Home Theater Systems - Electronics and Forum - HomeTheaterShack - DIY Subwoofers http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/ DIY Subwoofers in the general do-it-yourself subwoofer forum where you can discuss and determine which DIY Subwoofer design is right for you. In this forum you will find custom DIY subwoofer modeling design software links and guides, as well as tips on design, what tools to use and information on what subwoofer amps perform best. This is also where you will find the Members DIY Subwoofer Database that lists all of our member DIY Subwoofer Build Projects. Moderators: Mike P., Ricci, StereoClarity en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:11:07 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg Home Theater Systems - Electronics and Forum - HomeTheaterShack - DIY Subwoofers http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/ dumb question http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/23013-dumb-question.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:54:32 GMT I am hoping you guys can help me out, I am just in the process of building a CSS trio 12 sonotube and I have a few... I am hoping you guys can help me out,

I am just in the process of building a CSS trio 12 sonotube and I have a few options for power

Onkyo 705 sub out to......

one channel of my Rotel RMB 1075 (200wpc 4 ohm|) or,

Harrison XI600 pro amp (specs are hard to find 600 wpc 4 ohm i believe)

then to the sub
any suggestions or problems??

I have tried to reseach line levels but I am not having any luck ]]> DIY Subwoofers knobert http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/23013-dumb-question.html Assistance w first build please http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/23000-assistance-w-first-build-please.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 01:04:05 GMT I've been looking for different kits to use and have finally narrowed it down to the following specs:

Driver: Peerless SLS 10" No. P830668
Alignment: Closed at 42 - 60 liters
Amplifier: Zachry DSW-150


Any thoughts would be great! I was wondering though if the amplifier is big enough. It seems too small to me 70W at 8 Ohms. I was also wondering what volume would be best given the range I am deciding between.

Thanks in advance! ]]> DIY Subwoofers HunterCottage http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/23000-assistance-w-first-build-please.html WAF mods for my Subwoofers power plant (Behringer EP) http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22992-waf-mods-my-subwoofers-power-plant-behringer-ep.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:11:32 GMT Ok, my wife wasn't too keen on the Berhinger amp sitting with the other components. She let me have the list in one long sentence with out a breath. It basically went "Ok, I dont like the signal indicators "winking" at me during movies, the super bright green pilot light, It looks very "industrial", and the fact that it sounds like a stupid leaf blower.


Here are my mods, I would like your thoughts folks.

So.... I:
1. Made a new face plate for it out of red cocobolo Wood, stainless, and a Blue LED. I installed it on the rack mount tabs so the face of the Behringer and its controls wouldn't have to be modified. And this also left enough room for the cooling fan air intake.

2. I replaced the on switch with a 12vlt DC x 15amp 125vlt AC relay and installed a 3.5mm mono jack. This so my Anthem could use its triggers to automatic turn it on during power up in using its delayed sequence. So all my wife has to do it power on the processor now and ACTION!

3. Built and installed a voltage divider circuit & fan control so I could run a 14dB 32cfm 12vlt PC fan. I did reverse the fan too to bring the cool air in through the front. This is plenty of air to keep things cool for movies but the amp starts getting d@rn hot with music at Night Club loud volumes.

4. Installed a Blue LED pilot light on the fan circuit that lets me know the fan is running and to match my Anthems amps blue "On" light. I had to install a resistor pack to be able to put the 3.5vlt LED on the fan circuit so also installed a small pot as a dimmer to change the brightness.

5. And I forgot. I added some really nice feet to spice the looks up a bit.

And here are some quick pics I snapped last night. The flash makes everything look so I will have to take better pics during the day. Sorry, these pics are much cr@ppier than I thought they were



Here is what the front plate looks like installed.






Here you can see all of the Behringer controls are intact and how much space the fan has to draw in Air.





Here is a top pic so you can see the added boards, relay, and mods done. I hope this pic is better




And pics f how it looks sitting there. Yeah amps and processor all sit on top for cooling purposes. The PS3, Xbox, and Krell Showcase DVD/CD all sit in the cabinet below. Doesnt looks the best but it keeps the WAF high in my house. Hence why the Behringer mods were needed.

The center channel is there only temporarily until we can agree on a component rack we both like.





