CRT based RPTV Convergence Repairs

[Dave610]

Thanks lcaillo, I'll order these and let you know how it works out. Wish these were available locally. Guess I'll have to watch the set as-is for now, even if I went the in-house repair route, there's a 2-week wait to even have it looked at. Sigh...

It appears that I now have an IC problem as my Pioneer 52"RPTV has the arch at bottom of screen and ghost image. The red & blue lines move on the convergence setup but the center line appears short on the bottom so I assuming it's the green that has the problem. One question though - for several months before this happened, occasionally (once every couple hours or so, if left on continuously) the TV would "pop" and the screen would go blank (audio also) and within 1-2 seconds it would come back on. Would this be a resistor problem?

[lcaillo]

Not sure, but I would check them when you have the set apart to change the ICs. You could also have the common problem with bad solder joints on the power supply board.

[Dave610]

Winger58 wrote:

One question though - for several months before this happened, occasionally (once every couple hours or so, if left on continuously) the TV would "pop" and the screen would go blank (audio also) and within 1-2 seconds it would come back on. Would this be a resistor problem?

I would most definitely check the power supply board for bad solder, and re-solder if necessary, along with what lcaillo suggests about the IC's & resistors on the convergence board.

There is an extremely long, but informative thread about blue flash/shutdown problems on Pioneers, titled "Pioneer Elite Pro-510 problem" in the 'Rear projection Units' forum at www.avsforum.com. My Pro 610 started exhibiting these blue flashes/bright screen problems (although it never shut down) about 3 years ago, I immediately re-soldered the power supply, and haven't had a problem since. (except for recent convergence chip replacement) Note that you will have to dig deep into that thread to get specific info about the DIY repairs.

Do not run the set any longer in this condition! Turn it off and make the repairs now, before further damage can occur.

My first post here and let me begin it by thanking lcaillo!

I had a workmate who just got given a Hitachi 61UDX10B for FREE, but only because it had issues that turned out to be the bad IC chips/resistors. I did some research for him and wound up here, and was amazed to find out what a common issue this was, and the fact that I would be able to possiblypull this off for my friend really had me excited...

Anyways, his set had the 110's in it, and the set was exhibiting a terrible bow in the blue color, and when doing magic focus, blue wouldn't even appear... So, I pulled out the board and got to work... I was building up speed by the time I got to desoldering the second chip, and all said and done I consider the repair somewhat easy. Got the 160 chip kit with resistors from Andrews, and replaced both chips and all included resistors. We put it all back together, closed it up, and turned on the set with bated breath and EUREKA!!! A perfectly functioning TV!!!

So, to conclude, thank you lcaillo!

- moved to pioneer

[lcaillo]

Please post your question in the Pioneer forum as a new thread. Note that someone posted a very similar question about Pioneer earlier today and I responded to it. I will review your post once it is in the proper location.

[kcsmilak]

I just want to say thank you to lcaillo for this extremely informative thread. I have a Hitachi 53FDX20B and was able to do this repair on my own using Kit 9 from B&D. I actually replaced the two ICs 9 months ago and then recently the convergence went out again. I replaced the ICs again last week but it didn't work initially. After rereading this thread, I double checked all the solder points and replaced a few resistors. I would not have known what resistors to check if it weren't for the diagram in this thread. At this point, everything in HD works great but some of the lower resolutions still are out of alignment. However, I think that's my fault for manually adjusting the convergence and getting the factory settings out of whack. When I try to adjust the individual scan lines, it seems impossible to get it straight and so a section of it is wavy. Regardless, since I watch HD most of the time and that seems OK, it's not a big issue. In particular since I'll probably upgrade to a flat panel sometime next year. For now it can definitely get me by.

Thanks again. It's a life saver and was fun at the same time.

[derekll]

First off, great thread, lcaillo! I've been doing research to fix a friend's TV, and I found this. Very informative!

Anyways, I had a question about using STK394-160 in place of STK392-110. My friend did a lot of research on this problem after he got a quote from a technician () and found many people suggesting the switch to the newer chip. When he gave me the details of the job, he said he found info that said the new chip uses different resistor values. I was skeptical, and since you didn't mention that in here, I'm pretty doubtful. All the resistors are metered as good, and I can't find anything about changing the values. I think he misinterpreted something about changing bad ones.

