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		<title>Home Theater Systems - Electronics and Forum - HomeTheaterShack - DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</title>
		<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/</link>
		<description>The Sealed and Ported DIY Subwoofers forum includes discussion, design and building of sealed subwoofers and all ported or vented subwoofer designs.  Ported subwoofer designs include the famous SonoSub or SonoTube, the EBS (Extended Bass Shelf), the LLT (Large and Low Tuned) and the newer SLLT (Structural Large and Low Tuned) subwoofer systems.  Share your sealed and ported subwoofer projects here! 

Moderators: Mike P., Ricci, StereoClarity</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sun, 22 Nov 2009 10:29:11 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>Home Theater Systems - Electronics and Forum - HomeTheaterShack - DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/</link>
		</image>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[small-ish LLT sub for 12" driver?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/23010-small-ish-llt-sub-12-driver.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 16:36:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have never built a speaker or a sub. 
 
I have been reading about LLT and I am fascinated by the tech.  I was thinking of...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have never built a speaker or a sub.<br />
<br />
I have been reading about LLT and I am fascinated by the tech.  I was thinking of adding a larger sub to setup.<br />
<br />
<b>My modest room &amp; setup</b>:<br />
mains: Klipsch RF15x2<br />
center: Klipsch RC25 <br />
TV: Samsung 61&quot; rear projection 1080p<br />
current receiver: broken HK unit [nickname: Crispy]<br />
-the room is in the lower level of the house and is about 14'x22'x8' with 1 open doorway leading to a hallway and the rest of the house<br />
-In December, I am expecting a new Onkyo TX-SR607 which is 7.2 and possibly a 12&quot; BIC sub which is part of what began the inspiration for this.  I feel like I would want more bass than a retail 12&quot; cheapo sub will provide.<br />
<br />
I expect to use a new sub for 70%-90% HT and the rest music.<br />
<br />
I say &quot;small-ish&quot; because I'm imagining a large sub but it would be small by LLT standards.<br />
<br />
The first question is: <b>does it make sense</b> to try to create a LLT using a single 12&quot; driver (most seem to be 15&quot; or 18&quot;)?  I am trying to keep cost and size down.<br />
<br />
I have been thinking of building the sub as an &quot;end-table&quot; style configuration.  I was thinking of keeping the largest dimension 2.5' or less [30&quot;x26&quot;x24&quot; or 28&quot;x26&quot;x24&quot; or about 195L to 210L net].<br />
<br />
<b>proposed construction</b>:<br />
net volume of 175-225 L<br />
slotted port at bottom<br />
12&quot; driver<br />
1&quot; MDF<br />
<br />
Will I be able to get this tuned low enough?  If not, approximately how big will I need to go for a 12&quot; driver?<br />
<br />
<b>Amp</b>:<br />
plate amp or external?<br />
I like the idea of simplifying the overall system by using a plate amp like a bash 300.<br />
<br />
My mains and center will be simply running off my HT receiver (Onkyo TX-SR607) so it would be nice to simply use one of the sub out lines for the sub input.<br />
<br />
On the other hand, for $50 more, I can get a behringer ep1500 which would simplify the sub box itself and give me more power.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>Lucasd2002</dc:creator>
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		</item>
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			<title>Some Box Build Questions</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22959-some-box-build-questions.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:06:44 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm noticing the main DIY Sub section seems to be getting more traffic then where my Maelstrom-X 21"...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I'm noticing the main DIY Sub section seems to be getting more traffic then where my <a href="!m22709!http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/exodus-audio/22709-maelstrom-x-21-15cu-sealed-build-2.html#post207249" target="_blank">Maelstrom-X 21&quot;</a>build thread is in the Exodus section. I just want to bounce some ideas/thoughts off the more experienced builders before I cap this box (probably a bit late for some things, but it's good to know regardless). <br />
<br />
I've built many car audio boxes, but that was back in the late 80's early 90's. Subs have come a long way since then! My current box is a dual 10&quot; folded horn based on the Decware Wicked One design...I built this about 10 years ago now!  <a href="http://lonelyraven.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p573447152-4.jpg" target="_blank">http://lonelyraven.zenfolio.com/img/v2/p573447152-4.jpg</a><br />
<br />
