Ellis Family Retirement HT: Go big or go home - Page 7 - Home Theater Forum and Systems - HomeTheaterShack.com

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post #61 of 795 Old 02-09-14, 08:14 PM
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Re: My retirement Home Theater

I would say it would be easier to put the 1/4" foam board, then wire. I would do the wire then fiberglass insulation. That way you can split the insulation around the wires. If you are doing the whole floor would do the floors, then any walls, then the ceiling last. That is how I think they do normal framing on second levels.


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post #62 of 795 Old 02-09-14, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: My retirement Home Theater



Will it be any different being that this is a first floor? I am only doing the floor because it is concrete and I am trying to stop the bass from going through the concrete slab.

Ron

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Yamaha CX-A5100, (3) JBL 2360A/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, (2 pr) JBL 8340As, (2 pr) JBL 8320s, PS3, XBox One, (2) Intel NUCs, Redmere HDMI cables, Monster Signature HTPS7000, (2) Furman Power Conditioners, (2) DTS-10 subs, Panasonic AE8000, SeymourAV 180 (195" diag) scope screen, Darbee Darcet, Panamorph UH-480 lens, (2) Crest Audio 2208, Yamaha XM-4080 & P7000s, (2) MiniDSP DDRC-88M, Oppo UDP-203

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post #63 of 795 Old 02-10-14, 12:44 AM
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Re: My retirement Home Theater

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Well we should have the garage ready to start construction on in a week or two...

This is what the plan is so far.
1:Cut out the door opening and install a solid core door from the garage to the house.
2:Build the hallway wall (not sure if this should be done before or after ceiling and raised floor)
3: Open up the ceiling and walls to re do the sound insulation

The next step I am not sure of... Should the floor or ceiling be built next?

For the ceiling we will be doing the 1/4" foam board, GG, drywall, insulation,GG all of this between the beams and then... Drywall, GG, Drywall

For the floor we are planning on moisture barrier 2x4 with 3/4" OSB (insulation in the sub floor if it will fit).

I figure the drywall on the walls will be after we have demo'd the speakers in the room.

How does this sound? Is this the correct order to do this? Suggestions? Do we do the electrical wiring before we do the 1/4" foam in between the ceiling joists or after? I am thinking it would go in the fiberglass insulation layer but I am not sure.

Is anyone familiar with these Genie Clips? Are they any good?
If it were me, I would do the ceiling first - simply because if anything plops down while I am working on it, it does not get on a floor I have already finished.

Spot on - do everything up to the drywall up there, do whatever electrical you have to, and then work the insulation around that.

Apologies - not familiar with the Genie clips...


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post #64 of 795 Old 02-10-14, 09:25 AM
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Re: My retirement Home Theater

I know ALM did foam board because he had screws sticking out through the bottom of his subfloor that would have made it very difficult to mount drywall directly to the bottom of the floor, is there any actual soundproofing reason to use foamboard between the joists? The standard sound isolation method to reduce footfall noise from above is green glue between drywall and the subfloor, then another layer of drywall with green glue between.


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post #65 of 795 Old 02-10-14, 10:31 AM
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Re: My retirement Home Theater

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I know ALM did foam board because he had screws sticking out through the bottom of his subfloor that would have made it very difficult to mount drywall directly to the bottom of the floor, is there any actual soundproofing reason to use foamboard between the joists? The standard sound isolation method to reduce footfall noise from above is green glue between drywall and the subfloor, then another layer of drywall with green glue between.
There is not - I would never have taken the time to put that stuff in if I did not have those screws poking through.

If I did not have to put the foam board in, I probably would have added a second layer of drywall in between the joists.


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post #66 of 795 Old 02-10-14, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: My retirement Home Theater

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There is not - I would never have taken the time to put that stuff in if I did not have those screws poking through.

If I did not have to put the foam board in, I probably would have added a second layer of drywall in between the joists.
Good to know... We will check for screws or nails before we decide if we need the foam board layer.

Ron

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post #67 of 795 Old 02-10-14, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: My retirement Home Theater

When the new wall is built... Does the wall get built all the way to the ceiling or is there a gap for isolation? Do we do it the same way for the subfloor over concrete?

Ron

My Home Theater
Yamaha CX-A5100, (3) JBL 2360A/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, (2 pr) JBL 8340As, (2 pr) JBL 8320s, PS3, XBox One, (2) Intel NUCs, Redmere HDMI cables, Monster Signature HTPS7000, (2) Furman Power Conditioners, (2) DTS-10 subs, Panasonic AE8000, SeymourAV 180 (195" diag) scope screen, Darbee Darcet, Panamorph UH-480 lens, (2) Crest Audio 2208, Yamaha XM-4080 & P7000s, (2) MiniDSP DDRC-88M, Oppo UDP-203

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post #68 of 795 Old 02-10-14, 10:57 AM
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Re: My retirement Home Theater

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When the new wall is built... Does the wall get built all the way to the ceiling or is there a gap for isolation? Do we do it the same way for the subfloor over concrete?
If you can manage to isolate the walls from the ceiling as part of the build and still make them able to hold the weight of multiple layers of drywall, I would definitely go that route. To me, the single largest potential for transmission of LFE vibrations is through the ceiling joists.

As for the floor, I would go to the concrete. If memory serves, concrete - especially if it is below ground level- does not transmit those vibrations. My walls are right on top of my foundation in the basement, and you cannot hear boo from outside.


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post #69 of 795 Old 02-10-14, 11:04 AM
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Re: My retirement Home Theater

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When the new wall is built... Does the wall get built all the way to the ceiling or is there a gap for isolation? Do we do it the same way for the subfloor over concrete?
If you are using clips and channel to decouple the drywall from the wall studs, it doesn't really matter. If sound will be able to transfer through the drywall to the wall framing, use IB-3 brackets to isolate the wall from the joists above like this:

I used IB-3s because I did double stud wall construction to avoid the cost of clips and channel on the walls. They also made wall construction easier because I didn't need to worry about the top plate of the walls being flush to the joists.


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post #70 of 795 Old 02-10-14, 11:02 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: My retirement Home Theater

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If you are using clips and channel to decouple the drywall from the wall studs, it doesn't really matter. If sound will be able to transfer through the drywall to the wall framing, use IB-3 brackets to isolate the wall from the joists above like this:

I used IB-3s because I did double stud wall construction to avoid the cost of clips and channel on the walls. They also made wall construction easier because I didn't need to worry about the top plate of the walls being flush to the joists.
So this is less expensive then the clips route? I priced out the clips and they were going to run me about $1k to do the whole room. How would a double wall construction compare to using more layers of drywall?

Ron

My Home Theater
Yamaha CX-A5100, (3) JBL 2360A/EV DHA-1s, (3) 1/4 Pie bass bins, (2 pr) JBL 8340As, (2 pr) JBL 8320s, PS3, XBox One, (2) Intel NUCs, Redmere HDMI cables, Monster Signature HTPS7000, (2) Furman Power Conditioners, (2) DTS-10 subs, Panasonic AE8000, SeymourAV 180 (195" diag) scope screen, Darbee Darcet, Panamorph UH-480 lens, (2) Crest Audio 2208, Yamaha XM-4080 & P7000s, (2) MiniDSP DDRC-88M, Oppo UDP-203

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