So, my question is: does the STK394-160 require different resistance, generally speaking, or does it have the same impedance values as the STK392-110? Thanks!

[lcaillo]

Please provide specific information when asking a question or posting information. Without the exact model number of the set, it is impossible to answer your question. I have heard of some techs claiming that resistors needed to be changed in some models. I have not found that on the ones that I have done. I can tell you what I know about your model if I have that info.

Also, please start a new thread in the proper manufacturer's forum, if it exists, or here if not. Include the model number and as much about your problem and what you have done to diagnose it as possible. Things like the dollar signs are not very useful to others. It would be helpful to know who did the estimate, whether they were factory authorized or not, exactly what they diagnosed, and how much they estimated for parts and labor. Did the servicer specify the original part or a replacement?

[derekll]

Ok. It's a JVC AV56WP74. I'll post details on the JVC forum. I just thought that you might be able to answer based solely on the chips and your experiences with them, since I would have thought if they work in one set, they'll work in another.

Hello...I originally posted this in an audio forum and was refered here.

I'm buying a 50" projection TV off craigs list for next to nothing - guy says it has a slight color issue (I will find out how slight later when I see it - could be nothing, or nothing I cant live with - I dont know yet) but other then that its in tip-top shape as I understand it.

Now, I've opened up a few analog/standard TV's and if memory serves me correctly there is usually some kind of fine tuning screws/knobs for color adjustment (besides the color adjustment knobs outside the TV) that are inside the TV that can be played with. I dont know anything about projection TV's this will be my first, can someone tell me if there are any sort of fine tuning (tuners - screws) that can adjust the color from withinside the projection TV itself? I beleive the guy told me its a magnavox brand TV.



[edit to add] If I cant fix it, ballpark what or how much would repair cost be?

[lcaillo]

Without knowing the model of the set and some evaluation of the problem, it is impossible to say. Post the details in a new thread in the proper manufacturer's forum when you get it and maybe we can help. You will have to be specific, and you will need to read any threads related to your problem carefully if you expect to be ale to get any useful information.

Alright, I replaced a couple bad Pico fuses and the IC chips in my Sony 46" tv. When replacing one of the chips we were unable to make a solder connection on one of the pins. The area around the hole was brown while the board is green. I currently do not have control of the Red convergence horizontally. Did we ruin the board or do we need to try harder on getting the solder to stick?

[lcaillo]

There is no way to know with this little information.

You will need to bridge the connection from the trace that remains to the pin. If you use it with a pin not connected, you may or may have damaged the IC.

Please start a new thread in the Sony forum and include the details such as the model of the set, the chips used, the vendor, and how much you paid, everything you checked in the circuit, the pin number and which chip, etc. Others may find the information useful and you may get some specific help.

[fordman1]

Hi I have a Hitachi 46F500 with chassis model DP23F that need a convergence repair and looking for the best kit for my model ?

[lcaillo]

Hitachi does not have a kit specifically for this chassis. Just use any of the Hitachi kits but don't assume that the resistors are the same. Use the chips and check the resistors, especially RK42, RK46, RK50, RK54, RK58, & RK62. Replace them with the same value that is in the set if open or thermally damaged.

[82280zx]

I just wanted to stop in and say thank you for all this wonderful guide and all the help you have provided me with Icaillo, your a life saver. I replaced my convergence chips and 2 fuses and my tv came back to life. I guess I do have a few last questions, any idea how long (generaly) that life span of the tubes are (It's just more or less curiosity not a big deal on this question)? I'm worried where the tv is a little old that it might leak coolant on my board someday (no signs of leakage yet) and I have noticed very slightly burns in my picture from when my parents used to watch the news all week (not very noticable but I can see em). Another question I have is that I noticed my horizontal seems a bit to the left (cutting off the video a little) or seems to be stretched a little to big so my picture isn't fitting into the screen correctly, Is this a correction I can do myself? Or does a tech need to put a scope on it? And where it looks like you do this kinda work Icaillo do you guys bring scopes to peoples homes to adjust there sets or is the equipment to big to carry around? And if you guys do what do you generaly charge to adjust sets (Just so I have an idea of what I might be looking at if I call a tech)? Once again thanks for all the help I was stoked to see the tv come back to life and so far I haven't had any problems with it, it's staying on =) . Thanks again I couldn't of done it without your guide or these forums.