]]> DIY Subwoofers KDspiv http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22992-waf-mods-my-subwoofers-power-plant-behringer-ep.html 2X eD16O Sonotubes http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22979-2x-ed16o-sonotubes.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:31:21 GMT So, I have almost completed my new sonotube build. 192L or 6.8 cubic feet tuned to 18hz. Image:... So, I have almost completed my new sonotube build. 192L or 6.8 cubic feet tuned to 18hz.



Here was after some router work. I was getting the holes lined up for the T-nuts. Oh, and the chairs were not going anywhere, they are anchored.



Painted and legs.



Port tube. 6" PVC.


Almost there.


Here is my setup with my brand new 50" G15!. You can see the sub they are replacing. The build for the Rockford Fosgate is in the Database.


Here is where they will be placed.



I will be covering the the tube in black grill cloth. I rapped them just to get a look and believe they will look nice. I also need to build a vent cover. The paint is simply Krylon flat black to match the eD speakers. As for the sound....WOW. I am stepping up from a Fosgate taking 200 watt and hitting, I think it was, around 104db@20hz according to WINisd. These things are closer to 112db@20hz each powered by a EP-2500 bridged @4ohm. The power is only the beginning though. I have not had time to really tune them in but, the quality is leaps and bounds ahead. Absolutely smooth! The Fosgate is getting to where there is tons of driver noise. It just sounds sloppy.

I am hoping to learn REW and get some measurements to show one day but, at the moment don't have time. ]]> DIY Subwoofers Koopa http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22979-2x-ed16o-sonotubes.html First build - Disappointing sound http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22976-first-build-disappointing-sound.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 09:34:35 GMT Its a 50L Twin Passive Radiator Sub with Peerless driver and O-Audio 300W amp. Here is a link to my build information: ... Its a 50L Twin Passive Radiator Sub with Peerless driver and O-Audio 300W amp. Here is a link to my build information:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...opy-build.html

At this current stage, all of the compoents are mounted in my sealed box. Currently the lid isnt attached but for testing I placed the lid on top and put a weight on it to get a decent seal. I then hooked the amplifer input up to my laptop with an RCA cable and played some bass heavy songs. I used the default amp settings, low-mid volume, 80Hz crossover, etc.

However, the sound wasnt great. There was decent enough bass, but there seemed to be a lot of extra noise made by the driver cone itself vibrating to produce the sound. With my bose speaker, all you heard was the solid bass sound, but this also has a sound a bit like flicking a tentioned elastic band. The speaker is secured well to the bass box, so what could be causing it?

The following things still have to be done in order for the speaker to be properly finished:

1. Glue the top on properly
2. Add 300g weight to each of the peerless passives
3. Add fiber baffeling

Can anyone give me some help please? ]]> DIY Subwoofers Spadez http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22976-first-build-disappointing-sound.html O-Audio Plate Amp - Silver and Gold Wires! http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22965-o-audio-plate-amp-silver-gold-wires.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 20:55:27 GMT Hi, I setup my speaker, just about to wire it up and listen to it for the first time but.... The wires coming out of... Hi,

I setup my speaker, just about to wire it up and listen to it for the first time but....

The wires coming out of the o-audio 300W amp are silver and gold that are meant to go to the speaker. Which out of these two are positive? I need to know the polarity so I can wire up the speaker. The wire doesnt have + / - markings on it. ]]> DIY Subwoofers Spadez http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22965-o-audio-plate-amp-silver-gold-wires.html another Noob with Sub question..First build.Ht/music http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22963-another-noob-sub-question-first-build-ht-music.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 20:20:44 GMT I am looking to build a Home theater Sub, I just want to copy an existing plan. I live in 3/2 house so size is an issue.... I am looking to build a Home theater Sub, I just want to copy an existing plan. I live in 3/2 house so size is an issue. It will be 80 % home theater use. 20 % music.

I am looking to use a 10inch Sub with a 250 amp plate. Can someone point me to a good design to use. My budget is about 400$.

I am trying to find a design maybe for that peerless XLS 10. Thoughts ?

Thanks
Chris ]]> DIY Subwoofers fschris http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22963-another-noob-sub-question-first-build-ht-music.html HUGE warehouse running a ported sub http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22954-huge-warehouse-running-ported-sub.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 04:41:42 GMT this warehouse has an 18" Maelstrom-X mounted in the center divider. 12000 square feet on either side. super-insulated, as there are chemicals and elements inside that need protection from the outside. why do they have a subwoofer in such a place? I don't know!

