Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

Drywall/QuietGlue or Quietrock

11K views 19 replies 7 participants last post by  bpape 
#1 ·
Hello everyone,

I hope you all had a great holiday season.


I am finishing my basement with a home theater. After much deliberation, I decided to soundproof and "acousticize" the entire level. My question is simple and has probably been asked before: What gives me a better net STC, double layer drywall with QuietGlue or 5/8" 525 Quietrock? I know the latter is more expensive; however, I am willing to take the plunge if it is the best solution.

Thanks,

Matthew
 

Attachments

See less See more
1
#3 ·
Brian,

Thanks. I love the fact that, for once, the less expensive solution wins out. I have already priced out both solutions and the double drywall/QuietGlue option is significantly less.

I have also decided to go with isolation clips and hat track channels on the ceiling. In the home theater area, which is directly under the master bedroom, I am going to channel/clip the walls as well to help eliminate frequency transference. All the doors going in are going to be solid core with treatments. In addition, I am adding a door at the bottom of the stairs to help stop leaks to the kitchen area above. On the acoustical side, I am going with a combination of acoustic panels, bass traps and sound deadening furniture.

This is exciting as I will be doing the building and this is my first home theater.

Thanks,

Matthew
 
#4 ·
Since you haven't done the drywall work yet, another technique to consider is offset studs. Use alternating studs for opposite sides of the wall so sound won't carry through the studs. Use studs placed at half normal intervals on a six inch plate and cap. Shift them (alternately) to face opposite sides as you go. You can go with a four inch plate and cap but then you need to trim your studs slightly so they are less than the cap and plate width. Takes twice as many studs but it gives quite a bit of isolation and works for lower frequencies fairly well. Apply your other treatments in addition, and you should have some good soundproofing. Don't forget ventilation since soundproofing insulates for heat (and cooling) as well.
 
#6 ·
Thanks Bob. Is the wall building technique you referring to called "staggered"? If so, that is what I plan on doing. I do not mind the money going into extra studs. I just want to get all of this done upfront so I do not have to go back and spend more money and time on it later. On the HVAC note, I was planning on using QuickCoat. What are your thoughts on that product?

Thanks again.

Matthew
 
#5 ·
Quietrock is just two small pieces of drywall with glue in-between. Do it your self and you will safe a ton of money and you will have a more sound proof room. If you compare Quietrock to 1 regular 5/8 drywall the Quietrock will win but you are talking about over an inch of drywall with glue.

Another note do not waste your money on sound insulation spend your money on isolating the walls and just use cheap pink insulation. Bass loves dense insulation, High frequencies will be stopped but bass will have an easier time. High frequencies will already have a hard time getting pass 2 layers of drywall.
 
#7 ·
Hello Blacklightning!

I was almost lured in by Roxul's marketing but decided to go with OC Bat 15 (walls) and Bat 30 (ceilings). BTW, thanks for confirming that QuietGlue and my own 5/8" double drywall is a better path to follow. I am spending enough money between construction materials, new speakers, new components and the like.:hissyfit:

Thank you,

Matthew
 
#8 · (Edited)
I'm not sure what to tell you on the "staggered" term since I'm not a builder myself, but it sound's right. I'm attaching an illustration to this post to show you what I was talking about. As Blacklightning mentioned, just use pink fiberglass or loose packed cellulose fill between the drywall sheets (fiberglass is best since it won't ever pack).

Not sure about the QuickCoat Matthew, I haven't heard of that before. The main thing I was referring to is to size any cooling system to take into account heat sources in the insulated rooms since you'll have to pull that heat out with the HVAC system more so than with a non-insulated space. However, it could be an advantage for heating in the winter!
 

Attachments

#12 ·
Attached is another example of staggered wall construction that I thought was very helpful in visualizing the independent elements working together. As you see, 2 x 2 corner studs are added to ensure proper fastening of drywall panels. In addition, the pink stuff envelopes the inner portion of the 2 x 4s to provide maximum frequency absorption. Finally, the 2 x 4 are offset six inches on the inside from the outside studs. GOOD STUFF!

Matthew
 

Attachments

#14 ·
Good info... I wonder what would happen if you did the double wall with 1 layer of 1/2" OSB, and 3 layers of 5/8" drywall, and green glue. I have been looking at a DIY that uses fir strips instead of clips for hanging the OSB and drywall... I think it will cut the costs down quite a bit too.
 
#20 ·
It's all about surface contact area and flexibility/rigidity. Firring is a good cheap way to go that'll get you a lot of what clips/channel will do. Clips and channel though you have such a very very small contact area that it's pretty tough to transmit much of any motion to the studs.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top