New Shackster needs a Painted Screen! - Page 13 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

Old 08-23-07, 01:46 PM
Elite Shackster

Steve Mechelke -mech

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Empire Township, MN
Posts: 14,914
My System
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

Well I used butt joints and I do cabinetry work as a side hobby...

It'd be a lot easier for folks who aren't comfortable with or own a miter saw. You're going to see the joints irregardless, whether they're mitered or butt. But you have to look closely to see them.

As for the measurements, the inside of your velvet frame matches your measured screen size.

mech
mechman is offline

Old 08-23-07, 01:53 PM
Elite Shackster

Steve Mechelke -mech

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Empire Township, MN
Posts: 14,914
My System
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

The Mitsubishi calculator is the one I used for everything regarding my HC3000. It's located here.

mech
mechman is offline
Old 08-23-07, 01:59 PM
Senior Shackster
Jim

Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 560
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

Quote:
12th Man wrote: View Post
My neurosis has flared up again. I measured the projected image at a width of 110.5". I found the following formula on AVS and when I work out the numbers they are slightly off from yours. What is the formula you used for the above measurements?

Here's the formula from AVS --

h=height, w=width, d=diagonal

h = d / 2.04
w = 1.78 x d / 2.04

So using my very limited and rusty algebra skills and the width formula shown above I worked back to calculate the diagonoal at 126.64" based on my measured image width of 110.5".

Then using the height formula above I get 62.07" which is VERY close to your first calculation (below) but the widths seem more off (110.5 vs. 110.22), or are they?

[PIE]62.00" x 110.22" (about 110 1/4), gives a screen diagonal of 126.46"[/PIE]

I know we are splitting hairs here and I will ultimately be able to zoom to fill the whole screen so this is just thinking things through out loud as much as anything but if you have any last minute input I'd love to hear it. Making the cuts tonight after work.
I'm not using an online calculator...I'm using a spreadsheet that I made.

I used 16:9 exactly...they used 1.78.

16/9 is 1.77777778.

I'd suggest you do the following before cutting any wood (two person job, so grab your wife or a buddy):

(1) On a projected image, measure the two diagonals to make sure they match (i.e. make sure the diagonal measurement from the bottom-right corner of the image to top-left corner of the image matches the measurement from the bottom-left corner to the top-right corner).

(2) Take two horizontal measurements (one near the top of the image, one near the bottom) and make sure they match

(3) Take two vertical measurements (one near the left edge of the image, and one near the right edge) and make sure they match.

Only after all 3 pairs of measurements match will you know that you have a perfectly shaped rectangle with perfect 90-degree corners...and you're ready to measure the image for your frame.

Then, measure the height of your image and the width of your image. Make the inside of the frame that size (just forget about the calculations...what's important is that the frame matches the image you're projecting).

You may want to make the inside of the frame just SLIGHTLY smaller than the measurements you take so that the image just overlaps onto the frame. That way, you ensure that there are no gaps between the image and the frame. You can also just accomplish that by zooming the image slightly, if your projector does that.

Oh, and I agree with mech that butt joints are fine if you're wrapping it with velvet, and much easier to execute. I should mention that some people claim that miter cuts (45 degree cuts) look more professional, but I think that for the average DIY'er, a butt-joint will look nicer overall. A perfectly executed miter joint might look slightly better than a perfectly executed butt joint (and that's debateable...the velvet probably makes the joint type almost inperceivable unless you are looking for it), but cutting two 45's to match perfectly to create a 90-degree corner is not as simple as you might think unless you own very expensive equipment that is extremely accurate. My \$400 compound miter saw doesn't make perfect 45-degree cuts. The "average Joe" more realistically has the choice of having a poorly executed miter joint or a well-executed butt-joint...and the butt joint will look better in that comparison.

One piece of advice...if you're using butt-joints, the first thing you should do is to nip the end off of each board, and measure from that. Factory ends on lumber are oftentimes not square (may be 85-95 degrees, instead of 90 degrees exactly), so start with a nice square end that you make yourself. If you're averse to cutting the ends to start with, at a minimum put a carpenter's square on the end to check squareness before you start. Personally, I just nip the end(s) off of every piece of lumber that I buy, unless for some reason I absolutely need the full length of the board.
cynical2 is offline
Old 08-23-07, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
12th Man

Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 61
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

Thanks as always! I said at the beginning that I am not a handy man and this has been quite a learning experience. I'm a little embarrassed about all the hand holding and seemingly silly questions but here is one more. Last one for the day, I promise...

