Shiva-X 200L (~7 ft^3) build thread

**favelle** · **11-06-09, 05:02 AM**

The portside endcaps that go IN the sonotube were dry today, so I fit them onto the port. The final endcap that resides outside the sonotube will be fit on to the exposed port and then glued to the other endcaps as soon as I sand and paint it. I figured that would be easier to do separately. Same with the driver endcaps....

And sealing the other side. I like this caulking because it cures clear. So that way you know when its dry.

This caulking also feels quite viscous. After applying, it makes a great seal just by running your finger along it.

**Mike P.** · **11-06-09, 05:19 AM**

Looking at the tube height of the sub, it appears it is tall enough to cause a resonance issue at about 105 hz. This can be dealt with by packing in 4-6 inches of fiberglass insulation on the inside of the top cap. Make sure it's well secured, you don't want it to eventually fall down and cover the sub.

**favelle** · **11-06-09, 05:25 AM**

Quote:

Mike P. wrote:

Looking at the tube height of the sub, it appears it is tall enough to cause a resonance issue at about 105 hz. This can be dealt with by packing in 4-6 inches of fiberglass insulation on the inside of the top cap. Make sure it's well secured, you don't want it to eventually fall down and cover the sub.

I was thinking actually about screwing it down with giant washers or something.....

Will this even produce 105hz? The guy's receiver is set for an 80hz crossover...

**Mike P.** · **11-06-09, 06:13 AM**

80 hz isn't a brick wall, there will still be output at 100 hz.

**favelle** · **11-06-09, 06:17 AM**

Quote:

Mike P. wrote:

80 hz isn't a brick wall, there will still be output at 100 hz.

Good to know.....

**Mike P.** · **11-06-09, 06:31 AM**

Quote:

I was thinking actually about screwing it down with giant washers or something.....

Cover it with some window screen first.

**favelle** · **11-06-09, 07:04 AM**

Quote:

Mike P. wrote:

Cover it with some window screen first.

Like the nylon mesh-type stuff? I got loads of that sitting around here as well....

**Mike P.** · **11-06-09, 11:07 AM**

That will do fine.

**favelle** · **11-06-09, 01:22 PM**

Quote:

Mike P. wrote:

That will do fine.

...even easier way to attach it.....use the port. I'm wrapping the port anyways. Well just add more layers to the top 6 inches until it hits the sides of the sonotube! Tie it with string or whatever...it shouldn't move.

**favelle** · **11-06-09, 09:20 PM**

Got a lot done today. Assembled the final endcap on to the port-side assembly. Sealed around the edges with caulking...starting to take shape.

Also managed to piece together the driver side endcaps. These circles are ridiculously round for being hanf-cut with a jig saw. Broke my flute-bit for my router and I figured I had a steady enough hand.....more dumb luck than anything. With the sanding, these are basically perfectly round to the naked eye:

Also sealed the whole inside with caulking. I figured this would make a nice natural gasket when its fully-dried....no chances of any air leaks from what I can see! Should be ready for final sanding on Sunday and then maybe some painting!

**favelle** · **11-06-09, 09:24 PM**

Also cut and sanded the driver protection base plate. Attached the legs and this should also be good for painting this Sunday!

Here with the legs just standing in place:

Screwed them in and counter-sunk the screws on the other side. That's the side that will be on the floor, and it will also have a big felt pad cut out and stuck to it.

**favelle** · **11-06-09, 09:41 PM**

Two questions:

1) For the dampening material, I see people use egg-crate mattress. Does it have to have those bumps on it? Do they serve a purpose? I have foamy mattress made from the EXACT same material, but its smooth. Is that ok?

2) For wiring the Shiva-X driver to the binding posts, can I use 16AWG wire? Its only going to be 9 inches in length, is this ok?

**Mike P.** · **11-06-09, 09:59 PM**

1. Not for the top end cap. You'll need fiberglass insulation that been packed down so it's 4-6 inches thick. You can use the foam mattress pad to line the sides as long as it's open cell foam.

2. 16 gauge seems a little light to me. I wouldn't go smaller then 12 gauge.

**favelle** · **11-06-09, 10:11 PM**

Quote:

Mike P. wrote:

1. Not for the top end cap. You'll need fiberglass insulation that been packed down so it's 4-6 inches thick. You can use the foam mattress pad to line the sides as long as it's open cell foam.

2. 16 gauge seems a little light to me. I wouldn't go smaller then 12 gauge.

Can I use 12/2 electricians wire, or does it have to be special speaker wire only?

**fackamato** · **11-07-09, 12:39 PM**

Quote:

favelle wrote:

Can I use 12/2 electricians wire, or does it have to be special speaker wire only?

Copper wire is copper wire

**favelle** · **11-07-09, 04:21 PM**

Quote:

fackamato wrote:

Copper wire is copper wire

But what about the shielding? Won't that affect anything?

**fackamato** · **11-07-09, 05:06 PM**

Quote:

favelle wrote:

But what about the shielding? Won't that affect anything?

Do you mean shielding as in external interference on the signal, or as in physically protecting the cable? If it's the first, that doesn't apply (practically) to speaker wire in my opinion. Unless you're having your speaker wires run alongside your mains that is.

**favelle** · **11-07-09, 05:11 PM**

Quote:

fackamato wrote:

Do you mean shielding as in external interference on the signal, or as in physically protecting the cable? If it's the first, that doesn't apply (practically) to speaker wire in my opinion. Unless you're having your speaker wires run alongside your mains that is.

Cool. Got some 12/2 braided.

**favelle** · **11-07-09, 09:02 PM**

Starting to add the dampening material. Covered the port first:

**favelle** · **11-07-09, 09:07 PM**

Dry fit of the sonotube.....looks good! Nice fit. Stays in place without any adhesive too because it wants to be flat so it pushes itself outwards.

Got all 3 pieces secured, glued, and in place:

Inside the tube.....I must say, if I ever make another sonosub over 5 feet, I'll go to a larger diameter. It was simply WAY too much hassle to try and get the middle piece in.

**favelle** · **11-07-09, 10:32 PM**

Here's the other side (port side). This allows for the endcaps plus an extra 5 inches of dampening material that will be thick enough to go right out to the port.

**favelle** · **11-07-09, 10:34 PM**

Here's the beast, thanks to Danielson from Kelowna!

And all wired up. I hope this is correct...if not, please chime in!!!!! Man it was hard to get TWO 12AWG wires through the binding post holes....

**favelle** · **11-08-09, 05:23 PM**

Anyone? Just want to make sure I wired this for 4ohms properly....

**Regnar2** · **11-08-09, 06:03 PM**

You have it wired in parallel so you have a 1ohm load there. You will need to wire it in series to be able to achieve a 4 ohm load. Lets see if I have enough post yet. Here is a link to a wiring diagram.

**Regnar2** · **11-08-09, 06:04 PM**

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...s.asp?Q=1&I=22

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