Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

Receptacle boxes

5K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  glaufman 
#1 ·
This may be a dumb question; but here goes. When you guys used 2 layers of drywall did you offset your receptacle boxes to make up for the extra difference; and was there enough wood to nail into?
 
#2 ·
Re: Receptacal boxes

The boxes are usually flush with the first layer and you can use a spacer ring to make up for the second.

Another option is an adjustable depth box. You nail to the studs as usual, but then you have an adjustment screw to line up the final depth. These are bit pricier, but for variable depth stuff, they are worth it. I"ve used them for tile installs, since the backer+tile is often not exactly the depth of drywall or a spacer.
 
#6 ·
Re: Receptacal boxes

The boxes are usually flush with the first layer and you can use a spacer ring to make up for the second.

Another option is an adjustable depth box. You nail to the studs as usual, but then you have an adjustment screw to line up the final depth. These are bit pricier, but for variable depth stuff, they are worth it. I"ve used them for tile installs, since the backer+tile is often not exactly the depth of drywall or a spacer.
What he said. I used both depending on if it was "new construction" or adding a layer to an existing wall. Home Depot/Lowes sells both the box extender, and boxes you can adjust with a screw to bring the in and out so they are perfectly flush with the wall :T
 
#5 ·
Re: Receptacal boxes

You can also just use adjustable boxes available from any of the big box hardware stores. They'll give you almost 1" of adjustment.

Bryan
 
#7 ·
Re: Receptacal boxes

Hmmm... that gives me an idea for an existing project I've left unfinished for a few years in hopes that I would figure out how to make it meet code...
do the adjustable boxes come as the octagonal style? What's the range of depth?
 
#10 ·
Yeah, I've looked at them, and looked at them, and looked at them... I just don't think I'll queeze them into where theyhave to go, which is kind of why I dug out behind the boxes that are there now, which is why there's a gap to where the what covers the boxes is... Trouble is, unlike the extenders for 1gang boxes, the ones for the octagon are quite strong and ridgid...

I don't recall seeing octagonal adjustable boxes. Just single and dual box sizes. The whole purpose of hte code is to ensure nothing flammable/conductive could cause a fire. You might be able to use some type of PCV L-channel and cut/bend it into shape.
PVC is an interesting idea. Also, I might just be worried about nothing. Certainly nothing as a practical matter...

Basically I have a gap between the light that covers the box and the box itself. Per code, that has to be closed with a non-flammable material. But we're not talking about truly empty space here. This is in a box made out of vinyl siding material that's probably only about an inch away. It might be an inch gap, BTW.
 
#13 ·
Yeah, definitely need them for code. I've been in far too many houses, where the whole plug pushes in because the tiny tabs on the outlet no longer pinch against the drywall. In a proper install, they don't have do -- they rest on the box or box extender!

And when that happens, wires do come out. Just this week I saw an outlet that had the hot just floating in the box. Neutral and ground were wired to the receptacle. It must have popped off due to the slack in the box and I'm luck I didn't get a shock when I want to touch the metal cover plate. That kind of thing is rare, but it only takes one rare thing to burn your house down.
 
#14 ·
Its amazing what codes are in place for all sorts of things.
Ones I see people doing wrong all the time are covering up junction boxes completely with drywall, using extension cords up above ceilings or in walls, Using extension cord wire for actual wiring between boxes, and putting more than one wire into a single breaker inside the panel. All No No's.
 
#20 ·
When I was rewiring some of the recepticals in my home theater, I did the right thing and verified every plugin in the circuit was dead after turning it off at the circuit breaker using both a light and a volt meter. Unfortunately I discovered the hard way that the receptical box with the common back to the circuit breaker was also the same common for the (still live) smoke detector circuit. Different hots, same common :rant:

Moral: Be careful out there even when it was professionally built.
 
#16 ·
We have a guy here up In Canada that has a TV show called Holmes on Homes now called Holmes inspection that he shows all sorts of things contractors do wrong and he has to go in and fix them. Very scarry:rolleyesno:
 
#22 ·
Yes, the people who owned the house before me ran conduit on the outside, up the existing siding, for dawn/dusk security lights. conduit is now behind new siding, and lights (in some locations) are more decorative than anything else, and security elsewhere... everything is waterproofed, not a concern. Only concern is the code issue where there's a gap between the front opening of the box to the vinyl and then the light fixture that acts as the cover.

I suppose what I should do, now that the insulation is gone, is remount the electrical box, shimmed off the wall to where there won't be this gap. Not sure how the pros would've done it originally, but this mightbe my best bet now. Unless I can squeeze the proper extenders in.

Once agian, still not 100% sure it's a code violation as it is, can someone confirm?
 
#23 ·
If the box is outside and there is not a watertight, approved cover directly on the box and sealing it, it's a violation anywhere I can think of.

Bryan
 
#24 ·
I'm afraid I'm not communicating very clearly. It's all water tight. As for water, the gap is protected by the vinyl decorative box. The question becomes whether the vinyl siding material is considered flammable.
 
#25 ·
My fault. Ther has to be a watertight cover directly attached to the box. You have a gap that's outside the structure between the 2, even if it's behind siding.

Bryan
 
#26 ·
Please excuse me for being so dense this week... (can't tell the difference...)
The way I see it...
Ideally, the electrical box would've gone on the wall before the siding box, and it would've bene the perfect depth for the light's mounting panel to sit flush on it. Voila! Meets code, yes?

So, the way I see it, the only way this is not to code is that the "cover" on the box leaves a gap between the cover and the box. So an extender the right depth would make it to code, yes?
 
#27 ·
I would think so, but with outdoor, you need to make sure it is sealed as well.

I'm having a similar issue with an exterior outlet box. The "code" flip cover won't fit because of the siding box, but an extension ring may not seal right. I'd rather not hack up my siding, but I'd also like a box that doesn't invite a sideways rain right into the house :)

A picture would probably be worth at least 1000 words here to make sure. But remember, I'm not a licensed electrician (low voltage, yes, electrician, no :( )

If you need advanced electrician knowledge, go to Mike Holt's forum. You'll get a lot of 'get a pro to do it' responses, but usually a few folks will chime in on what's code and what needs to be fixed.
 
#28 ·
Well, I actually consulted an electrician before I embarked on this, regarding a slightly different subject (the issue I'm now facing hadn't com eto mind yet)...
He assured me that being behind the siding there was no need for the conduit, despite this not being outdoor rated cable. From that I extrapolated (perhaps incorrectly) that the usual rules regarding outdoor items didn't always apply behind the siding.
I'll make an excuse to take that guy out for a beer, and try to confirm whatever he tells me on the forum you suggest...
Thanks for all the suggestions!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top