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Carada, Da-Lite, Elite, Seymour AV And Stewart Screen Material Test Results

umr — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:44:26 GMT

The following report contains test results for various materials from Carada, Da-Lite, Elite Screens, Seymour AV and Stewart.

Attachments

AccuCal Front Projection Screen Report.pdf (151.2 KB)

part number for Jo-anns BOC for screen?

chopperguy99 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:44:07 GMT

Is there a part number? Just want to get the right stuff the first time. thanks!

In Need Of Screen Ideas for Paintable Screen

propilot2k4 — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:48:59 GMT

Hi all!

I'm new to posting to the forum, but have been using all of the great info on here for two screens that I built in the past. By the way, thanks for all of the info on laminate screens and painted screens.

I need to build a screen that is approx. 6ftx9ft. I just moved to a new rental house and I don't want to skim the over the textured walls to paint the screen on the wall. I can only mount the projector on the rear wall, so I can't make the projected image any smaller.

I use to have a 5ftx8ft WA FG laminate screen (which is for sale if you live in the DFW area) that worked good and was simple to hang. Laminate would be perfect if I could get it larger than 5ft. The last screen that I had was a 6ftx9ft Black Widow Painted Wall which was perfect.

I want to go with a Black Widow painted screen but I don't know what I can use that is 6x9. I thought about hanging drywall over the existing wall with 1x2's, but I think dry wall will be too heavy. I thought about building a frame and piecing hardboard together on it, then use drywall tape and compound to cover the seams. I don't know if the drywall mud would warp the boards or if the mud would even stick to the wood.

I've also thought about building a frame, piece together hardboard on it, spray it with adhesive, cover it with a 1 piece canvas cloth and then paint it.

I would appreciate if anyone could help me.

Thank You.

building a parabolic (curved) HT screen

Txgrizzly — Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:06:11 GMT

Are there any links on someone building a curved screen and how to do it. i am looking to build a screen out of blackout cloth and i am toying with the idea of making it a curved screen as i have heard it helps the sharpness of the image at the edge of the screen and also helps the gain. is this correct? the screen size is going to about 115" diagonally and about 17' for the projector... would a screen this size benefit from being curved? :dontknow:

AUSSIE looking for diy screen paint

bl4s7er — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 13:37:45 GMT

After a full week of research i feel like my head is going to explode!

Im hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. 1st off i was just going to buy a screen, but believe i can get much better results from DIY, anyhow nearly everything in my theater so far (speakers, sub, surrounds) is DIY so it makes sense to continue the trend.

Then i looked into pro screen products (screen goo and others) and found these were expensive, and difficult/impossible to source.

so ive settled on making my own, with someones help of course!

Ive got a totally light controlled room (dark walls, floors, grey ceilings and curtains surrounding left-rear-right walls), and a mitsubishi hc7000 (on the way). below is a sketchup of the room layout

Im sitting 3.5mtr from the screen which i plan to make 96" in size. Ive been reading up on BW but have realised this probably isnt right as the room has no ambient light. MaxxMudd sounded perfect till i read about the hot spot issues. ive looked into a few others, but nothing so far has jumped out as a clear winner. Ultimately i understand that it may require some actual testing, but surely there is a formula for this kind of setup.

As a graphic designer, ive got a pretty keen eye for colour and this is why its important to me to achieve the best possible image quality. That said, I just want what everyone wants, deep blacks, bright whites, colour accuracy and balanced levels.

btw, was ganna spray onto 12mm mdf. Have a sheet lying round and decided to make use of it.

now all i need is some good paint advise.

cheers
Andrew

Mechanical horizontal masking system for 1.78 fixed frame screen

mjg100 — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 13:21:20 GMT

I posted this in my screen thread, but I noticed in another thread a poster asking about building a mechanical masking system so I decided to make a new thread for any posters that might be interested.

I have now added an adjustable horizontal masking system to my 106" fixed frame screen.

My masking system consists of the following items:
1. 7 ply fiberglass faced plywood. (Had this at the shop so I used it)
2. Two pieces of flat stock sheet metal. (Had this at the shop. I think it is 24gauge.)
3. Flat stock of sheet metal. (Had this at the shop. I think it is 28 gauge.)
4. 12' of 1/16" air craft cable. TSC
5. Triple black velvet. SY Fabrics
6. Two small turnbuckles for cable length adjustment. TSC
7. Four 1/16" cable clamps. TSC
8. Two oval chain links to connect turnbuckles to masking system. TSC
9. Two screw hooks to hang pulleys. TSC
10. Four heavy duty draw slides. Lowes
11. Two pieces of 12" long 1/2"x1/2" aluminum angle. (Had this at the shop.)
12. Sheet metal screws, wood screws, wood glue and 3M Super 77 spray adhesive. (Had these materials at the shop.)

