Newbie - looking for some HT room advice

[scyce]

Hello,

I am new to this forum and Home Theater... I am working on adding a HT to my basement. I would really appreciate it if some of you knowlegable folks could look at my plan and let me know if you see any problems with it... I attached a URL to a picture (let me know if it doesn't work)

http://us.share.geocities.com/scyce/Basement2.bmp

Some initial questions I have:

1. Is my HT too small?
2. With the HVAC system so close will I be able to 'insulate it' so it will not impact the HT? I know I have to becareful with 'blocking' in the HVAC. I was thinking maybe I could put in a vent on the other side (rec room side) to add ventilation. I would use solid wood doors to help with noise...
3. what is a minimum height for a riser or raised floor? 6", 8" more???
4. I'm thinking of putting in a floating floor, 2X4's on some sort of rubber vibration isolators and two layers of plywood... I read that this increases your HT experience by allowing you to feel the bass in your seat. Does anybody have this?

I really appreciate your help...

Scott

[bpape]

Welcome to the forums.

The room is not all that small. A lot of people would love to have that much space. Just be realistic in terms of seating.

The HVAC is always an issue. You'll absolutely not want to put a door to the furnace in the HT. Put it on the other side in the rec room. It will be an issue if you don't.

The other issue for isolation is doors on both sides of the equipment rack. I'd put the rack outside and have the door out there and use an IR repeater system to control it from an eye mounted under the screen in the front of the room.

Bryan

[scyce]

Thanks... The only problem I have is that the front of the HVAC and control panel is on the HT side... It really isn't that noisy.. Even with a solid door, weather stripping, etc... I can't make it work?

[salvasol]

Welcome to the forum

1. Is my HT too small? ...

No, the size is okay (mine is 9 x 18 x 8) ... if you can make it longer will be better

2. With the HVAC system so close will I be able to 'insulate it' so it will not impact the HT? I know I have to becareful with 'blocking' in the HVAC. I was thinking maybe I could put in a vent on the other side (rec room side) to add ventilation. I would use solid wood doors to help with noise...

Here, Bryan is the expert ... so no comment

3. what is a minimum height for a riser or raised floor? 6", 8" more??? ...

There is a formula to calculate the height, it depend on different factors, you can try this http://www.theater-calc.com/

4. I'm thinking of putting in a floating floor, 2X4's on some sort of rubber vibration isolators and two layers of plywood... I read that this increases your HT experience by allowing you to feel the bass in your seat. Does anybody have this? ...

I'm sure your talking about the riser, Right??? ... mine is 12" height, I used 2"x6" (it was cheaper than 2"x12" ), a single layer of MDF and covered with carpet ... look around and you will find instructions on how to build a riser ... and to feel the bass in your seat; the best option is a pair of buttkickers http://www.thebuttkicker.com/home_theater/index.htm ... you'll be

Have fun with your project

[scyce]

Is it at possible to make it work with a door leading to the HVAC from the HT? If you look at my diagram link above that is really the only option I have. The front of the HVAC unit is where my HT will be. I know some purist may say so, but it doesn't always run and when it does it is pretty quite. I would put a vent on the other side of the wall (rec room side) and use a solid door on the HT side with insulated walls...

more questions. Do most people do the double drywall walls? How about the green glue with it? If you do the double drywall do the outlet covers still fit?

Is the double drywall to help the experience in the room or to protect the rest of the house from the sound?

Thanks again...

[bpape]

If you have to have the door there, then you have to. A solid core door with seals will help.

Double drywall and Green Glue will help quiet other things getting in and sound getting out. So, it's really both. If you can get the ambient noise level in the room down, that just gives you more 'free' dynamic range.

Bryan

[scyce]

David,

For the floating floor I was referring to putting the entire floor on these stud isolators (http://www.soundprooffoam.com/stud_beam_isolators.html). Then the riser section would be built on top of this foor. By having the whole floor on these stud isolators I thought it would help the bass come through the seats.. That was before you told me about the buttkickers... They look pretty cool... But back to my floating floor with the stud isolators do you think that is worth doing?

Thanks...

P.S. I am going to donate to this forum becuase I am going to have lots of questions... I really appreciate the help...

[bpape]

The stud isolators can work OK - it's just expensive by the time you do that, the 2x's and the TIG decking. You also lose quite a bit of ceiling height.

Investigate a product called Dri Core. It's a solution for wet basements that we use all the time to get some 'feel' in the floor. Overall, it will be less expensive and you'll lose less height. You then build the walls and everything else on top of this and you're getting better isolation out of the deal too.

Bryan

[scyce]

Yea, I saw Dri Core and was looking at that... I wasn't aware that you could actually build your walls on it.. I just looked at their website and sure enought you can build right on top.. I guess then I would my risers on that...

Thanks...

[scyce]

Are metal studs a problem in a HT or is it just better to stick with wood? I'm wondering if the metal studs would cause any interference or other electronic issues...

Thanks...

[bpape]

Metal studs are fine in most cases.

Bryan