Slaughter House Cinemas (Project Thread)

**carls64** · **07-22-08, 12:14 PM**

Well I didn't get as far as a would have liked doing the wiring so I am going to take a half day off from work to get it done before the contractor wants to insulate.

I spent about an hour figing out the location of the speakers. I used 15' as the sweet spot and use the Dolby True HD guide and placed the surround (side) speakers at 90/110 deg from the front rown, this places them between t he first and second row.

The rear channel is at 60 from center (30 to the left, 30 to the right, its fine on the south side but the north side there is no wall so I will need to mount on the ceiling.

Front channel should be 45 degrees from center and they match up almost perfectly in the corners of the east wall (screen obviously), center channel will be beneigh the screen along with the IR Repeater, go to be sure I do not obscure the IR Repeater with the speaker :-O

Sub(s) will go in the corners on the floor/stage when built.

Next is the wall sconces, I am having a of a time figuring out where to place those. I tried eye evel but that seems a little low, so I will go just above (my) eye level, but the position in the room I am not sure, I was going to go 8 foot apart, but I was not sure how far away from the screen I needed / should be. Any thoughts. If I come back 8 foot from the wall, you will be able to see them out of the corner of you eye and I am not sure I like that. Also I do not want them too close to the side channel speakers. Any help would be appreciated.

No time currently to post photos, but I am taking pictures throughout the whole process.

**salvasol** · **07-22-08, 12:58 PM**

I think you need to ask yourself ... What is the purpose of the sconces???

Aesthetic, light the room, add ambience (you'll use a dimmer to lower the light but won't turn off completely), etc. ... based on that you'll find the correct spot.

When I build my HT room, I installed track lights, those are turned on just for entering the room ... when movie is on light go out (lights are in the side wall near the back of the room); I also installed rope lights to the riser to leave it on during movies so people don't fall ... I have never used them (rope light), TV gives enough light to walk in/out of the room during movies)

**carls64** · **07-22-08, 01:07 PM**

Its mostly to ad ambient room light and for looks mostly. They will be on dimmers.

**salvasol** · **07-22-08, 02:15 PM**

Quote:

carls64 wrote:

Its mostly to ad ambient room light and for looks mostly. They will be on dimmers.

I'm trying to access your pictures ... I can't

Quote:

... Next is the wall sconces, ... I will go just above (my) eye level, but the position in the room I am not sure, I was going to go 8 foot apart, but I was not sure how far away from the screen I needed / should be... Also I do not want them too close to the side channel speakers.

Is there any way you can connect the sconce and try different places before permanently installing them??? ... so you'll know how they will look and how well they will light the room???

How many do you plan to install??? ... maybe one on each side wall be enough

**bpape** · **07-22-08, 03:05 PM**

Be very careful with sconces anywhere in the front half of the room. If you put them there, make **** sure you can turn them completely off while leaving other ones on so you don't wash out the screen. It doesn't take a lot of light up front to ruin a picture.

Bryan

**carls64** · **07-23-08, 09:31 AM**

Quote:

salvasol wrote:

I'm trying to access your pictures ... I can't

Its working again, I restarted that server and forgot to enable the web server

Well I pulled an all nighter to complete the wiring, I think I have the wall sconces in a good place and to answer one question they are on their own circuit and will be dimmable and on/off.

I have a 50' RCA Cable running to both the left and right sides of the screen area (in case I want to use two subs), FR, Center, FL, I believe I have my surrounds in the correct location, as well as my rear channels. The Front left and right are 45 deg with the "sweet spot" of 15' from the screen, the rears are 60 deg, and the sides are about 110, aligned with the center between the 1st and second row.

More to come and photos.

**carls64** · **07-23-08, 10:01 AM**

Forgot to say (I am tired with only having 2 hours sleep, and have to work a whole day) the contractor is insulating this morning, and we go get drywall tonight and he starts dry walling tomorrow. He feels that he can get the drywall in tomorrow and start taping and muding on Friday. He wants to work Saturday and Sunday and he feels that by Monday evening I should be able to start paining!
I think this will be a record for getting a Home Theater done in the shortest time frame? Start to finish (room) in 1 Week?

