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| DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported LLT ExplainedDiscuss LLT Explained in the DIY Speakers and Subwoofers forum; LLT Explained WillyD wrote:
I am sorry, but are you saying xmax is an informal standard but Vd is set in stone ... |
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Last edited by davepete; 12-15-06 at 01:02 AM. | ||||||
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| Re: LLT Explained Well, I built an LLT using the 15" TC-2000 and have been very pleased with it so far. Yeah, a 12-13ft^3 MDF enclosure would be pretty **** heavy, which is one of the main reasons I chose to go the sonotube route. Most folks make their own jig to cut the big diameters, but there is a jasper jig available that is capapble of much larger diameters. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5960 | |||
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Will, **** thats huge ![]() If you don't have a BFD for your sub, get one fast! If you don't have REW, get it now! | |||||||
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| Re: LLT Explained Quote:
The problem is as I mentioned, to resolve the issue of a resurgence in port output one must use a smaller enclosure with a lower tune, and this gets away from a successful LLT design. Try making a LLT with a RLp12 D2 - just ain't gonna happen. The RLp15 just makes it. The reason I keep saying that is to make the point that high Bl and low Qts work against a LLT design. | ||||
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| Re: LLT Explained Couldn't answer that as I'm nowhere near qualified to answer that. I haven't kept track of every LLT design built Plus, Its totally irrelevant to my entire post, even the section you're quoting. ![]() Quote:
So I hope that at this point everyone understands why low Qts/high Bl aren't something to look for to use in an Xl-sized Ebs alignment...its been repeated enough times in this thread ![]() Now, Someone build me a large and low tuned Sono for my 1030ft^3 bedroom! ![]() If you don't have a BFD for your sub, get one fast! If you don't have REW, get it now! | ||||
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BTW, what are the particulars on your TC-2000 LLT? I was looking at using the TC2K 15" SVC, going about 13 cu ft with a 13hz tune and three 4" ports. | ||||
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| Re: LLT Explained NP. I used the SVC model as well, and the enclosure is roughly 335liters net, tuned to around 14Hz. I used a single 6" double-flared port from PSP, and I am happy with it. http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c199/wadeere/Sonosub/ Here is the thread that chronicles the entire build. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=725955 Last edited by WillyD; 12-10-06 at 10:39 PM. Reason: ... | |||
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). If some wanted a good LMS driver to use for a LLT, the 4000 would be it aside from its poor sensitivity, so it would be nice if the 4100 was similar with just a more efficient or sensitive motor. | ||||||
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| Re: LLT Explained Ahh, yeah I understand that completely. That was the time when I first started getting into DIY subs...unfortunately. Anyway, I hope the 4100neo proves to be a good LLT contender. It'll be good to have yet another option out there...especially after that dry spell you mention. Its slowly beginning to look better for DIY again. From what I've heard it'll model very similarly to the LMS-5400 which will be a good thing. Can't wait for that rl-p18 either. Its going to be ridiculous. If you don't have a BFD for your sub, get one fast! If you don't have REW, get it now! | |||
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| Re: LLT Explained Steve, Recently, a friend asked me to help assist him in putting together a “budget” home theater setup. Together we decided to start with a subwoofer as our first project. Our budget for the sub is about $400. I have this plate amp on order http://www.apexjr.com/Apexsenior.htm . Side note… this plate is on special until the end of the month for $125. I stumbled upon this thread today (not really had a ton of time to read all the info at AVS) and like what I have read so far. While the RL-P15 and TC2000 15” drivers are a great value and work in an LLT subwoofer, I think the needed power and cost of these drivers blows our budget. Which leads me to my question… is there a 12” option out there suitable for an LLT? Using the T/S recommendations outlined in this thread, would the new CSS SD12 fit the bill http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=SD12 ? How about the new TC DB-500 12”, or even the TC1000 12”? One thing in our favor is the WAF isn’t opposed to a large enclosure aside from the finished product needs to match the existing color/finish of the entertainment wall unit. Which sparks another question… is there any benefit in using a sona tube over an MDF/BB plywood cabinet? I am afraid the cabinet guy is going to have a hard time making a cardboard tube look like painted knotty alder. Thanks, Chris | |||
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| Re: LLT Explained Well I have had a little more time to play around with Unibox and also read more on the web about LLT designs. From what I have been able to gather, the 15” drivers previously mentioned are still the best options. However, I am determined to make a 12” driver work. Of the drivers in the 12” range the CSS SD12 seems to be the best. Here is what I have come up with so far... Will someone please comment on this proposed design? | |||
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| Re: LLT Explained Well you'd want to avoid the resurgence in output, you want a smooth, shallow rolloff prior to the 4th order rolloff below tuning. Without modeling this driver, I just don't think a 12" will really be suitable without giving up too much in the more usable bass ranges. Larger drivers "get away with it" because the headroom is already typically more than enough in higher bass frequencies, so some efficiency is shifted down low. I'd go a little smaller, raise the tuning to ~19-20hz, use the 18hz highpass in the plate amp, and end up with a nice subwoofer ![]() | |||
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| Re: LLT Explained Steve, Thanks for your reply… Your right! I have had a very difficult time getting a 12” driver to work. In the end I really want to avoid doing another boring sealed sub. I was also hoping an LLT sub could cure me of my "ported is bad" stigma. It’s beginning to look like maybe this isn’t the project to go LLT on. Well either way my interest is perked and hopefully sometime in the future I will be able to experience the LLT subwoofer. Before I completely abandon the idea, do you mind taking a look at the CSS SD12? I did as you suggested and changed the volume and tuning frequency (120 liters, 19 Hz, 5” port 31” long) I know this configuration doesn’t provide the desired roll off, but it is next to impossiable to get the desired roll off without generating very low port resonance. Please take a look at the attached graph and let me know if the CSS SD12 is really worth porting. Here are the driver specs from Creative Sound’s website. Re: 3.6, Le:1.45, Fs: 23.3, Qms: 2.87, Qes: 0.447, Qts: 0.387, Vas: 83.3, Cms: 0.25, SD: 490, Xmax 19.5, Xmech: 32, BL: 14.6, Mms: 186.4, SPL: 85.6. Thanks again for your imput. | |||
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| Re: LLT Explained To give you an idea of what something close to a LLT would be like with this driver, I'd go 140 effective liters with a 4" diameter port that is 25" long being fed with ~400 watts. Unfortunately, this still wouldn't meet the criteria, and such a design has port chuffing issues and might not achieve "enough" headroom. What I would aim for is something like 150 effective liters with a 5" diameter port (if possible) that is 24" long being fed with ~600 watts and using a 17hz 2nd order highpass. Is it guilty of the majority of traditional ported subwoofer issues? Yeah, but hey, considering it's a 12" driver, overall performance looks pretty good. | |||
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| Re: LLT Explained Your suggestions/info confirmed the same issues I was running into too. The 140 liter option will suffer port noise at about 100 watts and even the 150 liter, 5” X 24” port suggestion runs into port chuffing around 200 watts (provided my sims are accurate). Again, thanks so much for your help. Even though I will most likely end up building a sealed sub, unless I can convince my friend to spend more money on a larger driver, this has been a good learning experience. I am beginning to questions my own current stereo subs and think maybe an LLT TC2000 is in order. I have a pro amp that is about 1100 watts bridged into 4 ohms... ![]() | |||
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