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Bass Trap Test... did this fail?

8K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  bpape 
#1 · (Edited)
I heard a while ago about buying insulation and leaving it in the bag to test in out.

The cheapest, easy to find rigid fiberglass in my area is Roxul R6 ComfrotBoard IS.
I got 5 boxes of the stuff and did some tests.



Did this fail as a test or is this stuff too rigid.
Boxes have 6 panel at 1.5 Inches so 48' x 24' x 9'

First SPL graph Blue is before Yellow is after.
Decay graph first before second after... same with Waterfall graph.
 

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#2 ·
Do you have before and after tests... I am assuming the ones you posted are after. Or is this before and after?
 
#8 ·
You have to remove the plastic and put a cloth miss the air so that the traps are more or less effective.
You can line them wadding and then an acoustic fabric to your personal taste.

I apologize for my English,translator use.

Greetings.
I did not remove the plastic because I'm going to be returning the stuff. Plus I figured bass would just travel through thin plastic.

This was just a test to see if I'm going to spend real money on bass traps.
 
#7 ·
The frequency response is showing that though you treated the space, you didn't evidently get it in the right place for the big null and likely it wasn't thick enough to get that low in frequency.
 
#9 ·
The plastic is fine on. When you have a layer like that it only restricts high frequencies. It acts somewhat like a membrane for the mids and lows. Where it stops absorbing depends on the density of the plastic.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for all the help guys. I think the combination of my small room and Sound proofing has created a few peaks and nulls that can not be handled easily. I'm not really willing to pay the money needed for 4(or more) membrane tuned bass traps. I was hoping 9" thick ridged fiberglass panels with a 12" plus air gap would help below 100Hz in my room. My next test will be a multi "sub" test.
 
#11 ·
That type of thickness can do well below 100 Hz. It just has to be in the right place to impact frequency response. Maybe a layout of your room?
 
#12 ·
Here is the room layout.
As you can tell from the pervious pictures, the traps were in the front and back right corner.
My room is 13' wide and 15' 6" long (long side) or 12' 4" long (shortside)
My LP is 11' back from the front wall/window
Speaker are 5' from the front wall/window
Speakers are 5' 8" apart
in about 3' 7" from the side walls
My LP's closest wall is just over 4 feet away



I returned the Rigid insulation but I guess I could get them again. The only other place to put traps is the back Left corner which now that I think of it might be the best spot. The only problem is that is were my rear speakers are so I could only do 1 panel.
 
#13 ·
The higher null may well be from the speakers being out so far from the front wall.

The null around 50 isn't changing at all with treatment. Move your listening seat without moving anything else and see what that null does. It may well be seating position related.I would move forward.

The asymmetric nature of the rear of the room makes prediction pretty tough. It's just going to be somewhat trial and error.

Whatever you do, only change one thing at a time so you know what is doing what - good or bad.
 
#14 ·
Move your listening seat without moving anything else and see what that null does. It may well be seating position related.I would move forward.

The asymmetric nature of the rear of the room makes prediction pretty tough. It's just going to be somewhat trial and error.

Whatever you do, only change one thing at a time so you know what is doing what - good or bad.
That same day with the "Bass Traps" I did some test with changing the Speakers position. 4, 5, or 6feet from the front wall.
 

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