dedicated HT room

[don5738]

hi all, this is one of my first posts and i have alot of questions, i'm in the process of building my home theater,its approx. 23ft long and 15ft wide 2 walls are concrete and we are making others, we are staggering studs on 2 walls and floating floor and accoustic ceiling, this is all new to me got ideas from this site questions i have how far to mount projector from wall, i was thinking of painted screen? i read here that it works very well in dark dedicated room also double dry wall construction r13 isulation and r30 in ceilings i could use some insight i could use some ideas for sound quality in side room also what about audio i have all denon components but also bose lifestyle 48? what should i use still thinking

[John Simpson]

Hi Don, welcome to the Shack! Feel free to ask as many questions as you like.

Painted screens get mixed reviews -- some people love them (mainly due to the cost savings) whereas others say you would be crazy not to get a proper projector screen. One of the key things to watch is "gain"... if your gain is too high (especially in a dedicated HT room) the image will be extremely bright. A low gain can produce some very deep blacks, but you have to make sure your room and projector are up to the task.

The Denon components sound sweet (I'm a Denon fan too) but the Bose speakers may let you down over time. Simply plan your walls as if you *will* upgrade at some point -- ie: conduit, heavy speaker cabling, sturdy wallplates. Lots of info in these forums about all that stuff.

(Although one of your first purchases could be a keyboard with a working "shift" key... )

[don5738]

John Simpson wrote:

Hi Don, welcome to the Shack! Feel free to ask as many questions as you like.

Painted screens get mixed reviews -- some people love them (mainly due to the cost savings) whereas others say you would be crazy not to get a proper projector screen. One of the key things to watch is "gain"... if your gain is too high (especially in a dedicated HT room) the image will be extremely bright. A low gain can produce some very deep blacks, but you have to make sure your room and projector are up to the task.

The Denon components sound sweet (I'm a Denon fan too) but the Bose speakers may let you down over time. Simply plan your walls as if you *will* upgrade at some point -- ie: conduit, heavy speaker cabling, sturdy wallplates. Lots of info in these forums about all that stuff.

(Although onhe of your first purchases could be a keyboard with a working "shift" key... )

Thanks for the reply and real funny I will try to remember the Shift Key.... How far should I mount the projector from the front of screen? and what about Base traps? I was thinking of seating and home made Risers

[John Simpson]

Heheh, yeah, hope that didn't come across as rude. It's all fun until someone runs out of the room crying...

Projector distance depends on the projector you buy -- each will have different throw ratios and sweet spots. Wrap your eyes around this page, as a good start.

There's also a really neat projector online store that does the calculations for you -- anyone remember the URL?

[YW84U]

Another Shackster welcome Don!

I think the site John was referring to is this one:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/proj...ulator-pro.cfm

Just enter in the make/model of the projector you're looking for, and you're good to go!

I'm using a DIY screen, and am quite happy with the results. Ultimately, I would love to go with an Acoustically Transparent 2:35 one, but it didn't fit my budget. Always something to upgrade to one day

Cheers,

[bpape]

I'm confused. On one hand you say you're using an acoustic ceiling. Then you say you're floating a floor and using staggered stud walls. If you want any kind of isolation, you need a drywall ceiling with full insulation above. A drop acoustic ceiling will do nothing in terms of isolation.

Bryan

[don5738]

bpape wrote:

I'm confused. On one hand you say you're using an acoustic ceiling. Then you say you're floating a floor and using staggered stud walls. If you want any kind of isolation, you need a drywall ceiling I thoughtwith full insulation above. A drop acoustic ceiling will do nothing in terms of isolation.

Bryan

Well I thought if I added R30 in ceiling and then acoustic drop panels approx. 4inches drop would give air space above for isolation I have seen those type of ceilings in real theaters so now I have a decision to make drywall ceiling or this drop well I will post pics,when i figure out how

thanks again I have alot of questions hope to get answers here.

[bpape]

That will give you some bass absorbtion for the INSIDE of the room control. It will do zero for bass isolation to the outside world. It will help a little bit with stopping mid and high frequencies moving both ways - but bass is the thing that's the most annoying and hardest to stop. That just takes mass and decoupling.

Bryan

[don5738]

Hey Bryan,

Well I know about Bass noise and how hard to isolate, my main concern is my quality of sound inside room secondly noise outside of room I figred if I could stop sound leakage from room the quality inside would be better I might be wrong on this but then again I'm still learning I try and read up on all this stuff


Don5738

[bpape]

You are correct. Isolating the room from outside sound will reduce the ambient noise level of the room and provide you a quieter, more dynamically capable listening space. Again, unfortunately, a drop ceiling doesn't fit into this plan.

Bryan