DIY Speaker and Subwoofer Project Tools and Tips - Page 2 - Home Theater Forum and Systems -

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post #11 of 37 Old 01-16-07, 10:57 PM
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Re: DIY Speaker and Subwoofer Enclosure Tools

I use the Porter Cable 7529 plunge router with the vacuum port. Router bits 1/4" upspiral for cutting out the speaker holes, 5/8" mortise bit to cut speaker inset, 3/4 round over for the baffles and finally a 1" laminate trim bit to clean up in pieces that are to proud. If you veneer you might need a 1/4" bearingless trim bit. All these should be in new carbide not recycled carbide.

I recommend 36" bar clamps as they are pretty good for most projects. Those 48" are just awkward and get in the way walking around your project. I don't like ratchet style clamps as I have broken so many of them.

I like Titebond 3 glue as it has a longer set up time so you can nudge them into place, especially those big panels. One man shop so to speak makes assembly a lot slower with one set of hands. It cost a little more than Titebond 2 but to me it is worth it.

A good table saw is just great to have repeatability and speed of process. I have built 7 boxes now and I wouldn't want to do any without one.

If you don't have a drill press get one of those little jigs that fit on the end of your hand drill to give you perpendicular holes. You will need that for using that Jasper jig.

I don't use screws or nails as the glue is much stronger than the MDF or plywood.

A good 12 or 14.4 volt drill is great to have. I have a Hitachi 14.4 and I really like it. I have had Dewalt in the past and was disappointed in them. They just did not hold up.

Thats all I got on the top of my head for now. Cheers.
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post #12 of 37 Old 01-17-07, 11:09 AM
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Re: DIY Speaker and Subwoofer Enclosure Tools

I recently started using a Kreg pocket hole jig for speaker cabinet assembly. I now use less clamps and can build cabinets faster (I don’t have to wait for the glue to dry before moving on to the next glue joint). Pocket hole screws self tap, are offered in various lengths/sizes and come in coarse and fine threads types (the coarse threads are for man made material like MDF). Plus pocket hole screws are stronger than a butt or dado joint.

The Kreg jig is foolproof and is offered in a couple of different configurations ranging from $20 to $140. There is a system selling for about $60 that has everything one would need to build cabinets. One thing for sure… it doesn’t take long to spend way more than this for a couple of descent Bessey clamps!
post #13 of 37 Old 05-21-07, 11:41 PM
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Re: DIY Speaker and Subwoofer Enclosure Tools

Just to say that WT2 is available at : and works fine !
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post #14 of 37 Old 09-10-07, 07:38 PM
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Thumbs up Box Builder Construction Tips, Techniques, How To's & Homemade Jigs

Hello guys,

I thought it might be fun [and useful] to have a thread that deals with the many aspects of DIY box construction...especially things that that can be done relatively cheaply yielding excellent results.

To start things off, I'd like to share a tip about screws and drywall screws in particular - don't use them! For securing your MDF or plywood panels, there is something 10 times better! What you want are fine thread square drive trim screws. These screws have very small heads [like a finish nail] and totally eliminate any need to counter sink. Pre-drill your holes 1/8" and they will countersink themselves leaving the smallest possible screw hole for patching over. Below is a pic of what they look like:

PS: you may find these at your local Home Depot or Lowe's. Don't ask, look. The guy working the aisle probably won't have a clue if they even have them...

Warmon -
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post #15 of 37 Old 09-10-07, 08:14 PM
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Re: Box Builder Construction Tips, Techniques, How To's & Homemade Jigs

Thanks for the tip, Warmon. Not having to countersink will save me time. I'll definitely be trying them out next week when I build twin 12 Cu. Ft. ported boxes.
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post #16 of 37 Old 09-13-07, 06:08 PM
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Re: Box Builder Construction Tips, Techniques, How To's & Homemade Jigs

This thread should be a STICKY.
I'm building my first SonoSub. Reading the posts it seems everyone uses a router with circle cutter to cut their tops and bottoms. I ended up using a jigsaw to rough cut them after scribing the circles. Then routing the edge clean. This is alot faster than using the router alone. Alot cheaper too as the router bits are tortured when cuting a groove vs just removing a bit of material from the edge and having somewhere for the dust to go.
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post #17 of 37 Old 09-13-07, 06:29 PM
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Re: Box Builder Construction Tips, Techniques, How To's & Homemade Jigs

When using a router with MDF I use "up spiral" bits. They eject the cuttings from the groove and eliminate most of the " cutting the cuttings" which is hard on the bit.
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post #18 of 37 Old 01-10-08, 07:11 PM
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Re: DIY Speaker and Subwoofer Enclosure Tools

I use the model X-305 for holes up to 12" and up to 17" with the X-425 version. The shield controls the dust and acts like a portable drill press keeping the hole cutter aligned perpendicular to the work piece. The blades cut well through wood, MDF, plywood, OSB, and even fiber-cement board (when I installed some outdoor speakers in a soffit around the house.

Safe and easy to adjust for the exact size needed for the cut-out. I even used the X-305 to help a friend make holes for ceiling speakers in his house with its lathe and plaster ceilings. Perfect holes and no worries about cracking the plaster.

I got mine at
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post #19 of 37 Old 01-11-08, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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Re: DIY Speaker and Subwoofer Enclosure Tools

Now that is a neato piece of equipment there... thanks for sharing it with us.

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post #20 of 37 Old 01-31-08, 07:20 AM
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Re: DIY Speaker and Subwoofer Enclosure Tools

If you have a air compressor, the fast way to build a box is to use a 1/4 crown x 1 1/2" long staples, that's what I use to build mine.
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and for some of the trimming.........

a lot better then using a big router
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