The weird thing is, this 30 foot wall has the driver on 1 side, and a 14" port on the other side.... so this wall divides a total of 24,000 cubic feet.... and there is a sub and port mounted in the middle.

Is this a ported alignment? series tuned 6th order? ]]> DIY Subwoofers Ryan Anderson http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22954-huge-warehouse-running-ported-sub.html Sealed Sonotubes - How to fill with pollyfill and calculations http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22921-sealed-sonotubes-how-fill-pollyfill-calculations.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 03:29:20 GMT I am looking to extend the extension of my dual stacked 6'cu 19ov.02 sealed sonosubs.

I really don't want to disassemble them and add poly fill unless it is worth it so that leaves me with 2-3 questions:

1. Can pollyfill rest on the back of a woofer on a downward firing sono?
2. How much further will pollyfill extend the extension?
3. is it "worth it"?

Note: If it helps they get about 650w each if anyone knows how to run the numbers. I can also boost the low end up to 6db as low as 20hz ]]> DIY Subwoofers goonstopher http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22921-sealed-sonotubes-how-fill-pollyfill-calculations.html <![CDATA[Looking for opinions on the best 18" drivers available.]]> http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22882-looking-opinions-best-18-drivers-available.html Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:00:21 GMT I've been quite happy with my stacked subs in my avatar which are SoundSplinter's RLP 15s with 4 passive radiators in each cabinet. They make the curtains dance, but I'm looking for another project. :hsd:

I am going to sell these and build an even bigger sub and have been out of the loop for a while with the new 18" drivers that may be out there now. I like Soundsplinter's products and Mike's fantastic service, but I want to compare some other products. I would prefer to stay sealed to eliminate port noises, and not have the additional grand tied up in passive radiators. The LLT may be more of a challenge that I want to take on.

I have two QSC 1450 amps briged to mono for 1450 watts to each cabinet and use the Reckhorn B-1 for my gains and filters. I could put two 18s in one cabinet and hit each woofer with it's own amp.

I'm open to suggestions.:spend:

Thanks in advance,
Mike ]]> DIY Subwoofers Mike Cason http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22882-looking-opinions-best-18-drivers-available.html DIY sub noob....performance qustions http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22870-diy-sub-noob-performance-qustions.html Sat, 14 Nov 2009 01:08:10 GMT I want to build a pair of subs for my living room/Movie room but am stuck on the design part. I am still unsure about what... I want to build a pair of subs for my living room/Movie room but am stuck on the design part. I am still unsure about what I want to build but have a few ideas floating around.

Here are my questions:
1st. Is there any performance advantage in going with a sealed Sonotube vs cube box design?

2nd. What about a Sonotube that uses a wider tube, which would allow for a shorter profile? say 36 w x 24" h.

My goal is make a couple of end tables out of these subs for the WAF. That is what brings up the comparison and height questions.

I will probably use something from the Exodus Audio line for the sub, which one would be dependent on what design I go with.

These would used for 98% Movie and 2% Music and my room is 1738 ft³ but opens up to the kitchen and hall, so a total of 3764 ft³. (If you need this.)

Thanks for your help!
Joe ]]> DIY Subwoofers musikpirate http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22870-diy-sub-noob-performance-qustions.html <![CDATA[IT'S A GO! 4 21" Maelstrom-X's ported @ 15Hz or 3 DTS10 Super Spuds stacked..walled?]]> http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22840-its-go-4-21-maelstrom-xs-ported-15hz-3-dts10-super-spuds-stacked-walled.html Fri, 13 Nov 2009 05:39:50 GMT After all the talk, it is a go! I got finances lined up, just gotta dot T's and cross I's! hahaha..something like that.

So do I:

a: wall 4 21" Maelstrom-X's or
b: wall 3 DTS10 Super Spuds?


That's just for the car!


For my home, 2 21" Maelstom-X's each in 128 cubes tuned to 15Hz with a 16" or an 18" port, or, 2 or 4 Spuds? ]]> DIY Subwoofers Ryan Anderson http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22840-its-go-4-21-maelstrom-xs-ported-15hz-3-dts10-super-spuds-stacked-walled.html Sub selection for an odd setup http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22834-sub-selection-odd-setup.html Fri, 13 Nov 2009 02:03:40 GMT So my friend is a design student and graduating. he has to do a senior studio project and chose some speakers. I am in... So my friend is a design student and graduating. he has to do a senior studio project and chose some speakers. I am in charge of choosing the sub and giving him the requirements for space and what not to develop around.

