Pics of DIY Speakers.

**F1 fan** · **08-28-06, 10:24 PM**

I recently purchased a digital camera so I thought I would bore you guys with some pic's of some of the DIY speakers I've built over the last year or so.

Sorry about the poor quality photos as I am still trying to learning how to properly use my new little toy.

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pic ri.jpg

**Sonnie** · **08-29-06, 01:06 AM**

Very nice work Fred!

Those look like some serious subs in the corners.... what's the configuraton and drivers with those?

**JCD** · **08-29-06, 02:59 PM**

Those look great!

Obviously you're not going to leave it like that..

What were the drivers used?
Where are the pictures of the build process?
Where did you get the plans?
How does it sound?
How did you ultimately decide on this setup?

JCD

**F1 fan** · **08-29-06, 06:04 PM**

Thanks Sonnie for the kind words and re configuring the photos.

The sub in the first and last photos is used to extend the bass of the left and right channels thus making it a four way system.It has two Audio Concepts AC10 10"woofers (one is down firing) in a sealed box and uses a BASSIS eq for fine tuning.Although they still work good the AC10's are getting a bit old and I hope to replace them in the near future.

The sub in photo three is for the LFE channel and it is also sealed using a Clif Design 12" car driver.I will soon be adding my little ELF sub to help it out.

**F1 fan** · **08-29-06, 06:30 PM**

Hi JCD ,thank you.
To answer your questions.
1. Tweeter SEAS 27TBFC/G, Mid Vifa M17sg, Woofer SEAS P21REX/DD, Subs see post above
Passive series crossover at 2k and active LR24 CO at 300hz.

2. Unfortunately I didn't take any but will for all future projects.

3. I combined ideas taken from commercial and DIY designs and my own thoughts of what I wanted.

4. I am pleased with it.

5.This is were I ended up after much experimenting over the years.

BTW what were you refering to when you say not going to leave it like that ?

**JCD** · **08-30-06, 04:48 PM**

Quote:

F1 fan wrote:

Hi JCD ,thank you.
BTW what were you refering to when you say not going to leave it like that ?

That's you'd just post some pics and not give any details.

The one thing that still is WAY above my skill level is designing a good crossover. Someday you'll have to go through the process of designing the one you did with these speakers.

JCD

**F1 fan** · **08-30-06, 08:08 PM**

Quote:

JCD wrote:

That's you'd just post some pics and not give any details.

JCD

Yeah sometimes I keep my posts to brief and leave out important info.

The series passive mid /tweet crossover I am now using is not my design but borrowed from another DIY design.
I previously used a parallel CO that I designed but after trying the series CO I found that it sounded far superior to mine.I lack the necessary frequency response measurement equipment essential to do proper passive CO design so it is next to impossible to get good results.

Initially I was using only a two way and sub but decided I wanted the benifits of a three way system and biamping.Therefore I add another pair of boxes with 8" woofers and amplifier. The choice of an active CO (300hz LR4)between the mid/woofer was straightforward because the results are more predictable without detailed driver measurments.

Doing this gave me big gains in dynamics and improved midrange because the mid driver was now relieved of the stress of reproducing bass.
I plan on soon trying an active CO between the mid/tweet (LR4 at 2k).I just somehow have to find room in my equipment rack for another amp and electronic CO.

**JCD** · **08-30-06, 08:40 PM**

Quote:

F1 fan wrote:

Yeah sometimes I keep my posts to brief and leave out important info.

The series passive mid /tweet crossover I am now using is not my design but borrowed from another DIY design.

I didn't know that would work. I thought the drivers themselves have a certain inductance/resistance/etc that has to be taken in to account when designing the crossover.

Quote:

Initially I was using only a two way and sub but decided I wanted the benifits of a three way system and biamping.Therefore I add another pair of boxes with 8" woofers and amplifier. The choice of an active CO (300hz LR4)between the mid/woofer was straightforward because the results are more predictable without detailed driver measurments. Doing this gave me big gains in dynamics and improved midrange because the mid driver was now relieved of the stress of reproducing bass.

Totally makes sense to me. Most/all of the reference speakers I've seen incorporate more than just a 2 way or MTM setup.

