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| Home Audio Speakers Adding sub to "full range"...Discuss Adding sub to "full range"... in the Manufactured Speakers and Subwoofers forum; Adding sub to "full range"... Mike Cason wrote:
Well, I don't have an arguement with the Dolby link because I'm certainly not a pro. I'm ... |
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... Quote:
I don't have a crossover adjustment for the mains. My Rotel processor/amp is a very high current amplifier and can easily power my mains, center, and two surrounds. I have a separate amplifier for my two center backs. This is not to be taken as an arguement, but rather a discussion. That's why we have our forums to share information with each other. Mike Last edited by Mike Cason; 03-26-08 at 05:09 PM. | ||||
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... Quote:
At this moment I have my mains set for Full with no crossover as my sub is a little week and I have a separate amp driving them but this will change once I get my SVS PB13 Ultra. Home theater: Onkyo TXSR805 receiver, Samson Servo 4120 bridged @240wattsX2, 2-Mission 765 Mains, 4-762i's Rears, SVS PB13 Ultra, AR center PSC25, 2 Audio control C131 EQ's Toshiba HD A2 & Samsung BDP1400 DVD players, Sanyo Z2 projector Two Channel system: Yamaha RX-V995, Mission 764i's, & A/D/S MS3u sub Yamaha KX-393 Tape deck, CDC 805 5 disc CD changer, LG DV7832NXC DVD player, Motorola HD-PVR, Sony KP-53HS30 rear projection HDTV, turntable PS-T20 Nintendo Wii | ||||
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You will love your SVS subs. I've heard a lot of good things about them.. I broke all the rules by putting two RLP 15s in a 5 cu ft box with 4 passive radiators each, but the results are fantastic. I have a lot of rebuilds, (total of 5 for the sub alone) starting 3 or 4 years ago to achieve the sound I am most happy with.....we call this stuff DIY and we are supposed to enjoy our projects. ![]() BTW....The Lambda line of woofers and subwoofers were custom designed, machined, and built in Florida and as far as I could tell, was one of the highest sought after driver in the world. Nick didn't charge enough for them and eventually sold out. I was negotiating purchasing the business and inventory from him but am lacking in the audio technical department to make a success with their continued production. | ||||
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... sorry I didnt see quotes but all the same I think in general you are correct but for those of us with true full range and various other equipment that is not really the norm the 80hz rule doesnt apply. I didnt want to start a debate just adding that there are almost always exceptions to even the most universally believed rules of thumb, if my goal wasnt a music first system I believe I would probably be firmly in the 80hz camp with most others......cheers | |||
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... Wasn't that 80hz cross over thing brought out/setup by THX anyway? IMO, it really has no basis when it comes to music systems unless your system can not handle frequencies below that with authority. Speakers should be set up as dictated by the capabilities of each speaker or system and the way each individual likes, as that is all that really matters. | |||
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... This one has taken on a mind of it's own. Let's summarize. 80Hz crossover is a good rule of thumb for "movie centric" systems but is still largely determined by personal taste and system capability. If you don't have the time or necessary resources to test your system out, set it and forget it. If you want to play around with different frequencies...by all means. For "music centric systems", many prefer to leave full range speakers handle the bulk of the low end material but will probably need to crossover to a sub and some level. Again...do some testing. Now...as for glaufman's original question... Have we sufficiently turned you around enough so that you have no idea where the donkey's tail needs to go? | |||
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... That does seem somewhat counter intuitive, but I think what happens is that both the sub and mains get material below the crossover and LFE. In other words, the mains get full spectrum and LFE. The sub gets low frequency material from the mains and LFE. You'd better have some serious capability on the mains to handle that. | |||
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... I run full plus sub in my Rotel, it is useful when you have full range fronts for extra depth in the presentaion but center and all surrounds follow what ever cross over you set. If my speakers couldnt handle bas as low as they do (Iam down -10db at 16Hz) I wouldnt use this feature as it could be a woofer killer. | |||
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... Quote:
