Question for the HTS experts - Page 2 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

Old 12-05-11, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
Shackster

Sandy

Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Winter Haven, FL
Posts: 53
My System
Re: Question for the HTS experts

\$80 a sheet, I'm sure it's worth it, but it makes you think doesn't it?

My concern with the Green Glue and clips method, will the clips and hat channel support two layers of 1/2" or 5/8" sheet rock. The clips are rated at 45 - 60 lbs max with 22 ga steel furring. According to the chart below, 2 layers of 4' x 10' x 1/2" would weigh 136 lbs and then there's the Green Glue, sheet rock screws, tape, mud, paint and . . . I guess that's why in the YouTube videos you see them nailing directly to the studs.

According to United States Gypsum (www.usg.com), standard drywall weighs about 3.4 lbs per sq ft per inch thickness. Water resistant drywall (greenboard) weighs about 3.9 lbs. per sq. ft. per inch thickness. Firecode C drywall weighs about 4.2 lbs. per sq. ft. per inch thickness. These are approximations, as the ratio of core vs. covering varies for different thicknesses, thereby varying the exact weights. So, 1/2" thick standard drywall weighs 3.4 x 0.5, or 1.7 lbs per sq. ft.

4' x 8' x 1/2" thick sheet weighs 1.7 x 32 s.f. = 54 lbs.
4' x 10' x 1/2" thick sheet weighs 1.7 x 40 s.f. = 68 lbs.
4' x 12' x 1/2" thick sheet weighs 1.7 x 48 s.f. = 82 lbs.
5/8" thick standard drywall weighs 3.4 x 0.625 = 2.2 lbs per sq. ft.
4' x 8' x 5/8" thick sheet weighs about 70 lbs.
4' x 10' x 5/8" thick sheet weighs about 88 lbs.
4' x 12' x 5/8" thick sheet weighs about 105 lbs.
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Old 12-05-11, 09:32 AM
HTS Senior Moderator

Bryan Pape

Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Wildwood, MO (St. Loui
Posts: 5,209
Re: Question for the HTS experts

If you look on the PAC website, they have 2 different layouts for how many and how to arrange the clips depending on what thickness and number of layers you're doing. Also remember that the clips and channel are likely rated on a per unit basis so there's going to be a lot more than 1 clip and 1 channel per piece of drywall.

On the usage chart in an 8' tall room, IIRC, there are 4 channels running horizontal so even with 2 layers of 1/2" at 100 lbs (4x8), that's still only 25 lbs per channel over that 4' width.

Bryan

I am serious... and don't call me Shirley.

Bryan Pape
GIK Acoustics
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Old 12-05-11, 07:21 PM
HTS Moderator

Joe

Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,209
My System
Re: Question for the HTS experts

Another suggestion I heard was to make the 1st layer OSB and the 2nd layer drywall. The STC rating for OSB and drywall are pretty similar. Hang the OSB on the res channel and make it so it rests on the floor so that you use the floor to help support the weight. Then, hang the drywall as normal and seal the bottom gap with a noiseproof sealant.

This is how I am planning to soundproof my room - I will defnitely plan to post how it works out.
ALMFamily is offline
Old 12-06-11, 07:32 AM
HTS Senior Moderator

Bryan Pape

Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Wildwood, MO (St. Loui
Posts: 5,209
Re: Question for the HTS experts

First, use RSIC-1 clips and hat channel as opposed to Resiliant Channel. You'll get better performance plus RC is pretty easy to short out with a couple misplaced screws. Pretty tough to mess up RSIC-1 and hat channel.

You can do MDF if you need to purely for mounting purposes - otherwise, drywall is cheaper for essentially the same performance. Regardless you don't want any of the layers really tight to the floor or ceiling. Not big gaps but not touching. The idea is to allow it to move and not be restricted by rubbing on floor or ceiling. Make sure to caulk all 90 degree junctions.

Bryan

I am serious... and don't call me Shirley.

Bryan Pape
GIK Acoustics
bpape is offline
Old 12-06-11, 08:45 AM
HTS Moderator

Joe

Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,209
My System
Re: Question for the HTS experts

Quote:
bpape wrote: View Post
First, use RSIC-1 clips and hat channel as opposed to Resiliant Channel. You'll get better performance plus RC is pretty easy to short out with a couple misplaced screws. Pretty tough to mess up RSIC-1 and hat channel.

You can do MDF if you need to purely for mounting purposes - otherwise, drywall is cheaper for essentially the same performance. Regardless you don't want any of the layers really tight to the floor or ceiling. Not big gaps but not touching. The idea is to allow it to move and not be restricted by rubbing on floor or ceiling. Make sure to caulk all 90 degree junctions.

Bryan
Sorry, I misspoke in my original post - I am not doing res channel -I am doing Whisper Clips (from John and Ted) and hat channel.
ALMFamily is offline
Old 12-06-11, 09:19 AM
HTS Senior Moderator

Bryan Pape

Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Wildwood, MO (St. Loui
Posts: 5,209
Re: Question for the HTS experts

That'll work!

I am serious... and don't call me Shirley.

Bryan Pape
GIK Acoustics
bpape is offline
Old 12-09-11, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
Shackster

Sandy

Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Winter Haven, FL
Posts: 53
My System
Re: Question for the HTS experts

Thanks Guys. Now that we have the walls taken care of, how about the floor. The floor will be over a poured slab. I read somewhere that it is best to put down a hardwood floor (rather than a rug) and put a rug over the hardwood. What's your thoughts on the floor under-layment so as not to couple the floor to the walls?
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