Cedar Creek Cinema II

**Sonnie** · **01-28-09, 09:01 PM**

That's where having had an HT room in the garage before comes in handy.

But yeah... we plan to tear out most everything and start fresh anyway. We will be looking for things such as that.

**robbo266317** · **01-30-09, 03:25 AM**

The company who did the house plans for us are now in receivership.

Hopefully someone will take them over... It's lucky that we are still waiting for council to approve the plans and not part way through the build.
It was going to be this one modified so the double garage was my music room. (I already have a two story double garage at the rear of the property - it's a corner block 60 foot by 120 foot)
pics here:- http://www.wincrest.com.au/HouseFacade.asp?HouseID=35#

**Sonnie** · **01-30-09, 08:01 AM**

Yep... now we know who has the money on this forum...

**robbo266317** · **01-30-09, 03:40 PM**

Quote:

Sonnie wrote:

Yep... now we know who has the money on this forum...

I wish that was the case!

**Prof.** · **01-30-09, 05:21 PM**

Very nice robbo!!

**Sonnie** · **02-05-09, 11:41 PM**

Guys... I am a bit concerned about the truss system being able to hold the ceiling weight in the HT room.

I did some measuring and it is already sagging about 3/4" from outside walls to center. Currently the garage is 24' x 25'. We will be reducing the 25' span to 19.5' when we add the HT wall. The 24' span will be reduced to 23'.

I can pick the wall back up some when I add the HT wall at the 19.5', but we are adding to the 1/2" sheetrock another 5/8" plywood plus another 5/8" sheetrock. That is going to add a LOT of weight. Then we will have the HAC unit up there, of which we can always move it over closer to the side, but still it is more weight on the truss system.

This is nothing more than a 2" x 4" truss system. Here are a few picks of the area above where the HT room will be.

There are two 2" x 4" boards forming an L shape running down the center of the trusses... not sure what that is all about.

What I was thinking is maybe adding a couple of 6" x 6" posts... or maybe a couple of 4" round steel post at the edge of the 3' step down next to the riser. This would be at about 2' off the center line of the trusses, but it would narrow the span from 19.5' to 13'. I don't think the post would be distracting at all... but maybe even add a little decor to the room.

Not really knowing much about truss systems... I am not sure what I am up against here, but I believe I would feel more comfortable adding the post.

Anyone have any ideas?

**Space** · **02-06-09, 12:58 AM**

Quote:

Sonnie wrote:

Guys... I am a bit concerned about the truss system being able to hold the ceiling weight in the HT room.

I did some measuring and it is already sagging about 3/4" from outside walls to center. Currently the garage is 24' x 25'. We will be reducing the 25' span to 19.5' when we add the HT wall. The 24' span will be reduced to 23'.

I can pick the wall back up some when I add the HT wall at the 19.5', but we are adding to the 1/2" sheetrock another 5/8" plywood plus another 5/8" sheetrock. That is going to add a LOT of weight. Then we will have the HAC unit up there, of which we can always move it over closer to the side, but still it is more weight on the truss system.

This is nothing more than a 2" x 4" truss system. Here are a few picks of the area above where the HT room will be.

There are two 2" x 4" boards forming an L shape running down the center of the trusses... not sure what that is all about.

What I was thinking is maybe adding a couple of 6" x 6" posts... or maybe a couple of 4" round steel post at the edge of the 3' step down next to the riser. This would be at about 2' off the center line of the trusses, but it would narrow the span from 19.5' to 13'. I don't think the post would be distracting at all... but maybe even add a little decor to the room.

Not really knowing much about truss systems... I am not sure what I am up against here, but I believe I would feel more comfortable adding the post.

Anyone have any ideas?

Sonnie, you are a smart man for wondering about your truss roof.

The sagging of your truss system is evidence that there has been additional load on the truss not engineered into the original specification. This notion is supported by the plywood decking added most likely for storage on top of the bottom 2X4 truss cord. It is a common reason for sagging. That and installing mechanical units in the overhead.

As you mentioned, this is a 2X4 system. The reason this truss works with 2X4 where you might think 2X6 or 2X8 would be is because of the truss design. By design, the load is shared by all wood members of the individual trusses. Any forces that apply pressure to the truss, the truss distributes the pressure thru the webbing and to the bottom cord and outward to the wall plate area.

In your case you have a fink truss. That "L" shape 2by material going down the center is called a "strong back". It is in place to do several things. One is to help align the bottom cords at the install and to maintain the truss lay-out. The other is another means to distribute or share any pressure applied to the roof system.

Your curiosity about if this design can hold additional weight is wise. Another issue, just for you, is how close to hurricane alley are you? Pressurization of a building under extreme conditions can create failure under the best engineered design. Add additional weight and all the specs change.

My goal is to help you understand some of the things you are addressing, I hope this is received well as such.

Brien

**robbo266317** · **02-06-09, 01:39 AM**

I was renovating a rental property and the front bedroom was about 12 foot by 14 foot and it had a similar layout except its sag was 1 1/2" at the centre. I had to run a 14 foot 2x6 across the middle of the room to pull it back up.
That was without any additional loading on it!

**Space** · **02-06-09, 01:55 AM**

Quote:

robbo266317 wrote:

I was renovating a rental property and the front bedroom was about 12 foot by 14 foot and it had a similar layout except its sag was 1 1/2" at the centre. I had to run a 14 foot 2x6 across the middle of the room to pull it back up.
That was without any additional loading on it!