[KENEB66]

Just wanted to thank you for this thread and your help. I finally got my Sony back up and running. Had to pull the boards back out several times but got it fixed finally. Had to replace both IC, 2 fuses on the power supply board got my blue and green working with that. Then found one more bad fuse on the Red high on the convergence board. Thanks for answering all my question you saved me alot of money and frustration.

[lcaillo]

82280zx wrote:

I just wanted to stop in and say thank you for all this wonderful guide and all the help you have provided me with Icaillo, your a life saver. I replaced my convergence chips and 2 fuses and my tv came back to life. I guess I do have a few last questions, any idea how long (generaly) that life span of the tubes are (It's just more or less curiosity not a big deal on this question)? I'm worried where the tv is a little old that it might leak coolant on my board someday (no signs of leakage yet) and I have noticed very slightly burns in my picture from when my parents used to watch the news all week (not very noticable but I can see em). Another question I have is that I noticed my horizontal seems a bit to the left (cutting off the video a little) or seems to be stretched a little to big so my picture isn't fitting into the screen correctly, Is this a correction I can do myself? Or does a tech need to put a scope on it? And where it looks like you do this kinda work Icaillo do you guys bring scopes to peoples homes to adjust there sets or is the equipment to big to carry around? And if you guys do what do you generaly charge to adjust sets (Just so I have an idea of what I might be looking at if I call a tech)? Once again thanks for all the help I was stoked to see the tv come back to life and so far I haven't had any problems with it, it's staying on =) . Thanks again I couldn't of done it without your guide or these forums.

Coolant leaks are more or less likely to occur depending on the brand and model. Geometry and position can be corrected but you will need to go into the service mode and I suggest getting the manuals before trying it. They at least provide some reference to what controls do, but they do not provide step by step directions. A scope is usually not needed unless doing more detailed troubleshooting. I have a USB scope that I can use with my computer that I carry to look for some signals, but my larger, wide bandwidth scope stays at the shop.

Charges for adjustment vary greatly, as do the skills of techs. If you want geometry, convergence, gray scale, and other performance related adjustments, I suggest you find a calibration specialist, not a service tech. Likely cost is around $300, but will vary.

Thanks for the thanks.

[duner]

just a note to thank Icaillo for providing the forum with a resourse of immeasurable value. also a note on troublshooting that hasn't been addressed during this post. i first happened on this site when researching hitachi 53uwx10b convergence issues and proceeded to make the needed IC repairs. all went well and the set returned to normal for a short while then failed again, same issues. before replacing the IC's a second time i discovered the wiring to the wall recepticle had loosened over the years and had been arcing unnoticeably causing who knows what kinds of spikes on the line. after repairing wiring to the recepticle and replacing the IC's and resistors a second time the set has worked well ever since. again, thanks.
P.S. does anyone have a favorite supplier for the tech manual for this set?

[zymurgy7625]

lcaillo, thanks so much for offering up all of your expertise. By reading your postings now I know what my so called service tech did wrong, and am confident that I can fix it myself. I have a Panasonic 51hx43 that had the stk392-110's in it. I am replacing both with the stk394-160e's that you recommend. I have ordered the service manual for my set but have not received it yet, which brings me to my question. In a posting here I read that you recommend replacing the six 2.2 ohm resistors. Is that six resistors per IC, or six total? Like I said, I don't have my service manual yet, but when looking at the board it appears that there are six per IC for a total of twelve. Thanks again for the great information and your support of Scouting.

[lcaillo]

Some techs have reported problems using the -160 in the panasonics, so I have gone back to using the original parts in those sets.

I do not recommend replacing resistors unless they are damaged or open. I do not recall which resistors are in each model, so check the manual or look at the board.

[zymurgy7625]

lcaillo, when you say some techs have reported problems putting -160's in panasonics what does that mean? They never work,sometimes work,etc? I've received my manual and have figured out the resistor question, there are six. Thanks again for all your help and patience.

[lcaillo]

I mean exactly what I said. Some have reported problems using the -160. I do not know the details beyond that, but when otherwise qualified techs tell me that they have found that in some models they did not work as expected, I don't take chances and I use the original parts. Apparently there may be something different in how the muting circuit operates between the two chips in some applications. I have not experienced the problem myself, but I don't take chances with substitute parts. When there is any doubt, use the same part that came out of the set. In the case of Panasonics that is what I recommend.