Quote:

I plan on soon trying an active CO between the mid/tweet (LR4 at 2k).I just somehow have to find room in my equipment rack for another amp and electronic CO.

I think you'll find another jump in quality when you get this one setup right. I know some guys who swear by an entirely active crossover network. Of course, buying an amp for each driver can be bit expensive too..

Well, since it's your money

, I hope you go the active crossover route. I'd love to hear your opinions on the final result.

JCD

**F1 fan** · **08-30-06, 09:07 PM**

There I go again leaving out important info.:holycow:
The design that I borrowed the crossover from used the same drivers.Otherwise it would not have worked.

I do have the amp already but no rack space.I think I will have to remove my outboard DAC to make room.
The active filter circuit boards are on order so maybe by Oct or Nov I will have them built up and be ready to try them.

I am very happy with my setup now, but I sure hope this fully active approach will be an improvement.

**JCD** · **08-31-06, 12:51 PM**

I'm almost as excited as you are about the upgrade. Someday my hope is to do the same thing you're doing, 3 way system that has a fully active c/o.

Did you say which c/o unit you're going to be using?
And what amps will/are you using? I was wondering what watts and amps you'd like for the tweeters vs. mids vs. woofers.

JCD

**F1 fan** · **08-31-06, 08:52 PM**

Quote:

JCD wrote:

I'm almost as excited as you are about the upgrade. Someday my hope is to do the same thing you're doing, 3 way system that has a fully active c/o.

Did you say which c/o unit you're going to be using?
And what amps will/are you using? I was wondering what watts and amps you'd like for the tweeters vs. mids vs. woofers.

JCD

It has been my goal for a long time to go fully active and I am finally almost there.

I use a Bryston 10B LR active c/o for the woofer/mid and I will be using this design for the mid/tweet http://www.delta-audio.com/Active_Fi...our_manual.pdf

The mid/ tweet amps will be Bryston 2BLP 60watt per CH.

The 8" woofers are driven by a Bryston 3B 120 watt per CH.

**JCD** · **08-31-06, 08:59 PM**

Dude, just one thing I can say..

A very envious,
JCD

**oceanman** · **09-14-06, 02:24 AM**

Good work,F1

.Probaly sound is very...amazing

**F1 fan** · **09-14-06, 09:32 PM**

Thanks oceanman.

**F1 fan** · **10-03-06, 06:47 PM**

I have begun work on my active crossover for my mid/tweeters.I have all the fancy gold RCA connectors installed in the Hammond case and the circuit boards partially stuffed.I hope to have it completed in the next two or three weeks.

**chasw98** · **10-03-06, 09:34 PM**

Fred, very cool. I like the Active XO. The Bryston XO has to cost a pretty penny though. How does it compare to the one you are building? Have you ever thought about using a DCX2496? Great work.

Chuck

**F1 fan** · **10-03-06, 10:57 PM**

Yah Chuck, the Bryston is a bit spendy but it is a no comprimise unit.It uses discreet opamps made up of hand matched transistors instead of using IC's.This is a rarity and is expensive to do.

Given the fact that it has only eight transistors per opamp compared to the dozens in an ordinary IC the signal will be passing through far fewer active and passive components therefore their will be less degradation.
The unit that I'm now building(can't afford another Bryston) will use IC opamps ,although I will be using premium ones (BB OPA-2134)I doubt it will have the transparancy of the Bryston.

I have no experience with the Behringer unit but it looks like a fun toy to have if you want to experiment with active crossovers.But I prefer pure analog circuits for this purpose and I just wonder how badly the Behringers AtoD then DtoA conversions would degrade sound quality.

**JCD** · **10-05-06, 02:32 AM**

Please ignore this post if you'd like, but what would the final cost of your DIY XO cost?

I'd be curious about such a project.

JCD

Oh, and looks good of course.

**F1 fan** · **10-05-06, 04:34 PM**

When I'm finished I think the final cost will be in the $125-$150 (Canadian)range.I already had the transformer and case for the separate power supply that I will use so this saved about $45.The circuit boards were a real bargain at $5 a piece.

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