You shored up a 1 and 1/2 inch sag in a truss roof in a 12 foot span?

**robbo266317** · **02-06-09, 02:06 AM**

It had old "horse hair plaster" which weighs a ton. Not quite co much sag once it was gone. Plus one of the 2x4's had a crack and had to be replaced as well. I'm at work so I can't post any pics.
I removed it and put up lightweight ceiling gyprock. (drywall)

**Sonnie** · **02-06-09, 08:43 AM**

I could... in theory... add an LVL from one wall to the other near the center line where the "strongback" runs, but I really do not feel comfortable about messing with the truss system at all. The last thing I need is the roof caving in above us because of my ignorance.

I think what I might do is take the sheetrock ceiling out. I already have new walls being installed on each end of the 23' span. Then install new 2 x 6 joist supported by these new walls running those up and in between the current joist, with the bottom of the 2 x 6 about 2.5" below the current joist. Then add the weight to the new ceiling joist.

The next question is can a 24' span of 2 x 6 support that same two layers of material, the 5/8" plywood and 5/8" sheetrock? I think I will need a beam in the middle to support those.

This is not looking good at all for my ceiling height.

**Sonnie** · **02-06-09, 06:49 PM**

I finally spoke with the company that built my trusses. The first gentleman has been with the company forever, not an engineer, but knows his stuff. He stated I will have no problems adding the extra 5/8" plywood and 5/8" sheetrock to the current ceiling. However, he gave me the phone number to the engineer and stated I could call him to verify if it would make me feel more comfortable. So I did... I was able to speak directly with the engineer. This truss system is what they consider a very minor span of only 24'. He stated it would take about 800 pounds per square foot to cause that truss system to give any. He also stated it could easily handle the extra weight.

I asked him about adding an LVL in line with the "strong tie" (as he called it) from one support wall to the other and tying in to the current truss system just to keep if from deflating any further. He stated it would not hurt anything. He stated it was not necessary, but if I wanted to do it that it would indeed give more strength to the truss system. He also stated that adding a few 2 x 4's from the center peak to the top of the LVL would add additional strength, although again it is not necessary.

I had another guy come over who stick frames houses... he agreed, no problems, but he did think the LVL would be a good idea just to be on the safe side, especially since we are going to have 4 x 18" subwoofers and 2 x 15" subwoofers in the room... which will be like a real earthquake during some like War of the Worlds.

**salvasol** · **02-06-09, 06:58 PM**

Quote:

Sonnie wrote:

... the LVL would be a good idea just to be on the safe side, especially since we are going to have 4 x 18" subwoofers and 2 x 15" subwoofers in the room... which will be like a real earthquake during some like War of the Worlds.

Did you mentioned that to the engineer???

Remember "Better safe than sorry", if you can reinforce the structure (even if not necessary), I'll say "Do it"

**Sonnie** · **02-06-09, 07:05 PM**

Yeah... he is the one that suggested I could even add the center peak support to the LVL if I wanted to add integrity to the truss system. I think it is the safest route to take.

**Sonnie** · **02-11-09, 11:25 PM**

Construction pics...

You know you are a redneck... when you have to use a lamp on top of your refrigerator in the garage

...

Evidence of Cedar Creek Cinema of old... where the riser was siliconed to the floor...

Some of the preparing for construction pics... after the garage doors are taken down... demolition...

Of course when you take the entire garage, you have to make a new spot for momma to park her ride (ok... and daddy too

)...

Hmmm... but if we take up the entire garage, how will we get into the house without getting wet when it's raining? Ahhh... make a walkway (yes it will be covered). This was my first real experience with concrete, but it was rather simple and somewhat fun...

We got started on the wall today... and finished the plywood on the ceiling...

Our plans are to finish up on the walls and get started with the wiring over the weekend.

Still a long ways to go though...

**salvasol** · **02-12-09, 02:20 PM**

Quote:

Sonnie wrote:

Thank you for the pictures ...

I'm curious ....Who's ride is in the background???

**Wayne A. Pflughaupt** · **02-12-09, 02:47 PM**

More important, where is the CD changer and sub?

Regards,
Wayne

**robbo266317** · **02-12-09, 03:13 PM**

Nice leather seats too...

**Sonnie** · **02-12-09, 03:23 PM**

lol... you guys are crazy!

**brandonnash** · **02-14-09, 08:58 AM**

Quote:

Sonnie wrote:

You know you are a redneck... when you have to use a lamp on top of your refrigerator in the garage

...

guilty

**Sonnie** · **02-14-09, 11:17 PM**

Well... I did install a light for the hallway entrance today, so the lamp will be put up for a camping trip.

Worked all day on the room. Got all but part of one wall framed, which is one of the garage door openings. I believe I will get the sheetrock and plywood unloaded in the garage before framing it up. Hopefully I can get that done Monday and then get started on the riser and electrical.

**Rodny Alvarez** · **02-26-09, 08:39 AM**

Hey Sonnie!

are you going to build one of this in your theater??

**Sonnie** · **02-26-09, 01:18 PM**

Hmmm... I might better pass on that one.

**Space** · **02-26-09, 11:32 PM**

Wonder where a fella could get the plans for one of those?

**Sonnie** · **02-26-09, 11:50 PM**

... and a second mortgage... not only for the project, but for the wine too!

Of course, someone building that doesn't really need a mortgage do they.

They got it already...

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