So I'm figuring it's time for me to upgrade since the LJ Audio 10&quot; drop like a rock below 30Hz, and I'm 95% Home Theater and 5% background music lately. So I let Kevin of DIYCable.com talk me into a 21&quot; Maelstrom-X in a sealed box. He recommended a 12ft^3 box, but I was having fun with numbers and caught some plywood on sale, so I decided to go a bit bigger. I know I'm beyond the point of diminishing returns, but it's a fun build and should show results regardless.  <br />
<br />
The box (airspace) is 41&quot; X 37&quot; X 23&quot; (those who paid attention in class will recognize these are primes). I made all the bracing asymmetrical, and they are also on primes. All the bracing is installed in the box at prime number spacing...(11&quot; 13&quot; 17&quot; 19&quot; 23&quot; etc) making sure brace to brace spacing isn't evenly divisible, and I've added a band of bracing around the middle of the side panels which breaks the height into 11&quot; panels. So my questions:<br />
<br />
Does this look like enough bracing considering the size of the box?<br />
<br />
<br />
<img src="http://lonelyraven.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p318396661-4.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<br />
I grabbed some &quot;deep pockets&quot; fiberfill pillows for the airspace, but I have some rockwool acoustic blankets I could put in there...would the rockwool help damp 1/4 or 1/2 wave internal resonance??<br />
<br />
<br />
<img src="http://lonelyraven.zenfolio.com/img/v6/p310789236-4.jpg" border="0" alt="" onload="NcodeImageResizer.createOn(this);" /><br />
<br />
<br />
I saw Ricci's sealed test enclosures, and I had already planned on doing a removable (3 layers of 3/4 ply) baffle similar to his. But his boxes made me feel like mine was underbuilt. I just wanted to get more sets of eyes looking at the build before I sealed it up for good. <br />
<br />
I'm open to suggestions!</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>Lonely Raven</dc:creator>
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		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Quick winisd question</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22950-quick-winisd-question.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:46:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[In the system input power do I put the amp's power?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>In the system input power do I put the amp's power?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>MANTI5</dc:creator>
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		</item>
		<item>
			<title>noob needs help</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22947-noob-needs-help.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:20:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi all, long time reader first time poster.  
Just to fill you in, 2 months ago I had some extra money and decided to buy...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all, long time reader first time poster. <br />
Just to fill you in, 2 months ago I had some extra money and decided to buy some Klipsch RF3 towers and RC3 center, that were for sale locally. Well then it all started. These were the first real set of speakers that I have ever had. They handle bass well but I obviously needed more. So, I had a JL 10w0-8 sub that was in a car i had in high school. So I hooked it up to my old  Onkyo receiver. It put out a lot better sound than the  the &quot;Home theater in Box&quot; came with. <br />
After a few weeks I noticed a staticy sound when &quot;s's&quot; were said in dialogs and in music. So I had a friend come over with his Onkyo 605 and we hooked it up to my Klipsch's. Boom, I got the bug. Instantly resolved the problem and I fell in love with my speakers.<br />
Within a couple of days I had an Onkyo 607 in the mail. Then I had to fix the  sub problem. I needed an amp(at the very least). So I also ordered a 240w Dayton off PE. I did some research and found an enclosure diagram on JL's website and built a sealed box to their specs, .75 cu/ft. Then found the winisd program and am still playing with it(kinda having a hard time). Winisd said I needed to build a 1.1 cu/ft box sealed, oh well. <br />
<br />
That brings us to this point. I have not received the amp or the receiver yet.<br />
<br />
The help I need is with winisd and with another sub. <br />
<br />
Is there a guide on how to use the program? A terminology guide? <br />
<br />
Also, I have used JL audio a lot in car audio and love them, I understand that subs are somewhat purpose built but how do you guys fell about the W3v3?<br />
here are the specs from JL's website. <br />
<br />
DC Resistance (Re)	3.563 ohm<br />
Driver Displacement	0.071 cu. ft. / 2.01 liters<br />
Effective Pistion Area(Sd)	80.600 sq. in. / 0.0520 sq. m.<br />
Efficiency (1W/1m)	87.15 dB SPL<br />
Electrical &quot;Q&quot; (Qes)	0.47<br />
Equivalent Compliance (Vas)	2.844 cu. ft. / 80.54 liters<br />
Free Air Resonance (Fs)	26.72 Hz<br />
Mechanical &quot;Q&quot; (Qms)	7.57<br />
Net Weight	14.50 lbs. / 6.58 kg<br />
Nominal Impedance (Znom)	4 ohm<br />
One Way, Linear Excursion (Xmas)	0.510 in. / 13.0 mm<br />
Reference Efficiency (no)	0.31%<br />
Thermal Power Handling (Pt)	500W<br />
Total Speaker &quot;Q&quot; (Qts)	0.44<br />
<br />
Are these good specs? <br />
