$16. Is there a difference and what would you recommend?

Thanks in advance

**lcaillo** · **10-01-08, 10:00 PM**

Read the first 10 posts at the top of this thread.

**10-02-08, 09:00 AM**

Thanks, I did read all those posts. I wasn't sure if you recommended the STK394-160 as a replacement for the STK392-110 for all TVs (I know you said most) and/or whether the Sanyo brand was equal/superior to TV manufacturer brand in all cases (and specifically in the Panasonic case). Is there a chance in my case that the STK394-160 would NOT work as a replacement or the SanyoSTK392-110 would not work?

**lcaillo** · **10-02-08, 09:28 AM**

There is always a chance, but I have not run into a situation where the STK394-160 would not replace the STK392-110. The -110 chip should always be upgraded to at least the STK392-150, but I never bother with those. I have used the -160 in the Panasonics and had no problems. You shold be aware, however, that there are other issues with the Panasonics that can be a challenge to service. Be careful.

It is very important to use a good supplier for the parts! ALL of the manufacturers use Sanyo chips. The danger is some cheap copies or seconds that get into the market. When you buy through the TV makers you are more likely to get first quality parts. In the case of the -160, they have only been available in the Hitachi kits for a long time, though some form of them are starting to show up elsewhere. I do not know if they are first qualtiy original Sanyo chips or not, so I just buy them in the Hitachi kits. It is a little more expensive, but I know I am getting good parts.

**10-02-08, 01:23 PM**

Thanks for the info:

How do you feel about the STK394-160's from this link at tritronics:

http://www.tritronicsinc.com/storefr...62&itm_index=0

And can you elaborate on what the other issues are with servicing Panasonics - do they relate to the convergence?

Thanks.

**lcaillo** · **10-02-08, 01:39 PM**

I do not use the TT version of the STKs from Tritronics. The source is uncertain. Just buy one of the Hitachi kits. They have two ICs and a bunch of resistors that you will not likely need, but you know you are getting first quality parts.

**10-02-08, 02:24 PM**

I'm confused: the link I posted to Tritronics lists the parts as: SANYO ORIGINAL IC STK394-160

Is that not OK?

They also have a TT version, but that is a different, cheaper component.

I'm having trouble finding Hitachi kits on any of the websites of the parts distributors that you have listed. If you think this is the best option, can you give me a link to one I can buy?

Thanks again.

**lcaillo** · **10-02-08, 03:13 PM**

I was just warning that I do not trust the TT parts. The part numbers for the kits that I list in the parts post are the numbers that we use to buy them all the time. Just got a couple in from TriTronics a couple of days ago. Just check stock by those part numbers at any of the Hitachi distributors. Vance Baldwin is another good one, as is Andrews.

**10-02-08, 03:51 PM**

I checked those Hitachi Kits at the sites like Titronics, Andrews and Vance. Titronics is the only site that lists the contents of the kits, and none of them have the STK394-160, they seem to use the STK392-150. The other sites don't list the kit contents. Any suggestions as to which kit from which distributor will have the 394-160?

**lcaillo** · **10-02-08, 05:16 PM**

Like I said, we buy them all the time from TriTronics, and all of the kits they have now have the -160. Hithachi originally upgraded the STK392-110 to the STK392-150, then later to the STK394-160. TriTronics sold through the old kits long ago as far as I know. If you are in doubt, call them and ask.

**10-02-08, 05:42 PM**

I just called them and they said all their kits come with the 392-150's. They sell the 394-160s separately (that was the link I posted originally), but supposedly not in any kits...little confused here. Does it matter, or should I just get the kit and use whatever comes in it?

**lcaillo** · **10-02-08, 08:05 PM**

Called who? Tritronics? Like I said, we order them all the time. Haven't received a -150 in over a year.

**Ken1970** · **10-04-08, 01:52 PM**

Thank you for so much information. I have followed your advice and bought a Sony replacement "kit" STK394-160 to upgrade the original STK392-110's I have in my Toshiba HD TV. I have the set pulled apart and find the IC's sandwiched between the heat sink and a soldered in vertical card. There is no room to remove the screws from the IC's. Only approximately 1/2 inch clearance in front of the screws. I would hate to unsolder that entire vertical card. Do you have any advice for me??

Thanks!

**lcaillo** · **10-04-08, 02:06 PM**

Remove the heat sinks. Be sure to resolder all of the joints on that board with ring cracks.

**Ken1970** · **10-04-08, 02:33 PM**

Thanks for all of your help!

**Dave610** · **10-18-08, 02:25 AM**

Icaillo,

I've just joined the forum, and I must say this thread has been the most informative I've found so far - thank you for all the info you've provided at the start.

The vertical convergence of the blue on my Pioneer Elite Pro610HD just went, resulting in a large, sweeping "wave" of blue along the bottom of the screen. After researching many forums, I've come to the conclusion the one of the STK's has gone bad, or a bad solder joint (well aware of Pioneer problems, I fixed the power supply a long time ago)

What would you recommend for STK392-110 replacement on this particular model? Some sites say STK 392-150, yours recommends STK394-160, which seems to be hard to find on the companies listed on the distributors thread.

I'm pulling the conv. block tomorrow to check for obvious problems, may have to get resistors and pIco fuses as well as the STK's ( I'm hoping just bad solder), do you recommend a place that has it all, perhaps a kit? Thank you for your help.

**lcaillo** · **10-18-08, 08:52 AM**

Please start a new thread to discuss each new problem.

I use the STK394-160 in that set.

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