I made four sheet metal angles (24 gauge) 3/4"x2"x8" long for brackets. These were fastened vertically to the back of the screen frame, about 1-1/4" in from the outside edge of the screen frame. I attached the draw slides to these brackets. I made four sheet metal (28 gauge) U-brackets to wrap around the end of the screen frame. These brackets have a 3/4" leg coming off of the "U" so that I could connect the other half of the draw slide the the "U" bracket. The "U"-brackets are 6" long and the legs are 3" (face) 2-3/8" (side) 1-1/4" (return at back) and 3/4" leg to attach to draw slide. With the brackets and draw slides in place I now have four pieces of flat sheet metal (face of "U"-bracket 6" high x 3" wide) in front of my screen frame to attach the masking panels. These brackets are free to move (18" total) up and down the vertical face of my screen frame.

For the masking panels I cut three 8" wide strips from the plywood. The third strip is need so that I can make two panels 98-3/8" long. I beveled the top edge so that when the panels are in place there is a slope on the edge towards the screen. I used wood glue and biscuit joints to make the panels the length I needed. Next I simply covered the panels with Triple Black Velvet.

Since the distance from the back of the masking panel to my screen is about 1-1/4" I needed a way to extend the masking back to the screen. For this I made two sheet metal angles (24 gauge) 91-1/2" long with 1-1/8" leg and a 2" leg. inside to inside of my screen frame is 91-3/4" so I have 1/8" clearance on each side. These sheet metal angles serve two purposes. One is to extend the masking to the screen and the other is to keep the masking panels from ever bowing. Angle is attached to the masking panel every 10" with wood screws. The angle sticks up above the masking panel 1/8".

To cover the angles I cut two strips of velvet 4" wide and 94" long. I sandwiched the velvet between the masking panel and the sheet metal angle. The ends of the velvet were folded back and tucked under the ends of the angle. This created an edge that extended about 3/16" past the end of the angle. This was done to fill the 1/8" gap between the masking and the inside edge of my frame. I then sprayed the inside of the angle with Super 77 and wrapped the velvet around the angle.

I removed the sheet metal "U"-brackets from the screen. They slide off when you press a release button on the draw slide. I then screwed the brackets to the back (end) of the masking panels. Then I simply slid the brackets back onto the draw slides. With the masking panels fully open (1.78) the 91-1/2" long sheet metal angle rests against the inside edge of my screen.

The cable system is very simple and used by others. I attached the 12" long x 1/2" x 1/2" aluminum angles to the back of the "U"-brackets on the top mask so that I would have a cable attachment point six inches below the masking panel. This allowed me to mount the two pulleys lower so that they are behind the screen rather than above the screen. I installed the two pulleys so that the top of the pulley is about 1-1/2" below the top of the screen. I connected a turnbuckle to the bottom mask and ran the cable up to the pulley and then down to the bottom of the 1/2" x 1/2" aluminum angle connected to the "U"-bracket. I did the same on the other side. I adjusted the turnbuckles so that the masking when fully open has the 91-1/2" sheet metal angle resting against the inside edge of my screen. Now when one panel is moved the other panel moves the same amount in the opposite direction.

I did not take pictures during the install, but here are pictures of the masking panels in place.

1.78 screen aspect ratio
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/IMGP0576.jpg

2.40 aspect ratio
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/IMGP0580.jpg

2.40 aspect ratio (the above picture over exposed to show masking system)
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...IMGP0598-1.jpg

Close up of lower left corner. (over exposed so that you can see the masking)
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/IMGP0599.jpg

Cable system. This photo was taken before I painted the "U"-bracket black.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/IMGP0585.jpg

The key to this whole thing is the 91-1/2" velvet wrapped sheet metal angle. Since the mask panels are in front of my screen frame I needed a way to get the mask edge to the screen and yet when fully opened would not block off much of the screen when watching 1.78 material. The only problem with my masking, you can't just reach up with one hand a pull it into place. You have to adjust each side of the top masking panel to get a perfect alignment. You only have to do this with one mask since the masked are connected with cables. Not a big deal because I can slide the masking into the correct position in about 5 seconds.