**salvasol** · **07-23-08, 01:32 PM**

Quote:

carls64 wrote:

I think this will be a record for getting a Home Theater done in the shortest time frame? Start to finish (room) in 1 Week?

Then comes the fun part ... set up, play movie ... set up again, play movies ... then tweek again, play movies ... upgrade something ... set up, play movies ... and keep going and going

**carls64** · **07-23-08, 02:44 PM**

The insulation is in, he started at 8:30am and was done at 12:30pm We are going tonight to get the dry wall. I am SO tired.

**titch--** · **07-23-08, 05:40 PM**

You can sleep next month.

**bpape** · **07-23-08, 06:00 PM**

It'll all be worth it soon enough. Hang in there.

Bryan

**salvasol** · **07-23-08, 07:15 PM**

Quote:

titch-- wrote:

You can sleep next month.

Just don't do it during movies

**carls64** · **07-23-08, 11:57 PM**

Ok now that the wiring is done there is not much more for me to do other than wait for the contractor to lay the dry wall and finish it. He starts tomorrow on the Drywall at 8am.

Here are the photos from Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday.

Monday - Begin Framing
Tuesday - Finish framing and begin wiring
Wednesday - Completed wiring and insulation

More to come tomorrow!

**carls64** · **07-25-08, 03:11 PM**

Well the dry wall in mostly complete, he should start taping and muddling later this afternoon. I asked him hypothetically how much he would charge to pain the room, and he will now be painting the room for me, as I can't touch it for $125, I have to buy the paint obviously ;-)

I told my wife I was going to paint the ceiling black, and she said why not pain the whole room black ;-) Not sure I will like that but who knows it would save me from having to decide on a color LOL

Now I am deciding if I want to paint the walls a dark blue or dark red (black cherry). I am going to be putting in some new carpet as well. Currently it has a charcoal gray felt carpet, that was good for Min-Z RC cars ;-) and I had planned on just using that for now, but after the framing was done it was obvious that the carpet we going to be a pain to clean up, I should have taken it up before he started ;-)

We picked up the doors last night as well, I have a 32" steel entry door that has full insulation and full weatherstripping. I had budgeted $120 for a door, and I found this one for $88 at Home Depot, however it has holes for both a door knob and deadbolt, I wanted only a single home. So I bought a cheep deadbolt/door know set for it. We are installing it so the door opens outward from the room and thus is inset.

I am still not sure what to do about a stage and a rear seating riser. I don;t really have the funds right now not the seating so for now I suppose I will just wait for those. I do not have any real idea on what I want up front yet so I can add those later. As I have been told this is a never ending project so I guess I will just take my time once the main part is complete and I have a functioning HT.

**salvasol** · **07-25-08, 04:01 PM**

Quote:

carls64 wrote:

I told my wife I was going to paint the ceiling black, and she said why not pain the whole room black ;-) Not sure I will like that but who knows it would save me from having to decide on a color LOL

You're lucky ... most of the time they don't want to even hear "dark color"

I suggest you to take her and choose a color; or you can sit down and scroll through the forum for pictures and show her; it doesn't have to be black ... just a dark color to avoid the light reflection

I've seen blue, gray, green and of course my color burgandy

Will you be using fiberglass to cover the whole front wall??? ... if you are, you don't need to paint it, just use speaker cloth or any transparent fabric to cover the fiberglass and you'll be fine.

Quote:

I am still not sure what to do about a stage and a rear seating riser. I don;t really have the funds right now not the seating so for now I suppose I will just wait for those. I do not have any real idea on what I want up front yet so I can add those later. As I have been told this is a never ending project so I guess I will just take my time once the main part is complete and I have a functioning HT.

If you have plans for a riser, maybe is a good idea to don't carpet the whole room (to me it will be a waste of money), it will look odd ... but Why you want to install carpet and then cut it and throw it away??? ... maybe is better to get some 2"x4"'s instead and start building the raiser little by little

**carls64** · **07-28-08, 03:03 PM**

Its been a couple days now and the drywall is prepped for painting, the contractor comes back this evening to put in the doors and spray the primer. The finished texture on the walls "orange peal" looks great and thus it required little to no sanding in most areas (he is a good mudder ;-)).