Sorry for the ignorance, just trying to remedy it.<br />
<br />
Thanks for all the help.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>jamesee</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22947-noob-needs-help.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Audyessy cal: subwoofer distances</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22912-audyessy-cal-subwoofer-distances.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 21:31:09 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi there, 
 
I ran Audyessy on my diy dual 18" sealed sub today and it came up with a really short distance of 0.3 metres....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi there,<br />
<br />
I ran Audyessy on my diy dual 18&quot; sealed sub today and it came up with a really short distance of 0.3 metres. Can anyone explain why this is and what I can do to fix it if it is wrong.<br />
<br />
One thing I did notice was that when the cal came around to the sub the radiator rattled. Would this have an effect on the distance calibrating.<br />
<br />
cheers<br />
<br />
Graham</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>gperkins_1973</dc:creator>
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		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Behringer EP 4000 mode switches</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22824-behringer-ep-4000-mode-switches.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 12 Nov 2009 21:56:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have just had an email back from behringer with regards to the switches and guess what. What they say doesn't match up...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have just had an email back from behringer with regards to the switches and guess what. What they say doesn't match up with what it says in the manual. Their settings for bridged are:<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="margin:20px; margin-top:5px; ">
	<div class="smallfont" style="margin-bottom:2px">Quote:</div>
	<table cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0" border="0" width="100%">
	<tr>
		<td class="alt2">
			<hr />
			
				Hello Graham,<br />
<br />
I confirmed this with the other Tech Staff.<br />
<br />
Bridge mode<br />
<br />
3 &amp; 10 to the left. 1, 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 to the right
			
			<hr />
		</td>
	</tr>
	</table>
</div>The manual says:<br />
<br />
1,6,7,10 are to the right and 2,3,4,5,8,9 are to the left<br />
<br />
See what I mean. I get a better more powerful sound when I set them the following:<br />
<br />
1,2,3,4,5,6,7,9,10 to the right and 8 to the left<br />
<br />
This way all is the same as the manual except for 8 which on input 2 the low cut filter is set to on. Figure that one out. What is right and what is wrong.<br />
<br />
cheers<br />
<br />
Graham</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>gperkins_1973</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22824-behringer-ep-4000-mode-switches.html</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Troubleshooting, lost my bass all of the sudden</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22780-troubleshooting-lost-my-bass-all-sudden.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:32:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[DELTE:  Sorry but I solved the problem....Had a loose tip on my connector.   
 
 
It's been a while since I've posted and to...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>DELTE:  Sorry but I solved the problem....Had a loose tip on my connector.  <br />
<br />
<br />
It's been a while since I've posted and to be honest my knowledge of things &quot;audible&quot; is rusty. <br />
<br />
Problem: My bass went out all of the sudden when I started a movie up and I cannot seem to determine the problem. All other sound and video is working fine. <br />
<br />
Here's my setup:<br />
Denon AVR2105<br />
Behringer EP2500 Amp<br />
1124P Feedback Destroyer<br />
Subs- 2 700 liter Sonotubes with Fi Q18s tuned to 13hz  <br />
<br />
When I power up my amp, the fan runs and the red light blinks for a sec but now yellow (signal). <br />
<br />
I have tested the connections they seem to work. <br />
<br />
When I unplug/reconnect my connector from the 1124 and the amp I get a quick thump but thats it. <br />
<br />
Seems like I may need to replace the sub cable running from the receiver to the 1124 but not sure. <br />
<br />
Again, this happened all of the sudden, I have not moved or touched any hookups recently. <br />
<br />
Is there a way to check my Amp to make sure it hasn't died?<br />
<br />
Thoughts? <br />
<br />
thanks in advance,<br />
Matt</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>Mattlock</dc:creator>
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		</item>
		<item>
			<title>LLT based on the SPH-450TC driver from Monacor</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22706-llt-based-sph-450tc-driver-monacor.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2009 20:03:24 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi, 
 
I'm in the need of a subwoofer which needs to assist an existing system, mainly used for music. 