How much room is adequate to keep the crossover above the mains' cutoff? The other questions it raised, such as is the receiver supposed to do this itself, I can answer empirically, once the wife goes away for a few days... The only question left really will be whether I make sure to get a sub with high level in/outs, so I can eventually use its crossover to power the mains in case I decide I need ot listen to that to see if it's better, and what people think, if the crossover in these subs has characteristics sufficiently flat etc to do this effectively, or if it's a gimmick to stay away from... | ||||
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... Quote:
Theoretically, the receiver is under no obligation to send LFE to the sub... if you tell the receiver your mains are "large," that implies full range, in which case it can very well send the entire LFE to the mains and nothing to the sub... (according to Dolby) ... if all the sats are set to small with a crossover, then the rcvr should transistion via opposing rolloffs from sats to sub at that rolloff... not that the mains shouldn't get anything below that freq, they have to in order to make the transition smooth, but the signal they're given should rolloff... another question becomes at what slop do they rolloff? 1st order, 2nd order, etc... (6 db, 12 db per octave, 20, 40 db per decade?) I plan to run some tests on my AVR to see what it actually does... I'll post the results if anyone's interested, but due to other projects it may be a while before I get around to it... | ||||
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... Quote:
not enough hours in the day... | ||||
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... From the research I have done when 5.1 surrround was originaly demoed they had a subwoofer associated with each channel then something bigger for the .1...so I would find a way to add a sub to all of the channels...then happyness will ensue. ![]() | |||
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... Quote:
My ultimate goal is a sub underneath each and every seating position... Anyone who want ot give me a job that'll let me afford that I'm soliciting offers... | ||||
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... Your looking at lots of issues with that idea. Phase cancellation being one of the biggest. Your far better off adding one Butt kicker to each chair/sofa. Multiple subs installed improperly and set up wrong will not improve bass response and will most likely cause huge dips and peaks in the room of the frequency response. Room treatment, placement and base trapping becomes crucial. Home theater: Onkyo TXSR805 receiver, Samson Servo 4120 bridged @240wattsX2, 2-Mission 765 Mains, 4-762i's Rears, SVS PB13 Ultra, AR center PSC25, 2 Audio control C131 EQ's Toshiba HD A2 & Samsung BDP1400 DVD players, Sanyo Z2 projector Two Channel system: Yamaha RX-V995, Mission 764i's, & A/D/S MS3u sub Yamaha KX-393 Tape deck, CDC 805 5 disc CD changer, LG DV7832NXC DVD player, Motorola HD-PVR, Sony KP-53HS30 rear projection HDTV, turntable PS-T20 Nintendo Wii | |||
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| | #45 (Link) | ||||
| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... Quote:
Dont let the Bass Shakers price fool you, I want the best performance possible for the money and have a system with over $20,000 in equipment, I refrence this to assure you I would pay for the Butt Kicker units if I thought they were better or worth it. I am not sure if Bass Shakers are available anymore as I seem to remember I got them cheap on closeout special. They sat in their boxes for over 2 years before I installed, my friend turned me onto them and has them installed in his seats. No matter which unit these are going to be a better and easier to work with....and cheaper solution you need to explore. Cheers | ||||
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| Re: Adding sub to "full range"... Seems like alot of different experiences. My experience using two stereo subs up front underneath my main L and R speakers differs. I used four different types of speakers and in each case I found that running into the sub first, and then from sub up to speaker using hi level line out was best. The subs default was to send everything above 150Hz to the speakers so in this case the subs were handling alot. There was no localization issues since the subs were directly below the speakers. The set up, in essence, made a full range speaker system good down to 22Hz. Once I got past the thought of how high I thought 150Hz was, I never looked back. I tried various other hook ups and different crossover settings, but overall, running the subs the way I did sounded best=for me in my room. Many speakers use a large woofer and they play pretty high up into the frequency ranges. Its not like a 12 or 15 can't play that high. The room and placement plays a large role. | |||
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