I have a solution for the above problem and it will be cheap to implement, just have not had time to do anything with it yet. I am going to get two or three 1/2" stamped steel pillow block bearings and a 98-1/4" long, 1/2" steel pipe. That and a little bit of wood blocking is all I will need. The pipe with pillow blocks will be placed horizontally behind my screen so that the edge of the pipe lines up with the 1/16" cable. Then I will just need to wrap the cable around the pipe (2 wraps). This way when you pull down on the masking the pipe will rotate and move both ends of the masking the same.

Added
I added the pillow block bearings and a piece of 1/2" EMT to my horizontal masking system as I talked about in the last paragraph of my post above. With the cables wrapped two turns around the EMT, both side are now tied together. Now when I pull down on the top mask to slide the masks into place the top mask moves down level and the lower mask moves up level. I think my masking is complete.

Picture showing the 1/2" pillow block bearings and 1/2" EMT.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/f...m/IMGP0601.jpg

I used these pillow block bearings.
www.thebigbearingstore.com/servlet/the-63/1-fdsh-2"-Pressed-Steel-Pillow/Detail

The cables, clips and drawer slides are concealed behind my screen in fact it is contained in the 3.25" width of my screen frame. The only parts that are directly behind my screen are the 1/2" EMT and the 1/2" pillow block bearings. I painted these items flat black. The blocking was already in place to space my AT screen out from the wall.

Another screen color choice question

cdcstl — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 17:48:54 GMT

I'm about to get an Elite Silver Screen. It looks like they have been discontinued & the prices are good. My question is about screen material. I have the Benq W5000, with light walls & carpeting. I am thinking about the Power Gain for a brighter image but am afraid of visible grain. I watch mostly movies, very little sports.

Any opinions about Power Gain vs Grey vs White ?:help:

height of screen from the floor

Txgrizzly — Fri, 06 Nov 2009 13:25:45 GMT

Ok guys,
i have started my HT project and the front room is now a concrete floor and i am getting ready to build the platform for the 2nd row seating so here is my question:

how high should i mount the screen on the wall so 2nd row of seating will see unimpeded and the 1st row of seating is not looking up to much. :ponder:

my room is 20 feet deep and 12 feet wide with 10 foot ceiling.
the screen will be on the 12 foot wall
i am looking at a 98" wide screen 16:9 format
1st row of seating will be 10 feet from the screen
the platform for the 2nd row of seating will be 12" and 2nd row will be at around 15 feet
the projector will be hung from the ceiling in a soffet i am going to build 16 feet from the screen

if you need more info to give me some suggestions please let me know and i will provide... :bigsmile:

Elite PrimeVision DreamWindow

Samaritano — Thu, 05 Nov 2009 20:26:51 GMT

Hello forum.

I'm ready to shop for a screen on my almost complete HT. My setup is a Pioneer PRO-FPJ1 projector (RS2 clone) and Panamorph UH440 lense. The PJ is mounted 8' high and 14' 8" back of my 15' by 17' totally light controlled room. I am looking for a 2.37:1 AR screen with a height of 48". I have received samples from Carada, Stewart, Da-Lite and Elite Screens. So far I like the Elite PowerGain and the Stewart StudioTek 130 G3 but due to pricing I'm considering the Elite screen but with the wider 3.5" frame.

Has anybody here had any experience with this screen from Elite? How about pricing? I believe this is a custom install product and Elite told me to contact my local distributor. I called and was informed that they no longer carry Elite Screens. Is there a online e-tailer that carries this screen?

Thanks.

Edgar

Draper or Elite

Blktre — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 16:39:04 GMT

I'm on a pretty tight budget so im looking at a few manual 16:9 screens. Ive narrowed it down to two.

I'm looking at the Draper Luma 106" Matte White and the Elite M100XWH 100" MaxWhite. The PJ im pretty sure im getting is the new Epson HC 8100 with 1400 lumens. I will be using this system in a partial ambient/controlled light during the day to dark room at night.

Both screens have a gain of around 1.1. My questions are is the Matte and Maxwhite going to be the best screen type and has anyone have any experience with either one of these screens when it comes to durability? Thanks for all your input..