I have been running the dehumidifier in the room constantly so the area is kept very dry during this period so things dry evenly and quickly.

I have decided on my colors, please comment or recommend any thing that should be changed?

The ceiling and screen wall will be flat black. The side walls and rear of the room will be a dark Burgundy I think its called ruby quartz. It looks black when the lights are turned down low. It is flat as well.

For now I am going to pick up a piece of black "felt" carpet with no backing (it is similar to what had been down there at the start of the project, but in black) It has little to no reflectivity. I will have about 37'x12' of it so I could cover the entire floor with it but I am going to stop short of the back at 24' that should bring it from the screen wall to the equipment rack wall and leave me with severla feet left over. I am going to use carpet tape to tape the edges so I can pull it up later to build the stage and riser later on.

So in short, black ceiling, screen wall, and floor. dark Burgundy walls. I hope it looks nice ;-) more photos to follow soon.

**salvasol** · **07-28-08, 03:18 PM**

Quote:

carls64 wrote:

So in short, black ceiling, screen wall, and floor. dark Burgundy walls. I hope it looks nice ;-) more photos to follow soon.

I'm sure it will look good ...

Are you planning to kill the front wall with fiberglass??? ... that will help with accoustics too, and instead of painting the wall; you can use speaker fabric or any transparent fabric (black)

Edit: I know is not the same as using fiberglass, but I'm sure it helps (I did it on my HT) ... you can use ceiling accoustic tiles (http://www.armstrong.com/resclgam/na...itemId=45147.0 ) just paint them black ...

**carls64** · **07-28-08, 03:55 PM**

Quote:

salvasol wrote:

Are you planning to kill the front wall with fiberglass??? ... that will help with acoustics too, and instead of painting the wall; you can use speaker fabric or any transparent fabric (black) :huh

Reading back through the posts I think you asked that before but I was rude and never answered

, sorry.

All the walls are pinked and t hen dry wall is that what you mean?

I am sure I will need some acoustical treatments throughout, and maybe a base tube?

I am planning a stage (small/short) and a riser in the future. Also have been toying with the idea of making pillars on either side of the screen and bottom to hid the speakers and subs.

**bpape** · **07-28-08, 03:58 PM**

Generally, in a multi-channel environment, the front wall is absorbtive for a couple of different reasons:

- Deal with bass response anomolies if the speakers are relatively close and avoid issues with SBIR

- Absorb reflections from the surround speakers so they don't reflect and mix with the front soundstage and blur the imaging.

You're also going to want a reasonable amount of broadband bass control as well as some way to deal with the side wall reflections.

Bryan

**carls64** · **07-28-08, 04:03 PM**

Quote:

bpape wrote:

Generally, in a multi-channel environment, the front wall is absorbtive for a couple of different reasons

Based on what I have what would you recommend keeping in mind I have little to no budget left

**bpape** · **07-28-08, 04:17 PM**

Find a supply house that carries 4.5lb mineral wool. That's probably the cheapest (though not the easiest to work with) material to use.

Make some triangular chunk style absorbers for the front corners and finish off the rest of the wall with some 2" covered in cloth. You can DIY this pretty reasonably.

Bryan

**carls64** · **07-28-08, 04:36 PM**

Where is Mineral/Rock wool usually sold? Home Depot or Lowes do not seem to carry it.

**salvasol** · **07-28-08, 04:41 PM**

Quote:

carls64 wrote:

... Home Depot or Lowes do not seem to carry it.

You're right!!!

... maybe Bryan can help you here, I'm sure he can sell you what you need

**bpape** · **07-28-08, 05:50 PM**

Try either your local insulation supply house or potentially a metal building supplier.

Where is Fontana?

Bryan

**salvasol** · **07-28-08, 09:09 PM**

Quote:

bpape wrote:

Where is Fontana?

Bryan

We're about 60 miles east of Los Angeles in San Bernardino County.

We have the famous California Speedway (I don't know if you like races, but at least twice a year they have NASCAR, Indy 500 or some of those popular races ... I'm not into that, so I can't tell

)

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