MitchOK Theater Construction Thread

**mitchok** · **02-17-08, 09:48 AM**

Quote:

bpape wrote:

Looks pretty good. If you haven't purchased it yet, I'd recommend at least 14 ga for the speaker wire. If you want to completely future proof, run 12ga. 16ga will work but it's pretty skimpy for 4 ohm speakers over much of any distance.

Bryan

My mistake... I had it in my head when I was doing the layout that 16 ga was minimum, but I actually bought 14 ga from monoprice. Longest run is about 35' to LF. However, I didn't buy enough for spare locations so I may purchase 12 ga and run that to fronts and centers. Also, I may run a couple of pairs to the sub location. Although this sub doesn't need it, my older one does and speaker wire is relatively cheap (as long as you steer clear of those monsterous prices).

Mitch

**tritonman** · **02-17-08, 11:45 AM**

Quote:

mitchok wrote:

My mistake... I had it in my head when I was doing the layout that 16 ga was minimum, but I actually bought 14 ga from monoprice. Longest run is about 35' to LF. However, I didn't buy enough for spare locations so I may purchase 12 ga and run that to fronts and centers. Also, I may run a couple of pairs to the sub location. Although this sub doesn't need it, my older one does and speaker wire is relatively cheap (as long as you steer clear of those monsterous prices).

Mitch

Im not sure if you already bought your sub cable but to save cost in the cable i recommend using a standard RG6 coax cable with RCA connectors at each end. The rca connectors can be bought at any Radio Shack and of course you can get RG6 coax cable just about anywhere. I personally used Quad Shielded RG6 which is a bit overkill for a sub (at least my run) but RG6 is 75ohm rated and it can easily be used as your sub cable. Im using it with my SVS 20-39 PCi.

For my speaker cable I used 12ga solid strand electrical cable that is in-wall rated for runs (not the stuff you use to hook up your outlets and lights etc). It can be had pretty cheap at any hardware store. Its usually on their big wire roller and the stuff can be had for about .07 a foot or a little more. The only thing about the solid strand copper is its a pain to run because it is so stiff but it works very well and is cheaper than most speaker cable. It comes in a few diff colors..Black, Red and Blue. It can also take a beating on corners and being bent better than most speaker cable can and the jacket used on it seems to be better than some of the cheaper end speaker jackets. I used banana plugs at each end to simplify attaching to speakers and the back of the receiver as well.

**bonehead848** · **02-17-08, 12:49 PM**

Quote:

mitchok wrote:

My mistake... I had it in my head when I was doing the layout that 16 ga was minimum, but I actually bought 14 ga from monoprice. Longest run is about 35' to LF. However, I didn't buy enough for spare locations so I may purchase 12 ga and run that to fronts and centers. Also, I may run a couple of pairs to the sub location. Although this sub doesn't need it, my older one does and speaker wire is relatively cheap (as long as you steer clear of those monsterous prices).

Mitch

Just to make sure were on the right page, your svs will use an rca connection not speaker wire. Also, you can certainly follow tritons recommendation with the coax but I would very strongly recommend one of the cables from monoprice here

http://monoprice.com/products/subdep...02&cp_id=10236

By the time you bought a coax and the connectors from the evil that is radioshack you could save on the monoprice cables. You can use either the standard or high quality for a pb10(for an extra $2 the high quality is a better deal). I have used them on my huge diy sub and it sounded incredible. Also, dont sweat 12 gauge. Unless you are planning on amping your surrounds or buying monster surrounds 14 gauge is FINE. This is especially true if your longest run is under 30 feet.

**mitchok** · **02-17-08, 01:44 PM**

Quote:

bonehead848 wrote:

Just to make sure were on the right page, your svs will use an rca connection not speaker wire. Also, you can certainly follow tritons recommendation with the coax but I would very strongly recommend one of the cables from monoprice here

http://monoprice.com/products/subdep...02&cp_id=10236

By the time you bought a coax and the connectors from the evil that is radioshack you could save on the monoprice cables. You can use either the standard or high quality for a pb10(for an extra $2 the high quality is a better deal). I have used them on my huge diy sub and it sounded incredible. Also, dont sweat 12 gauge. Unless you are planning on amping your surrounds or buying monster surrounds 14 gauge is FINE. This is especially true if your longest run is under 30 feet.

