Router Question

[Bob_99]

My 30 plus years crusty old Sears router finally became unusable because the starter button pivoted on a cheap plastic pin that broke. While some ambitious person would have found a way to repair it, I found it as a good excuse to finally get a decent router. In any case, I bought a Bosch and so far I am totally impressed with it. This is the first time however that I'm exposed to the plunger type base that came with the fixed base and I was wondering if someone can tell me how to start a plunge that does not wobble off point? For example, I was testing by plunging a one inch hole but every time the bit hits the wood, it would go off center for a brief moment resulting in a not so round top of the hole.

Thanks.

Bob

[Anthony]

Templates and jigs are the only way. A router will walk and kick if not supported.

An edge rail support (a very common accessory) will provide the stability you need. For circles, I like the Jasper jig.

Another option is pre-made templates and a bearing bit or guide collars.

If the router has adjustable speed, trying a lower speed may decrease the amount of kick.

I have the Bosch EVS1617 kit with two bases and love it. I have the older magnesium housing. It has pitted a bit, but is feather light. The newer ones are aluminum or alloyed and don't have the pitting problem, but are heavier. Bosch offered full replacements -- their customer service is excellent.

I also recommend Pat Warners book on routers.

I hope this helps some.

[Bob_99]

Anthony,

Thanks for the information. That's the same Bosch that I bought and wouldn't you know that six weeks after I bought it, not only does it go on sale, but they added a free edge rail support ($80 value). I'll have to buy one and try it out.

Also, thanks for the suggestion the book. I'll definitely check into that.

Bob

[buggers]

You might try Increasing the speed as well.

[starguy]

Bob, what kind of bit are you using? A regular dadoing or rabbiting bit isn't designed to do straight down plunge cuts. A good plunge bit will have a the bottom cutting edge that is tapered with the very outside edge being lower so that it contacts the work first.

Also, use 1/2" diameter shank bits. Much, much stronger and less vibration. Also use the smallest diameter bit that gets the job done. And hold on tight!

[Bob_99]

starguy wrote:

Bob, what kind of bit are you using? A regular dadoing or rabbiting bit isn't designed to do straight down plunge cuts. A good plunge bit will have a the bottom cutting edge that is tapered with the very outside edge being lower so that it contacts the work first.

Also, use 1/2" diameter shank bits. Much, much stronger and less vibration. Also use the smallest diameter bit that gets the job done. And hold on tight!

I was using the half inch straight edge but quickly gave up on it. I was not aware that plunge bits existed but will look into it. Thanks for the information.

Bob

[Anthony]

You can get away with a starter plunge on a regular bit, but you have to get a good look at the design first. The top (plunge part) would have a sharp corner with some of the carbide showing. Every once in a while you'll see one that's just parallel cutting blades -- I usually stay away from those.

I like the spiral upcut bits, but they are VERY loud and can grenade on you if you feed too aggressively. Wear safety goggles and hearing protection. If you can spare the cost, the 1/2" spiral bits are recommended and are less likely to break. But the solid carbide versions of these can go $70+ for a good one. Any spiral bit should be able to plunge just fine.

[starguy]

If you are cutting wood you can get by with high speed steel but if you are cutting MDF or particle board you need to go carbide. A solid carbide spiral bit works great. Here's on on ebay that doesn't cost too much.

http://tinyurl.com/2bnjh5

[mrstampe]

Check out this site for good quality carbide spiral upcut router bits:

MLCS Woodworking

[Bob_99]

Thanks everyone for the information on the spiral bits. I always enjoy learning something new and will definitely have to pick up a book on routing as I was not aware of the existence of these bits and they look really useful. The link to MLCS Woodworking is really great with a lot of information on bits and how-to articles.

Bob