Chuck's Home Theater

**chhelo** · **01-03-07, 12:54 PM**

First post with my design and build as I go home theater. Overall, it seems I do all my projects this way. Hard to plan everything prior to starting as most the time it results in numerous changes regardless of how well you plan.

I will appreciate any comments as I post ideas and pictures of how the build proceeds. My goal is to have it up and runing in 4 to 6 months. Since my 2 sons are now off to college and home mostly on weekends the gameroom to home theater conversion does not infringe on their desire to dominate the upstairs any longer.

Here we go! Basic Design, Front Wall & Back Wall. Disregard the furniture na dold carpet I have rolled up. Waiting to complete the riser and then have the carpet guy install new carpet.

Building the riser with 2X8's and MDF for the decking. Building with the idea it acts as a bass absorber and tactile feel. The black spacers used to decouple from the floor were made from radiator hose. When you walk on the 2x8's they have a solid feel but still will allow for good response to LF vibrations. Leaving room to add Buttkicker if required.

More later.

**Ethan Winer** · **01-03-07, 01:03 PM**

Quote:

chhelo wrote:

I will appreciate any comments

My main comment now is that people in the second row will not have the surrounds behind them. Not sure if there's a perfect solution for that, and maybe you won't often have people back there. Or it'll be in-laws in which case who cares.

Also, your PDF shows a few "acoustic panels (as required)" and no bass traps. In a room that size bass trapping should be a high priority, and the side wall (and ceiling) reflection points also need to be treated.

--Ethan

**chhelo** · **01-03-07, 02:06 PM**

Ethan,

Thanks for the post. Now I know it was a good idea to open this up for comment.

I am basically designing the room so the premier seating is the back row at the 16' listening position. In-laws & kids can set on the front row.

Did not even think to consider placing the surrounds on the rear row of seats. Will relocate the surrounds to that position. One question however, how will this affect the rears and if they will still provide any benefit?

I do have a design for some bass traping and will post the conceptual details when I have them completed. Also, planning on a ceiling panel/absorber in front of the ceiling fan on the screen side.
The riser will have two Helmholtz Resonant Absorber's built in. I need to draw this up and post to see if what I am concepting will work. Also, all of the holes you see cut in the floor are where I blew in 30 bags of cocoon insulation to kill as much sound as possible to the kitchen located below. Between the floor and the ceiling is about 16 inches filled with insulation. The side walls are open to only attic space so I can cut into or do any mods required with little worry on them.

My in-wall equipment bay is located on the left hand wall. It has a glass door that slides open to the left.
See attached photos. I built this several months ago with a home theater in mind. It has a slide out platfom and the brackets to hold equipment also have an extension arm and pivot left or right to allow access to the rear of each piece of equipment. The arms are also adjustable in height. The glass door is mounted to the steel framework by magnets glued to the glass.

Thanks,

Chuck

**Ethan Winer** · **01-04-07, 01:54 PM**

Chuck,

> I am basically designing the room so the premier seating is the back row at the 16' listening position. <

If you do that, place the rear seats so your ears are 7.3 feet from the rear wall behind you, or as close to that distance as you can manage. Whatever you do, do not put either row of seats halfway back in the room front to rear. That's where the worst bass null is located. See THIS article on my company's site for more information on seating placement.

> Did not even think to consider placing the surrounds on the rear row of seats. Will relocate the surrounds to that position. One question however, how will this affect the rears and if they will still provide any benefit? <

I have only 5.1, not 7.1, but my understanding is the rear speakers go all the way back on the rear wall.

--Ethan

**Sonnie** · **01-04-07, 08:57 PM**

What are the dimensions of the room?

Our room is 19.5' deep. We tried the side surrounds on the front row and as we all might expect, it didn't sound right for the back row. We moved the surrounds to the rear corners and it worked out fine.

**chhelo** · **01-04-07, 10:42 PM**

Ethan,

If I place the aft row based on the 38% rule I really have row for one row of seats as the forward row would be at 6 to 7 feet. As you state placing a listening positon at the mid point is not the preferred method but what choice do I have.

Right now if I keep the aft row at 16 feet I am only a little over 3 feet off the back wall. I guess my room dimensions realy are not all that good.

Looks like I will need a lot of bass traping to really kill of all the residual bass.

I am still working on the idea my riser can contain a large amount of bass traping but I may be to new to the world of acoustic design to know what I am really doing.

In the aircraft world when we have to soundproof interiors we rely on lightweight methods. The preferred method is many different materials bonded together to create a blanket that is light as possible to block the transmission of sound. One design we worked on had small internal absorbers imbedded. I need to see if I can locate that file and see if I can recreate cheap enough to make it practical.

