And even if they were any good, a coverage area of 4x4' for $50 isn't that great. You can DIY for much less, or buy some pre-built from GIK or others that look great for not much more. Posted via Mobile Device
Think thicker, more broadband, and using materials that are better absorbers. Mineral wool, rigid fiberglass board, and acoustic cotton are all excellent candidates.
Spend time and money getting the bottom end right. Measure your room to know where your problems are, what areas are causing them, and then target those places.
OK thanks, we are getting the basement done soon so Ill check everything...I heard somewhere that its bad to put like gaps or spaces in it, is this true?
whats the optimal thickness that should be used by the way?
I do know your suppose to target reflections of walls, but how do you know where they are?
sorry for all these questions...
Not sure what you mean about being bad to have gaps.
To find reflections, you have someone sit in a seat. Another person slides a mirror along a wall until you can see a speaker. Mark the spot. Continue until you see the next speaker, mark it. Repeat for the 3 front speakers.
Then, move seats and repeat. Number of points = number of seats x 3 front speakers. 8 seats, 24 points.
That's only the tip of the iceberg though. There are many other things besides just side wall reflections.
You can also do a scale drawing of the room and draw a mirror image set of speakers the same distance outside the room from the inner side wall surface. Draw a line from the center of the front of each speaker to each seat. Where the line crosses the inner wall surface is where your reflections are. Graph paper is your friend!
Don't use any wood except on the outer perimeter of any absorbers. Any wood or hard surface between layers or between the wall and the absorption will mitigate any benefit from the thicker absorption.
Pics added for clarity. Sorry. It's a generic drawing I usually use for people building these behind a false screen wall - hence the comments about the muslin. If they're going to be exposed, definitely rip both ends for a nice way to cover with cloth.
You'll also need to rig some way to staple to the ends. The other option is to build a grille and use velcro to fasten the cloth/frame to the slats on the walls.
The drawings are fine, so ignore the muslin part right, should the acoustic tiling be flush? I've seen some pictures of them being flush to the wall and others aren't...
Can't paint it. It will clog the pores of the fiberglass and ruin the absorption. That's why some people use Muslin as it's a bit more opaque and hides the color better without messing up the absorption characteristics.
REW is a way to tell you what's happening to start with, how to position things, what needs treating. After that, it's a matter of addressing the major issues and addressing positioning to smooth things as much as possible.
I looked at some of the stuff on utube and Some of it was usefull but on some of the posts they said thats not how it worked
dont worry I will be very patient:bigsmile:
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Home Theater Forum and Systems
742.3K posts
170.9K members
Since 2006
A forum community dedicated to home theater owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about home audio/video, home theaters, troubleshooting, projects, DIY’s, product reviews and more!