Slaughter House Cinemas (Project Thread)

**salvasol** · **07-18-08, 02:42 PM**

Quote:

bpape wrote:

I'd say that's a steal. Signs of the weak economy I guess.

Bryan

Or a good negotiator

**bpape** · **07-18-08, 04:23 PM**

Well, that too

Bryan

**carls64** · **07-18-08, 05:34 PM**

Can someone tell me that since it does not matter how far back I place the projector, based on the projector central calculator for an 120 screen I can be as far back as 24'6" for that size screen. That places the lens just inside the back wall. Wonder if I can place it in the wall or behind it a bit and project the full length of the room? I have an 11" 1/2" soffet to go around and probably have to be careful that peoples heads do not obstruct the view. But the Panasonic 200U has a movable lense to compensate for placement. The room is at 6'7 1/2" where the duck is, that is from about 14' and extends back 5' (Finished). Problem is it says (riser calculator) that I need to be up 15" (at least) for the rear seating. Let see, that may not work unless the dispersion is minimal in the first 10 feet. Not sure if I am better with the camera in front or above the first row seat of behind or above the rear row seating. This is all making me crazy!

**carls64** · **07-18-08, 05:35 PM**

Quote:

salvasol wrote:

Or a good negotiator

A friend of a Nephew ;-)

**bpape** · **07-18-08, 05:45 PM**

Again, don't push all the way to the edge of the zoom. The other option is to do a false wall and bring the screen forward 2'. That MIGHT let you do what you want and stay away from the edge.

Another option is to build a soffit and hide the PJ in there. That'll gain you some room and an easy way to hide wiring.

Bryan

**carls64** · **07-18-08, 06:04 PM**

Ok here is an updated diagram, with measurements. I am starting to get a little concerned about the projector location as if I place it all the way back to the 24' mark (23' if I move the wall back a foot) that the dispersion will intersect with peoples heads! Take a look and give me your recommendations. (North is the side with the entry door (top))

Ht Room Layout Before Construction

Click the image again to get a full size view.

**carls64** · **07-18-08, 06:15 PM**

Quote:

bpape wrote:

Again, don't push all the way to the edge of the zoom. The other option is to do a false wall and bring the screen forward 2'. That MIGHT let you do what you want and stay away from the edge.

We may end up bringing the east wall (screen wall) in around 11-12" to enclose the drain pipe, that will shorten the room by nearly a foot.

Quote:

bpape wrote:

Another option is to build a soffit and hide the PJ in there. That'll gain you some room and an easy way to hide wiring.

I am working with a very limited ceiling clearance, the soffet is killing me brings down the ceiling to 6'7 1/2" then I have to worry about clearing peoples heads!

**bpape** · **07-18-08, 06:47 PM**

Soffit in the back will be behind the seating area hopefully so headroom isn't an issue.

Bryan

**salvasol** · **07-18-08, 07:08 PM**

Quote:

bpape wrote:

Soffit in the back will be behind the seating area hopefully so headroom isn't an issue. Bryan

What about the soffit above the first row???

**bpape** · **07-18-08, 07:09 PM**

Why would you want one there? Soffits generally are only around the perimeter of the room.

Bryan

**salvasol** · **07-18-08, 09:52 PM**

Quote:

bpape wrote:

Why would you want one there? Soffits generally are only around the perimeter of the room. Bryan

You see what happens when you don't explain things???

What I meant to say was, to build a box to install the projector or maybe just hang the projector avobe or just behind the first row, so he doesn't have to worry about people banging their heads on the projector ...

**bpape** · **07-19-08, 11:58 AM**

lol. Gotcha. I just read it wrong. That's doable I guess. I was just trying to facilitate it going back farther as was mentioned.

Bryan

**carls64** · **07-19-08, 02:48 PM**

Quote:

salvasol wrote:

:What I meant to say was, to build a box to install the projector or maybe just hang the projector above or just behind the first row, so he doesn't have to worry about people banging their heads on the projector ...

