tc sounds lms-4000 enclosure critique

**avaserfi** · **03-20-08, 09:08 AM**

I strongly suggest the EP2500 it is a very affordable amp that is built extremely well even when amps in far exceeding pricing brackets. You can see the internal pictures of mine here.

If you are planning on doing fan swap that would cost another 10 dollars, but is an extremely easy procedure.

**SteveCallas** · **03-21-08, 03:35 PM**

Why are you tuning so low with a 12" driver? I read the part where you said spl isn't a driving factor, but everytime I hear someone say that, I always see them starting a new thread 6 months later talking about needing to build a second sub or multiple driver IB because they aren't getting enough output.

**ringbearer3791** · **03-23-08, 01:52 PM**

well, like i said, spl isn't my driving desire on this project, but looking at the modeling, i'm still looking at roughly 108 dB flat across the audible band down into the 20's. that's using 500 watts for power, which i can turn up at the ep2500 if i find it is a little low. this 12" is a little unusual in comparison to most as it is completely linear to 30+ mm one-way, allowing for a lower linear tune than some others. thanks.

**ringbearer3791** · **05-08-08, 08:30 AM**

Well, I'm finally ready to start this project. I'm looking at about 7.3 cu.ft. tuned to about 13 Hz. I'm going to go ahead and take the advice offered and do a slot port. I'm actually planning on using one similar to that suggested in the "easy button" thread but it will end up exiting downward as i've opted to turn this into a down-firing sub. The WAF is somewhat in effect, she's perfectly willing to let me build this thing as long as I can make it look like a piece of furniture, so it will be a rather large end table. I've bought all of the MDF and have compiled all of the necessary tools (minus a biscuit joiner that i'll have to borrow) so I'm planning on cutting wood w/i the next day or so. Any last suggestions or comments before I throw myself into this?

Thanks.

**Mike P.** · **05-08-08, 02:13 PM**

Sounds like you have a plan. Don't forget to take some build pics. I'm looking forward to them!

**ringbearer3791** · **05-08-08, 02:22 PM**

Thanks Mike, will do. Btw, do you know how to pull pix out of winisd and google sketch? I've got a pic in google of the box i'm planning on and would like to be able to post it but haven't been able to figure out how to turn it into a gif or jpeg or anything.

**Blaser** · **05-11-08, 01:51 PM**

Take a printscreen and use paint to edit as you like. Then save as Jpeg for ex and upload

**ringbearer3791** · **05-12-08, 06:48 AM**

Thanks Blaser. I think I've attached a couple of pictures of the box design and the winisd projection for response. I got all of the MDF cut this weekend so now I'm on to hole cutting and assembly. I'll be taking pictures as I go and posting them as I can.

**Blaser** · **05-12-08, 08:33 AM**

FR roll off above 60 Hz is kina weird

Are you sure you entered all parameters correctly?

**ringbearer3791** · **05-12-08, 08:40 AM**

Yeah, that roll-off is due to a LPF at 80 Hz I put into the simulator just to take a look at what a filter would do. Without that in place it's pretty much a straight line from 40 Hz on up.

**Blaser** · **05-12-08, 09:05 AM**

I feel better

**ringbearer3791** · **05-12-08, 09:08 AM**

Thanks for the concern. Lord knows I'd rather get input now before I've put all the time into building this thing than wait and find out after I'm done that it sucks.

**ringbearer3791** · **05-18-08, 06:41 PM**

(some) progress! all of the mdf is now cut and ready to go. my new biscuit joiner should be here tomorrow so that means that I can begin getting everything glued together. more pictures to follow.

**Blaser** · **05-19-08, 08:19 PM**

Looks very promissing Josh!

**ringbearer3791** · **05-20-08, 06:57 AM**

Thanks Ahmed. My biscuit joiner arrived yesterday so I'm hoping that I'll get to do some routing and joining over the next couple of days. Finding time after the baby's asleep at night or on the weekends has been a challenge but I'm hoping that I can get this thing put together pretty soon, then the challenge will just be to get it out of the basement and into the family room for some listening tests. I expect this thing is going to weigh somewhere on the order of 200 lbs.

**ringbearer3791** · **06-03-08, 01:34 PM**

well, all is going well so far. holes cut for the baffle and the braces. hurrah for the jasper jig, it's pretty much impossible to screw up the holes using that thing. I've got pictures of the build in progress but i've still got to get them off the camera and on the computer.

as this thing is starting to come together and I've been looking at amps, i realized that the ep 2500 only has xlr and trs connections for inputs. is there an rca adapter someone could recommend out there to convert my lfe signal from the receiver to one of these formats? it looks like there's one on PE but figured I'd ask since there are lots of people on here who love this amp and have presumedly done the same thing.

thanks.

Josh

**ringbearer3791** · **06-16-08, 07:58 AM**

ok, no responses on the question of xlr/trs to rca converters so i'm going to assume that the one listed at PE will do. I have another question. Looking at the mounting bolts that came with the driver, i realized that the bolts don't have any mounting nuts so it looks like i'm going to need to order a set. i've seen hurricane nuts and the like, anyone have suggestions about what's best to use? thanks.

**eyekode** · **06-16-08, 09:59 PM**

The converters may work electrically, but they will not match signal level. Pro-audio levels are higher then consumer audio. There has been lots of discussion on this but fortunately for me I have not had to deal with it

.

As for the nuts, it depends on how often you plan on removing the speaker. Some people complain about the hurricane nuts not working great in MDF. I ordered them once, but ended up just using drywall screws because screw heads stick-out less than bolts. I think any coarse threaded screw would work well.

**Blaser** · **06-17-08, 04:30 PM**

Any T-nuts will be better than the standard bolts that come with the sub

**eyekode** · **06-17-08, 09:01 PM**

My point was that T-nuts may not be desirable in MDF. Any coarse thread screw works well. The only time I would go with the T-nut is if I planned on removing the driver more then say... 5 times

.

**Mike P.** · **06-17-08, 09:20 PM**

I had a T-nut strip out of MDF once. Since then I've built 9 subs with a 1 1/2 inch square of 1/4 inch plywood glued to the MDF first. After mounting the T-nuts I applied hot glue around the perimeter. Haven't had a problem since. Second and third picture of my IXL-18 build.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...8-4-build.html

**ringbearer3791** · **06-20-08, 07:42 AM**

Thanks guys, with the driver downfiring I was a little concerned about making sure the bolts would hold, it would be a bad day if I came home to find the driver sitting on the floor under the enclosure!

**thxgoon** · **06-20-08, 11:42 AM**

Quote:

ringbearer3791 wrote:

ok, no responses on the question of xlr/trs to rca converters so i'm going to assume that the one listed at PE will do.

Just a cheap old RCA to XLR or RCA to 1/4" that you would find at radio shack or home depot should do the trick. You may run into problems with signal levels but I think this is very rare. You can use the gains on the front of the amp as well as the levels in your receiver.

**ringbearer3791** · **06-20-08, 11:48 AM**

Thanks thxgoon. Now if i can just keep life from getting in the way maybe i'll actually finish getting this thing built!

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