Working on the drawing now for the riser mounted absorbers. Should have ready to post this week end.

**chhelo** · **01-05-07, 02:15 PM**

Sonnie,

Thanks for the info. I have attached a new revised room layout regarding the same issue. To place the surrounds furhter back or if I use dipoles I can get both rows at one time.

Overall, I am considering completing the riser, having my chairs delivered, then installing the speakers and othe AV equipment. Once I have it up and running then I can move things around and install acoustic devices as required to get the sound I like.

If this is the wrong approach and I need more planning send in the HT Police and have them put me in cuffs.

**Sonnie** · **01-05-07, 10:11 PM**

Chuck, I think your room is really kinda small for 7.1. You could try it, but my room is almost the same depth as yours and 7.1 wouldn't work... or didn't sound right... may have just been me, but personally I think 5.1 is going to be your ticket.

I would do this:

**chhelo** · **01-07-07, 06:38 PM**

Sonnie,

Thanks for your input. I most likely will start with a 5.1 system as I can always expand later.

Had planned to purchase AV gear for a 7.1 system but speakers are part of the major cost and rears can be added later. Good thing I have the time to experiment and not in a hurry.

The other unique issue that may have revalence is the slanted ceiling's on the left and right side. The question is can speakers be located on the slanted ceiling directed at an angle towards the seating or is this a bad idea. I have not seen this issue addressed anywhere.

Chuck

**Sonnie** · **01-07-07, 06:43 PM**

I've seen and installed surrounds on slanted walls and as long as the levels are set properly there were no issues I could discern.

**chhelo** · **01-07-07, 07:18 PM**

Ethan,

The riser bass trap design is attached. I was planning to install them in 2 spaces on the riser. Each bay would be 14" wide by 84" long and approximately 10" deep.

One would be set up for low bass frequencies with 1/2" plywood and the other for mid bass with 1/4" plywood. Even considered splitting each 50/50 so the traps would be balanced in the riser.

Overall, the major question is will this work or is it a total waste of time to install traps in the riser. The other bays will be filled 50 to 75% with batt insulation and ported to introduce tactile response into the riser similar to the design I found posted and recommended by Auralex.

I may be far better of stuffing the whole thing with insulation and forgeting all the extra work and just install Buttkickers.

More pictures posted on the riser construction.

Chuck

**Ethan Winer** · **01-08-07, 01:28 PM**

Chuck,

> The riser bass trap design is attached. I was planning to install them in 2 spaces on the riser. Each bay would be 14" wide by 84" long and approximately 10" deep. One would be set up for low bass frequencies with 1/2" plywood and the other for mid bass with 1/4" plywood. Even considered splitting each 50/50 so the traps would be balanced in the riser. <

The problem is that type of bass trap needs to be able to vibrate freely to work well. So as soon as you put seats etc on top it will not be a bass trap anymore. It might still help a little, but that's about it.

--Ethan

**chhelo** · **01-08-07, 03:05 PM**

Ethan,

In my design the plywood panel that serves as the top of the absorber is a couple of inches from the top floor of the riser. It will be free to vibrate up and down. The one though I had was that the narrowness (14") of the chamber would cause the plywood sheet to be too stiff. As in the panel absorber designs I have seen it would be airtight and have the insulation speced in between the top panel and the bottom panel (wall) side of the absorber.

In short I was trying to design a panel absorber into the riser.

However, if the broadband bass wave will be affected by the riser deck, carpet pad and carpet to such a point that it may not have enough energy remaining to vibrate the plywood. Additionally, as those woud be such long wavelengths it may be to narrow of an absorber to make a difference therefore, I would be better off building separate devices for the corners and celing separate from the riser.

If this is the case I just need to build separate absorbers for the corners and ceiling.

The other thing I have going for the room is each side wall is just sheetrock on studs with 3.5 inches of fiberglass batts on the attic side of the wall. From what I have read the bass waves will just radiate through the walls and never return. Over 20 foot of depth on each side in the attic. Too bad for the neighbors.

Chuck

**Ethan Winer** · **01-09-07, 10:48 AM**

Chuck,

> In my design the plywood panel that serves as the top of the absorber is a couple of inches from the top floor of the riser. <

Yes, but the solid layer of OSB above it won't let any bass waves through. Unless I'm reading your plans wrong.

> if the broadband bass wave will be affected by the riser deck, carpet pad and carpet to such a point that it may not have enough energy remaining to vibrate the plywood. Additionally, as those woud be such long wavelengths it may be to narrow of an absorber to make a difference therefore, I would be better off building separate devices for the corners and celing separate from the riser. <

Exactly.