I thought of...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi,<br />
<br />
I'm in the need of a subwoofer which needs to assist an existing system, mainly used for music.<br />
I thought of building a LLT with this <a href="http://www.monacor.dk/produkter/hoejttalerenheder-pa15-18/vnr/103270/" target="_blank">driver</a>.<br />
<br />
Two questions:<ol style="list-style-type: decimal"><li>Will this driver be suitable for a LLT arrangement?</li>
<li>Will I get the same advanges for music as for movies with LLT</li>
</ol><br />
<br />
Tue</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>tued</dc:creator>
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		</item>
		<item>
			<title>13w1 v2 Sub Build</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22614-13w1-v2-sub-build.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2009 09:27:35 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>well ive finally got all the pieces jl audio 13w1 v2 and bash 300, now mike p has already helped me out the the size of...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>well ive finally got all the pieces jl audio 13w1 v2 and bash 300, now mike p has already helped me out the the size of vent/box but i just realized i still not sure on a few things so here is what ive got so far; 23&quot; cube with a 2x8x16&quot; vent. my question is are those the measurements for the inside of the vent or the outside? also should the vent run all the way out the double front baffle or should it end before the front baffle and the front baffle is just &quot;flared&quot; i plan on using a 1/2&quot; round over.the front baffle will be two laminated 3/4&quot; mdf pieces and the rest of the box will be 3/4&quot; around, i plan on doing 1/2&quot; round over on the whole thing.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>aoessand</dc:creator>
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		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Fi q or btl any other suggestion for a HT sub?</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22565-fi-q-btl-any-other-suggestion-ht-sub.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 05 Nov 2009 00:45:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hey guys, 
 
I was currently looking to get a FI q or btl for X-mas i was wondering if you guys had any suggestions to the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys,<br />
<br />
I was currently looking to get a FI q or btl for X-mas i was wondering if you guys had any suggestions to the sub i also like the Maelstrom x 18 but its a wee expensive when you compare to the FI btl or q for bang for buck?... oh 12 to 18 and between nothing out side price rand from 0:R to 350:coocoo::rolleyesno:<br />
<br />
<br />
 BTL18<br />
<br />
DUAL 1 | DUAL 2<br />
 <br />
Fs: 31.9 Hz | 31.1 Hz<br />
Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil<br />
Qms: 6.26 | 6.42<br />
Qes: .26 | .24<br />
Qts: .24 | .023<br />
Mms: 313g | 329g<br />
Sd: 1210cm^2 | 1210cm^2<br />
Vas: 163.1 l | 163.1 l<br />
Spl: 94.9dB 1W/1m | 94.9dB 1W/1m<br />
Bl: 18.3 N/A | 27.2 N/A<br />
Xmax: 28mm * | 28mm *<br />
Rms: 2000W * | 2000W *<br />
Sealed box: N/A cuft | N/A cuft<br />
Ported box: 5-10cuft | 5-10cuft<br />
Sub OD: 18.500&#8221; | 18.500&#8221;<br />
Cut ID: 16.750&#8221; | 16.750&#8221;<br />
Mounting depth: 10.250&#8221; | 10.250&#8221;<br />
Displacement: 0.26cuft | 0.26cuft <br />
<br />
<br />
 Q18<br />
<br />
DUAL 1 | DUAL 2<br />
 <br />
Fs: 24.5 Hz | 23.8 Hz<br />
Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil<br />
Qms: 5.66 | 5.73<br />
Qes: .64 | .63<br />
Qts: .58 | .57<br />
Mms: 322g | 342g<br />
Cms: 0.13mm/N | 0.13mm/N<br />
Sd: 1210cm^2 | 1210cm^2<br />
Vas: 268 l | 268 l<br />
Spl: 89.7dB 1W/1m | 89.4dB 1W/1m<br />
Bl: 10.4 N/A | 15.1 N/A<br />
Xmax: 27mm<br />
Rms: 1000W<br />
Sealed box: 4-8 cuft<br />
Ported box: 6-10 cuft @ 28Hz<br />
Sub OD: 18.500&#8221;<br />
Cut ID: 16.750&#8221;<br />
Mounting depth: 10.000&#8221;<br />
Displacement: 0.24cuft <br />
<br />
Thanks guys<br />
<br />
cheers,<br />
<br />
KrazyBassKevin</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>KrazyBassKevin</dc:creator>