That looks like its going to be the best position as I am going to move the drain, as seen in this shot:
As far back as I can get it, that will take up with furring (2x4 on side) about 6" then I can get back 15' to clear the I-Beam and duct work HERE as there is about 15" where I can place the mount. This will put the front row right below the projector. HERE you can see the detail of the location where the projector will be mounted, a front view facing away from the projector the middle of the room is where the floor joist that is in the middle of the photo HERE. I am still debating on bringing the wall forward around the drain or just boxing it in. If I measure so my eye level (36" in my sofa, that I am using currently for the front row) and I measure 1/3 up on the screen that puts the screen about 16" off the floor! With the top of the screen at 75" That puts the top of the screen right beneath the soffet for the drain, and would I suppose make a nice top valance for the screen?

Does anyone know is the measurements on the screen take in account of the frame, or is the 120" for example not include the frame? So if the screen is 59" its actually 61" for a 2" frame, and 111" for the width, if that is what it is then I will be only 14" from the floor and not perfectly 1/3 up on the screen at eye level.

If I knew this was going to be this hard I think I would have thought twice about starting this LOL.

I received my projector Friday! along with the mount and cable si I may hook it up and see what things look like ;-)

**carls64** · **07-19-08, 03:19 PM**

Quote:

carls64 wrote:

Does anyone know is the measurements on the screen take in account of the frame, or is the 120" for example not include the frame? So if the screen is 59" its actually 61" for a 2" frame, and 111" for the width, if that is what it is then I will be only 14" from the floor and not perfectly 1/3 up on the screen at eye level.

Looks like the ezFrame Screen has a 3" frame so that changes things yet again, not instead of 59" high the total screen size is 65" so, if I get the drain against the wall and up against the ceiling I have the frame against the top, I have the fur down 2" for the water pipes, that leaves me with a 7'5" ceiling but the soffet around the drain will be only 6" so I am going to just move the pipe against the wall, that will shorten the room by 6" but at the 15' mark I will be in good shape to mount the projector, and be at about 1.65 of 2.0x on my zoom keeping me back 35% away from my zoom? Does that sound right?

**salvasol** · **07-19-08, 04:52 PM**

Quote:

carls64 wrote:

... Does anyone know is the measurements on the screen take in account of the frame, or is the 120" for example not include the frame? So if the screen is 59" its actually 61" for a 2" frame, and 111" for the width, if that is what it is then I will be only 14" from the floor and not perfectly 1/3 up on the screen at eye level....

I dont think it uses the frame around the screen ... I'm sure that you have to measure from the point where you'll get the picture

... we'll wait to see what the experts say

Quote:

...If I knew this was going to be this hard I think I would have thought twice about starting this LOL.... ;-)

It'll be worth it ... when you start enjoying your new HT you'll forget all this troubles.

Just be prepared because after you finish the room ... you'll keep upgrading/changing everything again

... this is a non-stop hobby

**carls64** · **07-19-08, 09:23 PM**

Quote:

salvasol wrote:

Just be prepared because after you finish the room ... you'll keep upgrading/changing everything again

... this is a non-stop hobby

My wife is going to kill me

**carls64** · **07-19-08, 09:26 PM**

Well the pipe is moved, but I forgot you have to have some room to get the fittings on so I was able to finagle 1/2" less than what I hoped for, the wall will now be 6 1/2" from the concrete wall, so I am only 1/2" off from what I wanted ;-)

I have to get rid of the old electrical boxes on the south wall now so the contractor can start framing on Monday.

I hope to set up the projector tonight and see where I stand in regard to a mount point. And just to see how it it works ;-)

**carls64** · **07-20-08, 02:49 PM**

I took some more photos last night of the room and equipment, HERE (page 4) is where O moved the drain pipe, so I am bout 3/4" from the wall now so the contractor can build the wall in front of it about 6 1/2" finished out. This will allow me to be withing the sweat spot for the projector at about 15'6" and to clear the I-Beam and duct work (in between).

I also took some photos of the "gear" and the Panasonic 200U Projector. HERE Also I was able to take a few shots of the images produced by the 200U, I placed a all white Studio backdrop made of some sort of flat opaque material, not ideal for projector screen use, with that said I think the picture looked great! Then I realized I was watching 480p resolution! Then I turned it to 1080i output (From a DishTV HD Receiver) and I was blown away! I have a Samsung 1080p 50,000:1 52" TV in the living room, and I have to say Even on this imperfect screen I had made I was very impressed, no pixilation, crystal clear even at about 3 foot away! I can't wait to get the screen and see what it looks like then.

