Single or Pair of 'X' for HT use?

[bumpnzx3]

and yes- i do think it's completely acceptable to wear the same dirty clothes out to the shop multiple days in a row

[bumpnzx3]

I didn't do too much today. I glued all of the sections of pvc pipe together, then glued them in place in the enclosure. I also used the roundover bit on the front baffle to do the edges and make the flared exhaust port.

[mrstampe]

Looks great! How close to the interior of the top wall do the ports terminate? They look kinda close. Only reason I ask is that, by convention, the port opening is supposed to be at least as far away from any surface as the port diameter. Some say that if you violate the rule, you may get chuffing, or port noise. Others don't have a problem. Just wondering...

[bumpnzx3]

it's only a shade over 1" from the back wall , and about 4.5" or so from the bottom. i ordered the interior flared ports the other day. when they get in, i will most likely have to do a little trimming/modding in order to keep them as far away from the walls as possible. when i was measuring/cutting the pvc- i forgot all about the flares.

[Ricci]

Looking good man! Most of the time it is recommended that you keep the ports well away from any walls, but some well known sub designers also use close placement of the port mouth to the back wall to drop the tuning a little lower. Epik Conquest for example. Either way I think you'll be ok.

[bumpnzx3]

i've got my fingers crossed- but i think it will be ok also. hell, at the very least, it's going to be loads better than the modded (polyfil, few layers of mod-pod on the cone, and 5lbs of clay on the basket) sony sa-wm40 i am currently rocking

[derekbannatyne]

I put my ports in basically the same relative position as yours, my sub seems to function fine (and definitely better than the 6.5" HTIB "sub" I had earlier).

[bumpnzx3]

that's pretty much what i was thinking. ignorance (to a good HT sub) is bliss