lgl`s soundproof HT

**Ted White** · **10-08-09, 05:08 PM**

Hi lgl.

I'm still not sure what the stringers are doing for you other than stiffening surfaces you'l like to have more flexible.

As far as which lumber to use, I would not consider less than 2x6. Your ceiling could sag or worse.

**lglura** · **10-08-09, 05:51 PM**

Hi Ted. Stringers in the walls and roof ensuring that it does not bend when the timber dries,
and because it is stiffer, I've compensated by using thinner studs (2" 3"). The walls are not very stiff.
The walls have different mass and flexibility, the wall behind is not made with stringers and the timber is 2" 4". I hope this structure functions as bass traps with different resonances.
(forgive me if my English is poor

)

**Ted White** · **10-08-09, 05:53 PM**

Thanks. English is great, actually and thanks for continuing to share your build with us!

**lglura** · **10-08-09, 06:14 PM**

Of course I will share my build with the shack, and thanks for your help Ted, it has been a major contribution.

**lglura** · **10-12-09, 05:14 PM**

The floiting joist is finished, stringers is not to make the joist stiffer but to prevent it to bends when they dries. I used 1.5" x 6" timber. All are on the straight line.
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Has created a cutting board to cut the insulation, this simplifies the customization.
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**MatrixDweller** · **10-14-09, 12:40 AM**

If you're going to drywall the ceiling you should put it up first before you do the walls. That way the walls drywall gives a little support to the ceiling drywall. After the ceiling then you do the upper wall with full sheets then the lower wall with sheets cut to fit with factory edges always joining another factory edge. That makes taping and mudding a lot easier.

The stringers in the walls are used to stop fire (if one were to occur) from spreading up the wall cavity. They are not necessary if the cavity is filled with mineral wool. 2x4 is standard for stud walls but you can use 2x3s on non supporting walls and even 2x2s on a basement wall like furring strips. Even with spacers in the walls they can still warp. A little bit of warp isn't going to hurt much. The drywall in place with screws will prevent some of that.

Having the spacers in there isn't going to hurt anything. It's just going to make it harder to stuff with insulation.

Just my 2 cents

**lglura** · **10-18-09, 05:20 PM**

Quote:

MatrixDweller wrote:

If you're going to drywall the ceiling you should put it up first before you do the walls. That way the walls drywall gives a little support to the ceiling drywall. After the ceiling then you do the upper wall with full sheets then the lower wall with sheets cut to fit with factory edges always joining another factory edge. That makes taping and mudding a lot easier.

The stringers in the walls are used to stop fire (if one were to occur) from spreading up the wall cavity. They are not necessary if the cavity is filled with mineral wool. 2x4 is standard for stud walls but you can use 2x3s on non supporting walls and even 2x2s on a basement wall like furring strips. Even with spacers in the walls they can still warp. A little bit of warp isn't going to hurt much. The drywall in place with screws will prevent some of that.

Having the spacers in there isn't going to hurt anything. It's just going to make it harder to stuff with insulation.

Just my 2 cents

Thanks, i will follow your recommendation, and there is much work to cut the insulation.
lglura

**lglura** · **10-18-09, 05:26 PM**

Got the package with Green Glue yesterday, hope it's worth the price, it was very expensive

**MatrixDweller** · **10-18-09, 11:12 PM**

Quote:

lglura wrote:

Thanks, i will follow your recommendation, and there is much work to cut the insulation.
lglura

Best cutter is a long serrated blade (ie: Ginsu knife) or a fine toothed saw.

Wear gloves a mask and a long sleeved shirt and maybe even goggles if putting cut pieces overhead. They say Rockwool is less itchy than fiberglass but I found it worse. I should have taped my sleeves over my gloves. I had to take a cool shower afterward to get rid of the itch.

**rickp** · **10-20-09, 07:20 AM**

I found that our electric carving knife works great, I will never use a razor knife again!

**lglura** · **10-20-09, 08:56 AM**

I use a big razor knife, it is clean edges when cut, but I need to replace the blade frequently.

**lglura** · **11-08-09, 05:11 PM**

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Drywalls finished and sealed off, the doors are mounted on both walls.
I've found to my disappointment that this is not a soundproof room, therefore, is the name of the thread misleading. The room is very much better than before, but not soundproof, low frequencies can still sound between floors.

**lglura** · **11-13-09, 02:58 PM**

I find that Green Glue beginning to work, low-frequency noise from the floor above is more reduced for each day

**Ted White** · **11-13-09, 03:00 PM**

lgl, takes a few weeks to dry completely. It will get more and more dead wuth each day, as you're finding.

**lglura** · **11-13-09, 03:13 PM**

Hi Ted. This is good, I hear the difference already after 3 days.

**Ted White** · **11-13-09, 03:14 PM**

That's still early so if you're happy now, you'll be really happy later

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