I think everything is read for the contractor to come in Monday and start framing. I will have some more photos tomorrow!

**salvasol** · **07-20-08, 03:31 PM**

Congratulations ...

Those pictures look nice ... by the way: What size was the picture??? ... same size that you're planning on using??? ... I think that you can play with your equipment to find the best size

**carls64** · **07-20-08, 03:49 PM**

Quote:

salvasol wrote:

Congratulations ...

Those pictures look nice ... by the way: What size was the picture??? ... same size that you're planning on using??? ... I think that you can play with your equipment to find the best size

140" bigger than my screen

so I didn't watch it long so I didn't get spoiled

I think I am going to be alright with my projector position based on what I saw, As I have a good amount of zoom (both directions) from that position. I am somewhat Limited with my seating option using couches but it is all I have right now

I will keep the pictures coming!

**carls64** · **07-21-08, 10:45 AM**

Quote:

salvasol wrote:

Did you already purchased the Polk 6750??? ... they're okay to start, but if you can get something with a better frequency response it will be better (speakers go from 135Hz to 24KHz, you need at least 60Hz-20Khz for the front so you don't have to upgrade to soon

)

I did the same (I got Infinity TSS750 120Hz-20Khz) and in less than a year I started changing speakers ... specially the front L +R + C

I am not sure they will let me return the Polk's because it has been about 3+ weeks but maybe, what do you recommend. or anyone recommend that I can get in the $500 price range or less. I paid only $275 for the Polk system. But I knew to begin with that those would only be temporary. I found a set of F+C DCM speakers at a resale shop, but was not for sure if they would be any better? They are the DCM-16S and DCM16C (Center Chanel) and a DCM TB1 I can get the whole set (look like new) for about $200 or less. I listen to them all and they all seem to be in good shape.

**salvasol** · **07-21-08, 01:54 PM**

Quote:

carls64 wrote:

I am not sure they will let me return the Polk's because it has been about 3+ weeks but maybe, what do you recommend. or anyone recommend that I can get in the $500 price range or less. I paid only $275 for the Polk system. But I knew to begin with that those would only be temporary. I found a set of F+C DCM speakers at a resale shop, but was not for sure if they would be any better? They are the DCM-16S and DCM16C (Center Chanel) and a DCM TB1 I can get the whole set (look like new) for about $200 or less. I listen to them all and they all seem to be in good shape.

Most companies have a 30 day return policy, try that ... or you can sell it online or to somebody interested in them and maybe profit a little

I saw the DCM specifications ... compared to Polk, they're better (55Hz to 20KHz), subwoofer is the weakest link (42Hz-160Hz); but you can start with that and later upgrade to a better sub (SVS, HSU

) ... specially with a killer price like that

**carls64** · **07-21-08, 02:45 PM**

I swung by there on my lunch hour and looked at them and the 16S's were in perfect shape same for the 16C Center channel. The sub looked like it had been used but they guaranteed it worked fine the sub surround is rubber and it was perfect. I got them both (2x16S, 1x16C, TB1) for $200. I have purchased stuff from this place before and never have been unsatisfied. Internet price for the Speakers are $120 for the 16S's and $90 for the 16C and $150 for the TB1 so looks like I got a decent deal for $200 I should be able to get $150 out of them when I am ready to upgrade. ;-) I will use these for my Front and Center / Sub (maybe I could use both the Polk Powered Sub and the TB1 ;-)) and the Polk's for the Surround and rears! I was going to need two more speakers for to complete the 7.1 anyhow ;-)

**salvasol** · **07-21-08, 05:45 PM**

Congratulations!!!!

Yes you can start with that set up and upgrade little by little

Wait a minute ... How will you be able to upgrade??? ... What about this???

Quote:

Carls64 wrote:

My wife is going to kill me

...

There's a lot of member using at least two subs in their HT ... including me

**carls64** · **07-21-08, 06:00 PM**

She has to catch me first!

I have to say she is being very supportive in this venture.

The contractor has been at the house all day today, I went home for lunch and he had over 1/2 of the framing done, he ran out of 2x4's and had to go get more. I am hoping he will have it almost completely framed when I get home tonight so I can start running wires.

I will have some more pictures posted later tonight of the progress.

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