Coffee anyone? Coffee table RL-P 15 vented encl. design help - Page 2 - Home Theater Forum and Systems -

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post #11 of 16 Old 01-25-08, 10:35 AM
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Re: Coffee anyone? Coffee table RL-P 15 vented encl. design help

OK Ben, I'm going to push this design on you too because I love the project. Check out JoeL's stage/proscenium sub here. He uses two drivers, but you could do something similar with your one. If you keep it downfiring it will be fairly unobtrusive, and maybe almost invisible depending on what you want and how you finish it. Otherwise you can still make it look like a nice piece of furniture and show it off.

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post #12 of 16 Old 01-25-08, 12:45 PM
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Re: Coffee anyone? Coffee table RL-P 15 vented encl. design help

32 Inches is about the max length you want to go with on a port. Anymore than this and the port may start picking up resonances.
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post #13 of 16 Old 02-09-08, 09:14 AM
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Re: Coffee anyone? Coffee table RL-P 15 vented encl. design help

Hi Benjamin,

Welcome to the forum.....

Because you are still asking for inputs on designs, I'm showing you my sub and comments:

I too, am using the RLP-15's. My avatar photo shows my final design after many rebuilds with many drivers and configurations in the past. I've been working on and rebuilding my system for about 8 years to acheive what I've got now. This subwoofer is a 235 pound beast!

This is a rather expensive way to use two 15's and reach those really good lows in both music and theater explosions and effects. I wanted to hear the really low bass at low volumes for background music and I can do this because of the passives. When I want to go to Eric Clapton or Joe Satriani's music and shake the windows.....It's as simple as turning down the gains on the sub amps and cranking it up!!

My LR is about 600 sq. ft. too, and opens to the dining room and kitchen, making the room even larger. I have 9' ceilings. This single sub fills the rooms with plenty of bass for all applications. I shake pictures off the shelves and walls in the rest of the house.

I used to own a high end Legacy Point One sub, but my sub IMHO, has a much smoother bass without the "punched" sound to it.

You have the added cost of the 4 passive radiators ($80 ea.), but the very low bass extension is really worth the extra bucks. I have been so happy with it I've started another one. I have the drivers here in my office and the cabinet is already started to make a duplicate for a twin sub setup. I can't even imagine having 12 - 15" active and passive drivers in one home theater system.

My cabinet is very close to 5 cu. ft. with driver displacement. The 4 passives are the Dayton PR 15's loaded to 1100 grams. My construction details can be found in the links in my signature and if you have any questions, please feel free to email me.

Passive radiator drivers have their own unique sound qualities and are more difficult to tweak, but I've already done the homework. The low Q of the RLP-15 dual 2 ohm make this an ideal driver for the passive radiator system. You also have a company, Soundsplinter & Mike, that are there for you any time you need 'em! Support from this company is awesome!

Have fun,
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If it is too loud, then you may be too old!

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post #14 of 16 Old 02-11-08, 09:33 AM
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Re: Coffee anyone? Coffee table RL-P 15 vented encl. design help

Guys I misled you... I have an RL-s15. Not sure how I got that mixed up... I know that improves on the 600sq ft situation though. After running through some room layout scenarios, I think the subwoofer would be best suited under the screen surface, to mostly serve as a barrier to keep people away from the screen, and although not in at three plane corner, it could be in a two plane corner. Will I get any corner gain with two planes?

One of the sound splinter engineers (Mike) advised against mounting the RL-s15 in a horizontal configuration. I am thinking a basic rectangular enclosure with the driver and vent facing straight forward.

This opens up the dimensional design constraints to around 30 high and almost anything goes in the other two. This design would lend itself useful if find the need for a second subwoofer enclosure, as the wall is 14 feet long.

Do I want to follow the golden ratio for enclosure dimensions if possible? I could just start with the optimal volume of 9.5cu ft and work backwards.

Who makes a really good reflex port? Are there any advantages to aggressively flared ports (like my Axiom Audio M22s)?

Thanks for so much input at the brainstorming stage guys.

And one more question, what software are most of you running for enclosure calcs... I tried AJ's calc and it doesn't like the QTS of my driver.
post #15 of 16 Old 02-11-08, 10:42 AM
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Re: Coffee anyone? Coffee table RL-P 15 vented encl. design help

Hey Benjamin,

Bass Box Pro is a good program to use.

I spoke with Mike at Soundsplinter about doing another sub project to have the ultimate in the bass quality I could get with his drivers. He told me if I were to use the RLS-15, to keep it in a sealed enclosure for the best results. Follow his guidlines in the Soundsplinter home page for optimal box size enclosure. Account for bracing and driver displacement when figuring your box size.

That particular driver has a Qts of .953 which is very high for a ported or passive radiator system. A Q of .4 or lower is more suited for this design. AJ's design program is looking at the high Q of that driver.

I just decided to take my sub off the market and build another one just like instead of starting all over again with new drivers.

Make sure you've got lots of power for that puppy because it needs it.

Good luck,

If it is too loud, then you may be too old!
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post #16 of 16 Old 02-11-08, 12:10 PM
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Re: Coffee anyone? Coffee table RL-P 15 vented encl. design help

The RL-s15 is a mighty driver (what I would call TC3000/LMS hybrid). In WinISD I would IMO shoot for an EBS design. If the volume is not suitable,from the optimal work backwards,be sure not to underport the driver,check velocity at max (excusion or allowed wattage ...).

The idea is to get the moxt out of the Xmax and have as little port noise as possible. Flaring reduced turbulence...port noise. Flaring is a MUST in my view if not you need huge ports and huge ports sometimes = extyremly long ports. Then you face port resonance and other issues.

ACOUPOWER sells some impressive monster flares(ports). I mean HUGE pourts to vent even the King Kong like Acoupower 18's. Say 10" flared to...BIG.
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