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			<title>My RSS390HF Build - 4 Boxes in Satin Black</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22461-my-rss390hf-build-4-boxes-satin-black.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 02 Nov 2009 22:17:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>OK - First off thanks to anybody here who has provided me advice and to all of you who have posted your own DIY sub pics in...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>OK - First off thanks to anybody here who has provided me advice and to all of you who have posted your own DIY sub pics in the past.  It seems that for the past 6 months or so I have spent an inordinate amount of time on this forum as well as other AV Forums and have gained an amazing amount of great information which inspired me to finally move forward and build my own DIY Sub Boxes.  Although I am not entirely new to working with wood I was initially uncertain if I could build something with satisfactory fit &amp; finish to &quot;pass the grade&quot; and look like it belonged in my home.<br />
<br />
My goals were pretty simple.....this system will occupy my own personal music room in my house where I keep my acoustic drum kit.  I wanted to build an 80% music oriented system that would sound BOTH good and very loud.  I would like to have the option to play my drumkit without headphones and instead use the speakers to &quot;play along&quot; with the drums and I knew it would take a lot of both watts and speaker to accomplish this goal without straining the system.  I decided on the Dayton RSS390HF based on sound quality, value, positive feedback and lastly for my own personal preference of building a large sealed sub.<br />
<br />
The boxes are 21.75&quot;x21&quot;x21.75&quot; constructed out of 3/4&quot; MDF.  The front baffle is 1.5&quot; and the top of the boxes are also 1.5&quot; thick.  I used 2x4's for bracing and a full roll of R13 (I think) fiberglass insulation which was 3.5&quot; thick to dampen the box and attached it to all of the interior walls.  I get an internal volume of approximately 4.5 cubic feet when I account for bracing and stuffing.<br />
<br />
The primer is Zinsser BIN (2 Coats rolled with 1/4&quot; nap roller).  The satin black coat is Sherwin Williams Duration Acrylic Latex (4 coats rolled with 6&quot; foam roller) and finally I sealed the S&amp;W satin black with Minwax Polycrylic Satin using a Purdy 3&quot; brush and light coats.  All coats of primer, acrylic and polycrylic were sanded lightly in between coats using 220 grit sandpaper.<br />
<br />
The only part of the finish I would do differently if I could go back is that I used MH Ready Patch Professional Spackling (black and orange can) on the outside exposed edges of the front baffle and to fill in some of the seams where the MDF met up on the edges on the outside of the box.  The spackling dried extremely hard and quickly but my mistake was not sanding it down far enough.  Although it looked to my eye and felt to my hand to be smooth prior to painting you can see some of the edges on the painted boxes.  It isn't disastrous by any means but I should have spent a little more time feathering the edges of the spackling to get the perfect finish I was hoping for.<br />
<br />
Other than that I am pretty happy with the results although I have yet to hook the boxes up yet and listen to them.  Currently they are awaiting the amps and misc gear I have to order in the next few weeks to finish out what I need to start listening to music.  I plan on buying a couple of EP4000s to power everything and I already have purchased a pair of Behringer B2031P studio monitors (pictured) to handle the mid and high range.  I am most likely going to use a Yamaha RX-V665 as a pre-amp and 5.1 processor as well and a DCX2496 for active xover and eq duties. A 42&quot; Panasonic Viera Plasma will round out the system which will be used mainly for PS3 duty and watching BluRay movies.  Lastly over the weekend I pulled the trigger on a center channel and surrounds from The Speaker Company (P5-<acronym title="Page Ranking">PR</acronym> 5.25&quot;surrounds and TC2 center channel).  Since this system is not my &quot;main&quot; system at home I tried to make purchasing decisions around high value yet high quality and performing equipment.  Hopefully by the time Xmas rolls around I will have some pics of the completed system I can post here as well as listening impressions.  Thanks again for this forum - the info is invaluable!<br />
<br />
The pics below show the speakers in the room they will be placed in but they are not permanently situated yet in the photos....I have some reorganization to do first before they are permanently placed.</div>


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			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>GSX-R_Rider</dc:creator>
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			<title>onkyo TX-607 help</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22407-onkyo-tx-607-help.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 02 Nov 2009 03:04:30 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>do you need a s-converter to bump the lfe voltage up??  
