Tapped Horn Build TH-SPUD

[collo]

aceinc wrote:

Do I need the extra wood? Things might get tight in mounting the drivers.Paul

Adding the extra wood will give you a complete surface for the tape to sit against, ensuring a good seal. The corners can be sealed with silicone (from the inside of the box) before the door goes on.

It looks tight, but you can tilt the drivers as they go in. With careful checking before you glue, you should be able to get a wide enough piece top and bottom to get your screws into.

[aceinc]

Well my first test results;

The purpose is to loosen up the drivers.

Playing various "ultimate bass" videos off of YouTube through my Carver Reciever.

My 16 year old son's comment, while standing right in front of the sub, "that isn't a sub, it's an air conditioner."

My lovely bride working on her computer about 5 feet a way said she was getting nauceous, and asked me if the sub could do that?

I will do proper testing soon. My rat shack meter says I was getting up to 105 db at about 1 meter in my computer area. I have no idea what the power rating of my Carver receiver is.

Paul

[aceinc]

I thought I'd post one more picture of the unit with the top off. It looks a bit better in the fresh air.

The bad news is I don't have a garage or a basement, the good news is that this is S florida and this is the best time of year to be outdoors.

[myn]

Looking good!


Looking at this URL here:
http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...ad.php?t=49678

I see a jpg that outlines 2D specifications. Are these the plans you were referring to? Is there other pages/scans that document the other dimensions like width of enclosure or anything else? I see you have a mouth opening where as the design below doesn't show any output besides where the drivers are mounted. How did you determine the size of this opening? And is there confirmation these are truly the TH-SPUD designs from Danley and not someones own idea?




Has there been anyone else besides you that has tried out this design yet? I'm anxious to see some discussion about this design and it's results!

I peaked over at DiyAudio forums and saw a couple of posts by you in the big collaborative TH post but didn't see much other activity of others trying to recreate the TH-SPUD like you are.

Are you planning on getting another amp to power your TH-SPUD?

[aceinc]

Over at audioholics, there is a thread that has the drawing that you posted above. In the same thread pretty early on there is a copy of the spec sheet which defines external dimensions, panel placement, etc.

I don't know if anyone is trying the same thing. I suspect that once I post the results of my testing other folks may make up their mind. I believe I will have time to test it this weekend, I will post the results afterward.

Paul

[aceinc]

Since I am giving the sub away after I am finished testing, I'll let the new owner worry about an amp.

Paul

[myn]

Can't wait to hear your results.

[myn]

aceinc wrote:

Over at audioholics, there is a thread that has the drawing that you posted above. In the same thread pretty early on there is a copy of the spec sheet which defines external dimensions, panel placement, etc.
Paul

This thread: http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...ad.php?t=49678

or is there another?

More specifically:

[aceinc]

Myn, between the two pictures you posted, you should be able to build the box. The material used is 18 mm thick. I adjusted the throat end as you can see in the photos posted earlier, instead of a 60 degree angle for the second driver I followed the same geometry, and stepped it down by 1 thickness of the material, 18 mm.

My approach was to have Home Depot cut two ~43.5" x ~46.5" pieces out of 1 piece of plywood, and rip 4 - 11" x 48" and 5 - ~9.5" x 48" pieces out of another. I took the like pieces clamped them together and using a hand planer made them as even and square as possible. Which I could have done better.

I think the most important part of the project was this step;

I then took the measurements from the first drawing you posted and using a 48" ruler I laid out the position of all of the internal pieces on three surfaces, the top (for nailing), one inside (for placement), and the bottom (for nailing). This took the most time, and I redrew some of the lines three times to make sure I got it right and that they would all line up.

I attached the sides first, though if I were to build another one, I might only do the two sides that internal pieces attach to (I think). I then used lots of glue and two inch brads and a nailer to put in the internal pieces. Don't forget to use a square to get the internal pieces perpindicular to the base. I drew lines on the outside everywhere I needed to nail.

One trick I used for doing the real shallow angles since I didn't trust my cheap protractor, was I used a framing square and a ruler and measured the distance off of square the pieces were at 11.5" which is the width if the bed of my mitre saw. I then cut a piece of scrap that thick and placed it under the piece I was about to cut (11.5" away from the cut). This seemed to work out well. On the piece with the largest angle, the internal piece nearest the mouth, I used the protractor which gave me 94 degrees, and that worked well too.

I am still trying to exercise the drivers so that I can test this weekend. I have disconnected my DS15 and have the sub out of the receiver going to my NAD Amp. On one of the two channels I have the TH-SPUD, nothing on the other channel. I allowed the MCACC auto setup function run, and it had a problem, saying that the sub was too loud. I bypassed the error and let the auto eq finish, when I looked at the settings it had the sub at -10 DB. I watched the Fantastic 4, Rise of the Silver Surfer BD, since I really don't have any movies with good sub wooferage.

I'm not sure about the sound. There are a couple of scenes where I thought there should be more bass, but I haven't watched the movie in a while. I didn't want to do A/B testing with the DS15 just yet. In addition my wife was watching 24 in the family room, and I couldn't turn it up too loud.

Perhaps tomorrow I will take the time and hookup the NAD in Bridged mode.

One other thing I did recently and I would recommend is I had an electrician wire a dedicated 20 amp circuit behind the Entertainment system. Now my lights don't dim when I fire everything up.

Well that's all for now.

Paul

[mcallister]

Very cool. I've been reading the thread about this sub (well not this diy sub but the danley one) over at avs and it is a very cool design. Would love to see a tapped horn utilizing a Maelstrom or something similar. Would probably be giant though.