> The other thing I have going for the room is each side wall is just sheetrock on studs with 3.5 inches of fiberglass batts on the attic side of the wall. From what I have read the bass waves will just radiate through the walls and never return. Over 20 foot of depth on each side in the attic. <

Maybe the really low stuff will pass through, but sheet rock reflects well enough to cause problems down to 40 Hz if not lower.

--Ethan

**chhelo** · **01-09-07, 12:48 PM**

Ethan,

Thanks for the guidance. I'll scrap the plans for that grandious idea and stuff the riser with insulation and installed the floor. Time to get it completed and carpeted so I can have the seats delivered.

Chuck

**chhelo** · **01-11-07, 09:55 PM**

Preliminary design for the left and right walls. Lower portion covered with OC703 covered panels and decorative panels up top with drapes in between. Sconces in front of each curtain.

Hard part will be selecting the materials.

Riser will be completed this weekend and will post pictures.

Chuck

**chhelo** · **01-12-07, 09:39 PM**

Completed the construction of the Riser. Guess we will see if the subs will make it active. Just in case its wired for Buttkickers if I need them.

Next item is building the screen wall.

Chuck

**Sonnie** · **01-12-07, 10:03 PM**

Nice work Chuck...

Is this going to be a DIY screen?

**chhelo** · **01-14-07, 12:42 AM**

Sonnie,

Thinking about it. I want a curved screen for 2.35:1 but have not figured out how much curve to build in. I know it has to do with which PJ and lens setup you use and I am still trying to figure out which PJ to buy.

I would like the Runco RS1100 with Cinewide and Autoscope but there is no way to afford that kind of hardware.

Mitsubishi 5000, JVC RS-1, or Sharp DLP are some of the contenders. Leaning to DLP if I can afford it however.

Chuck

**chhelo** · **01-15-07, 09:46 AM**

I found some black fabric over the weekend and attempted to render the actual fabrics to see how they look on the computer.

Using Smartdraw software and it's not the easiest to get to work. Hard to import the photos and getting the trim fabricto render good.

Attachement with black fabric attached.

Chuck

**Sonnie** · **01-15-07, 10:11 AM**

I'm not familiar with the curved screen, but I did my own screen on drywall/sheetrock using the Misty Evening Gray... it works very well.

**chhelo** · **01-19-07, 07:03 PM**

A little more progress to report.

Preliminary sound proofing and decorative panels for the room.

Panel 1 - Lower panels from base moulding to chair rail. Made from white wood 2x4's trimmed to 1X1. Looked at using uncut material from Lowes and Home Depot but to crooked to use. If these start to warp I'm going to use the composite deck lumber trimmed to size.

The panel is approximately 51" wide by 29" tall. It has 2 pieces of OC 703 24" X 27" inside. Wrapped in batting and then upholsterd in a nice velour (breathable) fabric. I will use the same fabric for the drapes.

Panel 2 - Faux Windows - Made from a light weight steel frame. Basically, its a garden trellis they sell at lowes for about $30.00. Was going to make from wood but got in a hurry. It has a piece of OC 703 in the lower 1/3 of the panel 24" X 20". Between the lower panel and the window panel it will give me the soundproofing required to kill relected sound up to 46's form the floor. This is mostly guess work and we will see what happens. Shooting for a room that is not too dead.

Panels and design are based on the rendering from earlier post.

Only step left is having a friend who is going to make my drapes take a look and confirm the overall design looks good. Always good to have someone else to take part of the blame if someone says your decorating skills suck.

Looks like we are going to have a good rainy Saturday so I should get a lot more done.

Comments will be welcomed.

_______________________
Chuck

**Prof.** · **01-20-07, 06:43 PM**

Chuck,
Very nice work on the faux window..
How accurate is the wall colour in the pic? In your render, the wall colour is much darker, which to my eyes sets off the faux window better..

**chhelo** · **01-21-07, 04:49 PM**

Prof,

The flash makes the wall appear ligher in color. When I have the 4 ceiling can lights turned down it appears much darker.

When I get the sconces and rope lighting installed the overhead cans will be mostly used for Clean Up mode.

If I had it to do over again I would have selectd all of the materials at one time but I was in a hurry to paint and just went with a color I thought was dark enough. If it is still too light I can always use a darker brown color wash on the walls.

Thanks for the comments.

_____________
Chuck

**Prof.** · **01-21-07, 07:22 PM**

"If I had it to do over again I would have selectd all of the materials at one time but I was in a hurry to paint and just went with a color I thought was dark enough. If it is still too light I can always use a darker brown color wash on the wall"

_____________

I made the same mistake myself, selecting materials as I went along.
Apart from slowing things down, It does leave you pondering sometimes over decisions that should have been made during the planning process. But in the end for me, it all worked out ok, as I'm sure it will for you also...

Keep the pics coming...

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