 
Help please:huh:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>do you need a s-converter to bump the lfe voltage up?? <br />
<br />
Help please:huh:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>KrazyBassKevin</dc:creator>
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			<title>PA amps for ht and music room HELP NEEDED thanks</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22370-pa-amps-ht-music-room-help-needed-thanks.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 23:00:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>For starters hello my name is kevin and In a nube to the shack and wanted the minds of this forums to see if they could help...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>For starters hello my name is kevin and In a nube to the shack and wanted the minds of this forums to see if they could help me... thanks...<br />
<br />
SO currently i own 2 kicker cvr 400 rms and 800 peak and im interested in getting a pa amp the one listed above in the title either behringer 4000/2000 or qsc 1450/1850/2450 or Mackie FR 1400i, but i dont want my circuity popping all the time when i hit a bass line or a action scene in a movie. I can get the behringer 4000 current going prices 350/300 on Partsexpress and the qsc 1450 for $300 and the 2450 for $400 and the mackie 1400 i the FR series for 200$ :spend: :dontknow: although i dont know which one to get<br />
<br />
<br />
If you could please keep in mind theres a Fi btl or q headed my way for Christmas or my B-day in march<br />
<br />
<br />
And currently my kickers 12in cvrs are ina  2½  cubic foot box..SEALED<br />
<br />
and if you guys have any box suggestions either ported or sealed with sizes please let me know<br />
<br />
THANKS AND CHEERS<br />
<br />
KRAZYBASSKEVIN</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>KrazyBassKevin</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[IXL 18.4 + 24" cube=]]></title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22358-ixl-18-4-24-cube.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 21:16:59 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Me smiling, But now to decide some factors in it, I need an amp and was going to purchase one after Xmas now, most likely...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Me smiling, But now to decide some factors in it, I need an amp and was going to purchase one after Xmas now, most likely the Bash500 from CSS.<br />
<br />
But would it be a good idea to put pillows or any other stuffing in the box?<br />
<br />
For now I'm using a Earthquake Supernova amp on it from my other sub I have. haven't had the chance to really turn it up as the house is full atm, but tomorrow I should be home alone :devil:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>93ext</dc:creator>
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			<title>Alternative to Sonotube?</title>
			<link>http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/22297-alternative-sonotube.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 31 Oct 2009 02:55:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I was wandering through our plant today admiring our nice big round carboard garbage cans when it struck me they look a lot...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I was wandering through our plant today admiring our nice big round carboard garbage cans when it struck me they look a lot like sonotube.  The are containers for bulk mig weld wire and measure 21.5&quot; ID by about 3' tall.<br />
<br />
I don't know how ridgid they are compared to sonotube, but I am wondering if they will do for playing around with different sizes and tunings.<br />
<br />
Anybody else ever see these?  What do you think?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-sealed-ported/">DIY Subwoofers - Sealed and Ported</category>
			<dc:creator>fredk</dc:creator>
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