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post #151 of 732 Old 09-28-12, 02:23 PM
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re: MrAngles' Tornado Shelter Theater

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The other option would be to pay to have the furnace rotated and/or moved, which since I'm planning on being in this house for a long time, seems more and more like reasonable option.
Did you happen to get an estimate as to what they would charge to move it? My idea involves something similar to what I am doing with my electrical panel / sump pump area, but it will not be anywhere near as good as leaving the walls as is.


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post #152 of 732 Old 09-28-12, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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re: MrAngles' Tornado Shelter Theater

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MA, regarding steel studs, I think the idea is really to get decoupling. I used sound isolationclips, and metal hat tracks, along with double layers of sheetrock with greenglue in between to get maximum sound isolution. That combo should give you around 56 STC. Another thing to consider is stagger studded walls where you build a 6" wall and then stagger the 2x4 studs so no single stud touches both walls. That and double layer sheetrock/greenglue can also give you a huge benefit in terms of sound isolation.

That's what I came up with in my research at least...
Thank you, actually my plan is to use a double wall design for isolation (two 4" walls with a couple inches of air between with double drywall and green glue on each side of the wall. I thought I saw a comparison of different walls (maybe on soundproofingcompany.com?) showing that metal stud walls had a slightly higher STC rating due to being more flexible.
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post #153 of 732 Old 09-28-12, 04:59 PM
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re: MrAngles' Tornado Shelter Theater

I think I saw the same chart. Whatever you, don't sheetrock the interior sides of the walls and get the triple leaf effect. I would imagine though that sound isolation clips would be better cost/benefit wise vs steel studs which I would guess are much more expensive?

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post #154 of 732 Old 09-28-12, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
dguarnaccia wrote:
I think I saw the same chart. Whatever you, don't sheetrock the interior sides of the walls and get the triple leaf effect. I would imagine though that sound isolation clips would be better cost/benefit wise vs steel studs which I would guess are much more expensive?
Steel studs are definitely more expensive than wood studs, I'm not sure if a double stud wall with steel studs would be more expensive than a single stud wood wall with clips and hat channel on both sides, but a double stud wall has a better STC rating than a wall with clips whether it uses steel studs or not.


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post #155 of 732 Old 09-28-12, 09:29 PM Thread Starter
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Did you happen to get an estimate as to what they would charge to move it? My idea involves something similar to what I am doing with my electrical panel / sump pump area, but it will not be anywhere near as good as leaving the walls as is.
I'm still waiting on an estimate from the HVAC guy. He suggested a short door just like what you have, and I think it's perfect for your situation, but having a door inches away from the loud furnace which is only a few feet away from where my couch is going to be, really scares me.

My hope is that with all the moving/replacement of a lot of the trunk lines that connect to the unit, the cost to rotate the thing won't actually be too bad.


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post #156 of 732 Old 09-29-12, 11:04 AM
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re: MrAngles' Tornado Shelter Theater

One thing to remember to do is the make sure they HVAC guy programs the unit for airflow even when the furnace isn't on. We didn't put in AC, since it's a basement theater, but the room is so sealed, it can get stuffy when the furnace isn't on. I'm having our guy come back and program the unit to also just move air on a programed basis. We also went with wireless controlers that can be brought into each room with rocks, so we can control the temp from a specific room while watching a movie. Highly recommend that!

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post #157 of 732 Old 09-29-12, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
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I was thinking about the same problem when we talked about not putting an air return in the theater, but he didn't seem concerned about it. So your set up turns the fan on in that zone intermittently, regardless of what the thermostat is set to? Could I just program the thermostat to turn the AC on a couple times a day for the same effect?

I don't much like the idea of having a wireless thermostat just because I know it would get lost. I do want to get one with a IR receiver though, so I can control it with the HT remote.


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post #158 of 732 Old 09-29-12, 11:36 PM
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re: MrAngles' Tornado Shelter Theater

Yea, AC would work but we don't have it. The basement temp stays pretty constant as well, so a lot of times the air doesn't kick it at all, hence the timed airflow.

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post #159 of 732 Old 10-01-12, 11:14 AM
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re: MrAngles' Tornado Shelter Theater

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MrAngles wrote: View Post
I'm still waiting on an estimate from the HVAC guy. He suggested a short door just like what you have, and I think it's perfect for your situation, but having a door inches away from the loud furnace which is only a few feet away from where my couch is going to be, really scares me.

My hope is that with all the moving/replacement of a lot of the trunk lines that connect to the unit, the cost to rotate the thing won't actually be too bad.
If you do end up having to go with a door, I would make it one that incorporates more material than mine does. My thought was to take the OSB and drywall you had to cut out and screw them together with GG between. Then, I would cut 4 blocks for each corner and liquid nail them to the OSB/sheetrock. Make sure the blocks are as small as possible to limit the bass transferrence possibility. Liquid Nail a piece of sheetrock on top of that. Then, take some 6mm plastic and seal the sides and bottom gaps created by the block. Fill with insulation and then seal the top. This door would be thicker than a solid oak door and you also limit bass vibration through the door. You would just have to recess the door jambs far enough to allow for the thickness. Put some weatherstripping on the door jambs - something like you see on the door jamb assembly from The Soundproofing Company. that should give you a good seal.

To dress it up a bit and hide seams, I think I would glue trim to the door that would overlap the wall. I would make sure to put some foam on the part of the trim that contacts the wall to reduce chances of rattling.

I don't know for sure as I have never tested something like this, but I think it should work......


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post #160 of 732 Old 10-09-12, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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re: MrAngles' Tornado Shelter Theater

Thanks, yeah that's basically what I was thinking. I also figured I could seal the seams with acoustical caulk, I don't imagine I would need to access the thing that often. Then again that depends on where the filter is, which I'm still not sure about.

The HVAC guy hasn't gotten back to me with a quote, so I guess I get to call another guy. I've lived in the midwest for six months now and I've had eight different contractors never call back, arrive hours late without calling, or no show at this point. I don't know what the deal is, I never had this issue in Oregon.
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