Input needed (Dayton RSS315HF-4 12" sub)

[haydenx]

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I'm in the process of building a powered sub for my system.I am more of a music lover but watch a few movies once in a while. I whant the sub to be just as good for movies as it is for music.


After some research I came up with the decision to use the Dayton RSS315HF-4 Driver and the Oaudio 500w BASH Subwoofer Amplifier.

I used WINISD Alpha to simulate a design and after different designs I decieded to use a 4.525 ft3 ported enclosure and a box tuning of 20.48 HZ using a 4"X14.77 double flared precision port.Tripple internal brace and port/driver displacement compensated for.Any reccomemdation will be appreciated

[WillyD]

Good choice of driver!

And that amp is a good one, but its not exactly necessary. The subsonic filter has a bit of boost to it.
I like the 350W amp here, which has a changeable subsonic filter (the 20Hz Q=.6 setting would be good).
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/amplifiers.html

Or even the 300W amp at Oaudio.

But 4.5ft^3 and the precision port are good to go with!

[haydenx]

which is the better of the two amps?

[warnerwh]

Very many people here use Pro Audio amps like the Behringer 2500. It has lots of power and is under 300 bucks. Only downside is a noisy fan but that's a cheap and easy fix. Considering the price it's a steal. Another thing I like is that it's not mounted to our bad *** subwoofer.

If I were you I'd use the 15" RS 390HiFi and you really need 2. You get far more for your money. Any subwoofer that is to do any HT duty needs to be at least a 15" serious duty type. I say this because I just built a single driver sub with the RL-P 15". It is "adequate". I mean it does it's job, shakes the entire house and scares you and moves you.

Our living room is only 12x20 opening into our dining room. If you have a large space that means more driver and power.

I read in another thread TC Sounds still has a 12" driver with 20mm Xmax.

The 12" RS driver is an excellent driver however I feel that driver is inadequate for the job big time.

[brent_s]

Haydenx, you might want to consider a smaller box or lower tune to get more roll off on the bottom end. My model says your proposed alignment will be about 1.5db down at 20hz with an f3 at 18hz. However, s/w models assume no room gain. Depending on room placement, I've measured 6-10db of gain at 20hz in my 24x16x9 dedicated room as compared to the models. With your alignment, I'd essentially have a 10db peak at 20hz that probably starts rising further up in the 30s somewhere. That type of boost may be something you prefer, but many would consider it a bloated sounding bottom end.

Is your residential construction the poured concrete or concrete block like I observed in St. Lucia? If so, I would expect it to more efficiently reinforce gain than standard US drywall construction.

Food for thought.

-Brent