My 2nd Build

[Koopa]

OK so I started with this as a break-in.
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums...#post117032

I'm hoping I haven't bit off more than I can chew. With everyone's help I'm building 2 11.5 cft down firing cabinets tuned (via 3 4" ports) to 18 hz. They will each contain a eD 160v.2 D4 that I picked up when ED was clearing them out. Powered by an EP2500 I picked up off ebay for $220 after 30% cashback. And the ED eq.2 SSF. My bro is nicknaming this build as "The Tower's of BOOOM". Haha!

I just wanted to post a few pics of the build for anyone interested to follow. I'll try to update as I progress. Sorry they are just lousy cam-phone pics. : \

Thanks for all the help guys!

Mucho bigger than the Fosgate!!






I can't waait she says!

[Mike P.]

Any update?

[Koopa]

Sorry, the holidays have me behind. I do have them stuffed and ported. XLR to RCA cable in the mail. Still Debating on the finishing work.

[a1161979]

Thats looking really good What finishes are you thinking about?

[Koopa]

O man, I've thought several things over last month or so. I found a link once of a guy who used the stone finish spray paint. Looks great, expensive, but great. One idea I thought about adding a top plate slightly wider than the box with the bottom a plate matching and adding some decorative trim under the lip that would be formed.

Lately I've been contemplating sewing a big "sock" out of the speaker cover material and covering the entire thing with it and painting the legs and a base with a glossy black finish.

[Koopa]

Well after a day of doing what I want, instead of what I should, I finished up. Well...as finished as they are going to get unfortunately.

I got everything hooked up and going. One strange thing was I had the ep2500 turned up about 1 o' clock. I figured it should be about 9 'o clock considering I'm bridged at 4 ohm and need around 650 watts to them. I also had to turn the subwoofer output on my receiver all the way up to get good signal to the amp.

Anyway I started tweakin' and playing a sound test cd when I got it tuned in pretty good, when I'll be dad gummed if the glue on the port tubes started giving way. They collapsed inward. No harm done to the drivers thank goodness. I guess I underestimated what was needed to keep them in place. The roughly 25" of 4" PVC including a 90 is pretty heavy. I'm not sure on how to secure it.

Well, live and learn I suppose. I'm probably going to go down and pick up material for sonotubes. I think it will be cheapest way to re-build.

[salvasol]

Koopa wrote:

I started tweakin' and playing a sound test cd when I got it tuned in pretty good, when I'll be dad gummed if the glue on the port tubes started giving way. They collapsed inward. No harm done to the drivers thank goodness. I guess I underestimated what was needed to keep them in place. The roughly 25" of 4" PVC including a 90 is pretty heavy. I'm not sure on how to secure it.

What did you use to glue them??? ...you had problems just with the ports not the box, Right???

Well, live and learn I suppose. I'm probably going to go down and pick up material for sonotubes. I think it will be cheapest way to re-build.

I think sonotube is the easiest way to build a sub (at least for me) ...just finished mine with 18".

Also, I have bad news for you ....after looking at the picture, you'll need bigger speakers too ... .

[Mike P.]

What you have will work if you install a support between the bottom of the elbow and the floor of the cabinet. Once the weight is supported you shouldn't have a problem.

[Koopa]

salvasol wrote:

What did you use to glue them??? ...you had problems just with the ports not the box, Right???

Ya, no problems with the box.
I'm not quite good enough to make a cut in the wood allowing me to inset the PVC. So I opted for thick gorilla glue thinking the foam would create a good wall around the PVC helping support.

What glue do you guys recommend?

Also, I have bad news for you ....after looking at the picture, you'll need bigger speakers too .

Haha!

[salvasol]

Koopa wrote:

What glue do you guys recommend?

I read that epoxy is the best ... and doing what Mike suggest on post #8, and you'll be set

[fredk]

Are you expecting the glue to bond to the pvc? You would need to use a solvent glue that disolves the PVC. I don't know of any glue that would stick to both wood and PVC.

If you have a router and circle cutting jig, you could us a piece of mdf or play and cut holes in it just large enough to press fit the pipe into. Then glue the board to your baffle.

[audionut71]

I second the use of epoxy to glue ports to mdf, I have used it to adhere PVC to MDF many times. Works like a charm. Pretty much any of the little parallel tube stuff at Lowes or HD will work fine.

As to your level setting issue, check out the Rane pro-sound reference site, specifically under decibel.

+4 dBu Standard pro audio voltage reference level equal to 1.23 Vrms.

-10 dBV Standard voltage reference level for consumer and some pro audio use (e.g. TASCAM), equal to 0.316 Vrms. (Tip: RCA connectors are a good indicator of units operating at -10 dBV levels.)

That is why you had to crank the levels up so much. I'm sure that this info on level differences between home and pro gear is addressed somewhere on the Shack, but as you can see from my post count I'm new and have not come across it yet. Hope this helps.

[a1161979]

salvasol wrote:

I have bad news for you ....after looking at the picture, you'll need bigger speakers too ... .

And maybe a bigger TV too Those subs look huge next to the TV and the small speakers

[Koopa]

Thanks for the info audionut71. I'll take a look at that.

I'm definitely upgrading my speakers, and receiver in the near future. Hopefully one day upgrade the 42" plasma. Also, those subs are only there so I can get then in the picture. My plan is one next to the wall on the right and the other in the back of the room somewhere. The wife already stated firmly that they will not stay next to the tv. : )

[myn]

fredk wrote:

I don't know of any glue that would stick to both wood and PVC.

Liquid Nails (project type) works great.

From my build:

[salvasol]

audionut71 wrote:

-10 dBV Standard voltage reference level for consumer and some pro audio use (e.g. TASCAM), equal to 0.316 Vrms. (Tip: RCA connectors are a good indicator of units operating at -10 dBV levels.)

I'm sure that this info on level differences between home and pro gear is addressed somewhere on the Shack,

Yes it has been mentioned before, if your pro-amp has RCA connectors you don't have to worry about the level inputs (that's why I got my Samson) ...if your pro-amp has just 1/4 phone or XLR you need to get a cleanbox to match the levels (here is a sample )

[audionut71]

I second the ART CleanBOX as well (i'm seconding a lot of stuff in this thread). In my last HT setup I was running a Pioneer Reciever and built an RCA to XLR cable only to find out about the level differences. I have a Crown Xs1200 running my sub, and I had to crank the gain on it and max out the LFE level on the reciever and even then I never saw the clip light on the amp! I got the CleanBOX and ran everything at much saner levels (and got my adjustability back).

I hate having anything cranked all the way up, it drives me crazy.

PS you might just check out the classifieds, there are occasionally folks selling CleanBox's there.

[salvasol]

audionut71 wrote:

PS you might just check out the classifieds, there are occasionally folks selling CleanBox's there.

You're right ...there's one cleanbox for sale now ...What I minute: audionut71 found out that audionut71 is selling that??? .

[audionut71]