I have read so many threads on this and other forums in search for the optimum screen choice for my dedicated HT, that my head is ready to explode. :wits-end: I'm currently using a white cotton bed sheet and I am very happy with the blacks, whites, color and contrast. If it wasn't for the fact that I can see the weave of the sheet on white scenes, I would simply frame out the sheet and hang it. I have listed the details of my HT setup and would appreciate any input. I prefer a fixed screen and I am open to any solutions.
Room Dimensions: 11.6' wide X 23' deep with 7.6 ceilings
Wall Color: Black (Eggshell)
Ceiling Color: Dark Gray (Eggshell)
Carpet Color: Dark Gray/Silver
Projector: HC5000BL ceiling mounted 15' from screen
Seating: 13' from screen
Current screen size on sheet 110"
Total Light Control - but like ceiling cans on a low dim when watching movies. (closest cans are 10' from screen)
Primary use: Blu-Ray movies and HD TV (including hockey)
Also I forgot to add, that during my exhaustive search I remember seeing a thread that contained posts from a member who made screens using a matte white screen material with something like a 1:3 gain and was selling them at a good price, the frame even had tension adjustments. If anyone knows who I am talking about please let me know.
Well if using a cotton sheet gives you the blacks, etc. that you like, take a look at Wilsonart Designer White Laminate. TritonMan has an excellent writeup on mounting here.
I had a feeling my first replies we be from either you or Bassett, thanks for the quick response.
I read the thread you are referring to and my immediate thought was, what do you use as a substrate for the laminate to provide for a 110" diagonal screen, when most material is going to be 4X8.
I know what you mean about reading so much that you're confused. As the saying goes "been there, done that". :bigsmile:
First of all, there is no single "optimum screen", there are only better screens for any given situation; and ultimately, it comes down to viewer preference.
If you are happy with a white screen, cool. Go with what works for you.
This next question is for the entire forum. Wouldn't BOC work well in this case?
I know what you mean about reading so much that you're confused. As the saying goes "been there, done that". :bigsmile:
First of all, there is no single "optimum screen", there are only better screens for any given situation; and ultimately, it comes down to viewer preference.
If you are happy with a white screen, cool. Go with what works for you.
This next question is for the entire forum. Wouldn't BOC work well in this case?
Thanks for the input, I'm gonna go with the Wilson DW, but I am also making curtains for the french doors in my HT and will now look into BOC to use as a backer for the curtains.
Thanks for the input, I'm gonna go with the Wilson DW, but I am also making curtains for the french doors in my HT and will now look into BOC to use as a backer for the curtains.
Just picked up a 5X12 sheet of DW OTD for $97.71 from my local paneling center. Stood it up IFO the white cotton sheet I had been using, put in the BD version of Live Free or Die Hard and............Holy ****, I don't think I'm ever gonna leave my HT, well maybe to go to the head..LOL I can't belive the quality of the picture.....unbelievable. Thanks for the suggestions, now it's time to build my frame.
Just picked up a 5X12 sheet of DW OTD for $97.71 from my local paneling center. Stood it up IFO the white cotton sheet I had been using, put in the BD version of Live Free or Die Hard and............Holy ****, I don't think I'm ever gonna leave my HT, well maybe to go to the head..LOL I can't belive the quality of the picture.....unbelievable. Thanks for the suggestions, now it's time to build my frame.
Oh, but of course!!
Just trying to decide which framing methode to use, right now leaning towards your frame you made. Still no warping issues with the 1X4 poplar?
Thanks and the photos are converted to gifs when I optimize them for the web in Photoshop prior to uploading to Photobucket. I quess I could just leave them in JPG format and push them over that way. Maybe the quality might be a little better.
Very nice. Do you have a ballpark figure on what it cost to put this together? I'm debating on a DIY screen like this or simply painting one on the wall.
Very nice. Do you have a ballpark figure on what it cost to put this together? I'm debating on a DIY screen like this or simply painting one on the wall.
Dingrr: Sorry for the delayed response, was out of town, total screen cost was about $140 the bulk of which was the 5X12 sheet of laminate, which was $97.71.
Thanks Cyn..... I'm very pleased with final product.:yay:
Great looking screen !
How did you mount it to the wall (sorry if I overlooked that info)?
Are you going to add masking for different movie AR's (aspect rations) ?
I have to build my screen & frame, thanks for sharing your build.
Great looking screen !
How did you mount it to the wall (sorry if I overlooked that info)?
Are you going to add masking for different movie AR's (aspect rations) ?
I have to build my screen & frame, thanks for sharing your build.
Yes, I am currently fabricating removable masking, I am using 1/4 ply covered in black velvet with magnets attached to the back of the mask and back of screen, the mask magnets are covered by a piece of felt to protect screen. This method allows the masking to be easily attached and removed.
dingrr, you asked this question a few months ago so you probably have already set up your DIY screen. But I used 10ft by 5ft DW, just screwed it into a wall, and nailed rolled-up black velvet around it for a cheap frame. Total cost: $88 for DW and $35 for black velvet. Total time: 1 hour. I will probably eventually create a better frame, though.
I happened to come back from Vegas with some green in my pocket, so I threw it at a Mitsu HC5500. It should be here on Monday according to the tracking number. I ordered my WilsonArt Designer White 5X10 yesterday for $109 (sadly the best price I could find, and the shop is only 1 mile away, so it all works out).
I'm still day dreaming about how I'm going to frame it as I fully intend to make it floating so I can back-light it with rope lights, and use removable black velvet boarders so I can just velcro up 3" borders for 16:9 or drop in some taller boarders for 2.40:1.
At least, that's my plan. Still working out the details.
I'm still day dreaming about how I'm going to frame it as I fully intend to make it floating so I can back-light it with rope lights, and use removable black velvet boarders so I can just velcro up 3" borders for 16:9 or drop in some taller boarders for 2.40:1.
At least, that's my plan. Still working out the details.
I put mine on a 2x4 frame. I made the frame about 4in smaller than the laminate. This allowed for the back lighting while still sitting close to the wall (2"). It also allowed me to do a quick and cheap boarder. I used some Velcro straps ($7 for 20ft (I think)) and off the shelf push clips (and hot glue).
Having the frame smaller does create the problem that it is more difficult to work with after-construction because you can't simply set the screen on its edge on the floor.
For mounting, I just mounted two 2ft 2x4s to the wall and placed the screen on it.
I also made the mistake of gluing the laminate to two 2x4 cross members (As well as the outter frame). This created 2 ripples/indentions that is visible on very light/white images. I recalled, after the fact, that it was noted that you should not glue to the cross members (I assume for this reason). My end results was poor and I effectively wasted a sheet of D350-60. I am not deciding if I want to get a second and just glue it to the first, or scrap it and start over.
I think the proper plan would have been to only glue on the outer rim, not the cross members. I had two cross members. It was the two center beams that got me into trouble. I can't see any distortion at the edges. My plan on the replacement is to only glue the edges or corners. My concern however is that if it is not glued or secured in the middle, will the bass from the sub cause 'waves'? And if it is not nice and tight, it might not come out even.
I glued to the outer frame only. No cross members or inner parts at all.
mech
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