Any recommendations for securing the butt joints? I was planning on "L" brackets with the mitered corners so should I stay along those lines and look for a straight bracket? Nails?

12th Man is offline
Old 08-23-07, 05:04 PM
Senior Shackster
Jim

Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 560
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

I haven't been through the process of hanging a frame yet...but to be honest with you I don't see where you gain anything by assembling the frame before mounting (someone with more experience may disagree?). If you put an L-bracket at the corners to assemble the frame, then the frame won't sit flush to the wall (unless you remove material in the back of the frame to make up for the thickness of the bracket). I think I would just nail up each board separately. To make sure that you have a bit of "margin of safety" in the mounting, and can make the last board that you mount flush with the two other boards that it would be touching, I think I'd cut the boards like this:

That will give you any wiggle room you need if something is very slightly off (which it will be).

So, I'd wrap each board in velvet individually and then mount them individually.

And, no worries on the questions...the questions regarding building things out of wood I can handle. I've done a lot of that type of work. But, on the painting, I asked Todd and company TONS of questions...we all have our own skills that we start with, and depend on others to help in our weak areas. Luckily, this forum is a great place to get that help, from some very knowledgeable guys that are willing to help us newbies out.

Last edited by cynical2; 08-23-07 at 05:14 PM.
cynical2 is offline
Old 08-23-07, 05:21 PM
Elite Shackster

Steve Mechelke -mech

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Empire Township, MN
Posts: 14,914
My System
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

Quote:
12th Man wrote: View Post
Thanks as always! I said at the beginning that I am not a handy man and this has been quite a learning experience. I'm a little embarrassed about all the hand holding and seemingly silly questions but here is one more. Last one for the day, I promise...

Any recommendations for securing the butt joints? I was planning on "L" brackets with the mitered corners so should I stay along those lines and look for a straight bracket? Nails?

'L' brackets are what I used. Each piece was cut and wrapped in velvet and then all connected via the brackets. I then attached it to my laminate framing. I did not stagger any joints as Jim has in his drawing. Top and bottom boards were full width and the verticals fit inside on the edges.

mech
mechman is offline
Old 08-23-07, 05:38 PM
Elite Shackster

Bill

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Central PA
Posts: 2,234
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

12th, if you go with butt joints you can use the rectangular bracing connectors which may be more stable. Of course mitered corners look nicer, but you could always go with a velvet ribbon tape and cut 45 degree angles on the velvet ribbon itself which would give a mitered look.

Here is some Velvet and DuvePro Ribbon.

"Make everything as simple as possible, but no simpler." - Albert Einstein

"If all else fails, spin the cat."- Grzboken
wbassett is offline
Old 08-24-07, 12:00 AM
Senior Shackster
Jim

Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 560
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

mech, I agree if you're doing a laminate screen then you want to assemble it first. But if you're just putting a frame around a painted wall then I'm not sure if it helps to assemble first.
cynical2 is offline
Old 08-24-07, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
12th Man

Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: McKinney, TX
Posts: 61
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

Quote:
cynical2 wrote: View Post
I think I would just nail up each board separately.
Quote:
cynical2 wrote: View Post
So, I'd wrap each board in velvet individually and then mount them individually.
So you'd put nails through your velvet? How's that going to look? Won't the nails/holes be visible?
12th Man is offline
Old 08-24-07, 09:10 AM
Elite Shackster

Steve Mechelke -mech

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Empire Township, MN
Posts: 14,914
My System
Re: New Shackster needs a Painted Screen!

Quote:
cynical2 wrote: View Post
mech, I agree if you're doing a laminate screen then you want to assemble it first. But if you're just putting a frame around a painted wall then I'm not sure if it helps to assemble first.
Yep! It really depends upon the one doing the work. However they want to proceed. There's a lot of things that could effect one way or the other. For example, I think putting the frame up piece meal is a good idea. However, if there are no studs behind the vertical pieces you don't want to have to toenail these sections.

mech
mechman is offline

 Bookmarks

 Tags painted , screen , shackster

Message:
Options

## Register Now

Random Question
Random Question #2

User Name:
OR

## Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.