Fwiw, i tried to search first but really couldn't find exactly what i was looking for.

Cheers,
Andy

backboard for wilson art laminate

shadyJ — Wed, 04 Nov 2009 06:03:11 GMT

Hello,
I'm a long time lurker, first time poster! I am in the planning stages of putting together my first projection screen home theater. I have read a lot, and I have decided that Wilson art Designer white laminate is the best thing for my situation. My situation is I have a fairly dark basement room which measures 7.5' high x 13' wide x 19' deep, and I want to project a 110" to 120" 9:16 screen on the 7.5' x 13' wall. After a lot of research, I have decided that the Optoma HD20 would be the best for my circumstances.

So what I want to do is get a large piece of Wilson Art DW and use its it's maximum height to get a 9:16 ratio (I have read that even though the largest official width of that laminate is 5' high, it is actually 1" taller? is that true?). Anyway, now I am trying to figure out what to do about the backboard. I like the idea of pegboard that I read in the official laminate thread, but I am wondering if there is a more detailed guide to that somewhere? That little animation isn't very specific!

First of all, how do you piece together two pieces of pegboard to make a flat surface suitable for gluing the laminate? Will those peg holes help keep out air bubbles? Will I have to treat the board with anything first? Any tips or advice you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated!

I also want to thank you guys for a terrific screen forum, and all the work you guys have done in exploring better screens, and sharing that work with the public. This place is a real treasure!

James

Screen Build Help!!

BengalfanMT — Tue, 03 Nov 2009 16:54:12 GMT

I am setting up a home theater in the basement and was looking around the site for a good design to build a 110" 16 x 9 screen. I would also like to make a masking system either removable or mechanical. I have read some people using the pink foam board but ideally would like to have a mechanical version so I have more flexibility for different aspect ratios. Any links to some good builds would be appreciated as well as some detailed instructions. I am pretty handy but would like this to look as nice as possible. Thanks for the help in advance.

DW or Scorpion

ubaldoc — Wed, 28 Oct 2009 18:03:41 GMT

Hello. I've been lurking for about a year and gathering information. I am finally getting close to finishing my basement and need a little advice on what screen to make. I plan on purchasing my projector this next month. I'm hoping its the epson 8500ub, unless they price it higher than anticipated (< $2500). If that ends up too high, then I'll probably opt for the ae4000.

My room is approx 13'W x 30'L. Seating will be at about 12' and the pj location can vary but I was going for about 13-14'. The room can be completely light controlled, but I envision using it mostly for HDTV and gaming so there will be some ambient light. The wall behind the screen is a dark red and the rest of the room is light colored, i.e beige walls and white ceiling.

I want at least a 110" screen. My walls are not set up well for painting so I was going to use laminate or a substrate to paint. Since there is no way that I can get a 5x10 sheet of hardboard or mdf down into my basement, I was going to buy laminate and construct the screen down there. I can buy a DW sheet for $95 locally, but if I was going to paint it anyway, I could probably buy a cheaper sheet.

I guess my question is if it's worth spending $95 on DW to see if I like it, or since I will be using the pj in slight ambient light mostly, is better to just go to Scorpion 8 (or other suggestion) on a cheaper laminate to help with contrast.

Thanks for all the info that you guys have provided on this site.

All Scorpion N8, N8.5, and C&S screen owners...

wbassett — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 05:10:21 GMT

For anyone that has any of the above screens... how about some screenies and shots of your room setups!

Looking for Advice on new Screen

TheSensFan — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 01:07:32 GMT

Hi All...

New to the site and I can honestly say my eyes are sore from reading so many posts on different paints. :gulp: Therefore, I thought I would simply give you a little background and request some suggestions.

I will be upgrading my InFocus 4805 with the new Pan. AE4000. Currently I am using a 96 inch black out cloth screen and it has worked wonders. But seeing that I am upgrading the projector I thought it would be a good time to upgrade my screen as well and experiment a bit.

The new black frame has already been built (110 inches 16x9) and will be installed on a perfectly flat and primed wall. Room is has total light control.

It looks like there are two ways to approach the paint mixture, one is to have your local hardwrae store mix it for you or two purchase a number of tints and mix it yourself. I was leaning toward sthe first one seeing that it looks easier. :)

Can anyone suggest a paint mixture which would go well with the AE4000 to achieve the best contrast and colours?

Cheers!
TSF