His budget per sub is ~$100, he will be getting the Bash 300 watt plate amp. There will be 2 10" subs, one in each tower. Bottom firing with a port firing towards the listener (port optional depending on sub). the enclosure is relatively between 1.2-1.75 cuft in space.

I have been looking for a good driver in that price range and have come up with this:

RE Audio SRX 10

Now i dont expect to have you guys list off a ton of suggestions or anything. just if there is something that looks better spec wise then this guy. These look like a pretty good deal.

10"
Electrical Q Value -Qes: 0.39
Mechanical Q Value -Qms: 5.5
Total Speaker Q Value -Qts: 0.36
Free Air Resonance -Fs: 25.3 Hz
Equivalent Compliance -Vas: 31 liters
One-Way, Linear Excursion -Xmax: 18 mm
Efficiency -SPL 1W/1m: 85.3 dB SPL
Effective Piston Area -Sd: 310 cm^2
DC Resistance -Re: 1.8 ohm
Nominal Impedance -Znom: Dual 2/4 ohm
Thermal Power Handling -Pe: 300 W
Force Factor -Bl: 14.35

http://cgi.ebay.com/PAIR-RE-AUDIO-SR...item45ee4eac2b ]]> DIY Subwoofers ccdoggy http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22834-sub-selection-odd-setup.html Does a little AIR matter? http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22798-does-little-air-matter.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 00:11:57 GMT OK shacksters. I DIY'd my 315HF-4 Dayton 12" driver. The box is ABSOLUTELY perfect, except for the fact that me and the guy building it got lazy, and drilled holes in the back to feed wires through. On louder volumes, I can feel the air coming out and hitting my face near the holes. In the higher range.. 80-90hz, I can hear some sort of 'resonating' or maybe its actually soundwaves escaping from the back of the sub. It sounds a bit funky. So should I get speaker terminals? or just apply silicone to the holes and seal them that way? thanks for the help guys. ]]> DIY Subwoofers w00b http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22798-does-little-air-matter.html WinISD EQ boost modelling and associated amplifier requirements. http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22796-winisd-eq-boost-modelling-associated-amplifier-requirements.html Wed, 11 Nov 2009 23:23:30 GMT I would like to know more about the amplifier requirements caused by EQ and how to model this in WinISD. In another... I would like to know more about the amplifier requirements caused by EQ and how to model this in WinISD.

In another thread I came across this regarding WinISD and EQ:

Quote:
DrWho wrote: (Post 205358)
The real power handling requirements actually shows up on the VA plot...
It was my understanding that to correctly model EQ power requirements in WinISD, you utilise the fact that for every 3dB increase, twice the power is required. Hence for every 3dB of EQ boost you would halve the signal power you enter into WinISD. (E.g. For 500w and 6dB EQ boost you would enter 125w.)

I've never fully understood exactly how the VA plot relates to amplifier requirements. The VA represents the "apparent load" not the "real load". As I understand it, the "apparent load" can never be less than the "real load". I'm assuming you can calculate the "real load" utilising the impedance phase. :nerd:
To put this in practical questions assuming:
  • I have an amp that is capable of 500w RMS.
  • I boost 6dB with an SOS high pass filter.
  • Specifying 125w RMS as the source input in WinISD, the VA plot peaks at 278VA
  • The impedance phase is +42 degrees at the VA peak.

Questions:
  1. Is 278VA really the limit of my amp here? Or would the limit be 500VA?
  2. Or would it be higher than 500VA because of the Impedance Phase since it is only the "apparent load"? So with a +42 degree impedance angle, this would be 672VA [500*(1/Cos(42))]?
  3. Or is all this irrelevant since the amp is actually voltage limited? Hence why 500w was dropped to 125w since the voltage will be a quarter.

The ultimate reason for all these questions is that the answers will significantly effect what HPF cutoff to use when modelling. I probably just don't get it... :scratch:

It would be nice to know how to understand how WinISD works in this area as it is a bit unintuitive.
Can anyone shine any light on this? ]]> DIY Subwoofers MarkDN http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/22796-winisd-eq-boost-modelling-associated-amplifier-requirements.html