Yes I am running a 75 ohm sub cable. Actually went for bluejeans LC-1 cable because the length was in between. A bit more expensive than monoprice. As you said, this is all I need for the SVS.

I was just looking to a what if as far as running speaker wires to this space.

Not really shown on my plan...I am actually going to build a small door (12"w x 8"h) in the wall near floor to allow access to between wall area (about 10" wide) so I can put a UPS (or at least a surge protector) in line for the sub. This way the cables are out of site and all that is in the room is the sub with the power and sub cable exposed.

So much to think about before we can close up.

Mitch

**mitchok** · **11-27-08, 10:36 AM**

Hello Everybody and Happy Thanksgiving.

Its been a while since my last update & I apologize. I won't bore you with details but life has gotten in the way of the construction project. Job, surgeries, son's college, etc. etc. Suffice it to say, I am very thankful today that my family is healthy and we are going to enjoy the day. I certainly wish all of you a safe and happy Thanksgiving.

Anyway, attached a few pictures. Since the last update these items have been completed.

Rough electrical
Insulation and sheetrock/tape/texture.
Snack area cabinet bases
Equipment cabinet
Trim around back door

I am currently working on projector lift. The basics is that it needs to be a 24" straight drop. I am using a Firgelli Auto FA-150-S-12-24 linear actuator ($138 with brackets) as the beef with a pair of 24" ball bearing guides ($39). I also purchased seperately a 12v 15 amp power supply ($15). I still need to get a limit switches and a up-off-down manual switch.

I am trying to mostly finish each area before moving on. Next up is some additional trim work and trim around ceiling vault area to conceal rope lights.

Take care and God Bless.

MitchOK

**salvasol** · **11-27-08, 02:59 PM**

Looking nice!!!

**Prof.** · **11-27-08, 05:31 PM**

Ah,yes..I remember this project..It's starting to come together nicely..
Keep the pics coming..

**bpape** · **11-29-08, 09:15 AM**

Hey Mitch

Sounds like you've had quite a year - glad things are going well now for you and the family. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

Bryan

**mitchok** · **11-29-08, 10:27 AM**

Thanks Bryan and I hope all is well with you and yours.

I am thinking about posting some details on the projector lift construction. I have searched the forum before and I have seen a few posts for DIY lifts, but maybe my experience with it can add to the information. Being a aero/mech engineer... I am bound by law to over-engineer it!

Let me know if you think this is a needed topic or has already been well covered.

**bpape** · **11-29-08, 10:30 AM**

Hey Mitch

Never too many DIY threads - especially for something like a PJ mount that's 'over-engineered'.

Bryan

**salvasol** · **11-29-08, 01:51 PM**

I agree with Bryan ....there's nothing more frustrating (at least to me) than looking for DIY ideas to build something and don't be able to find anything ...

**mitchok** · **01-18-09, 08:04 PM**

Ok.. here is an update on the Projector Lift. I have done some learning on this and made a few course corrections. My objective was a 24" straight lift that could support a apprx 12 lb Epson Powerlite Home Cinema 1080 UB (apprx w20" x d18" x h7"). I have a vaulted celing and needed to make the PJ get by a planned ceiling fan. I started with a design that used two guides in the front and lifted from rear. I was worried this design would have to much play and I was right. I switched to the design you see here, but had to buy a new linear actuator because the roof inside the PJ enclosure was too shallow. I would have made the PJ enclosure taller to start with... but had attic structure issues. I ended up going with a Firgelli Auto 18" stroke/150 lb (FA-150-S-12-18). Now I have a spare 24" actuator!!!! The guides/drawer slides are heavy duty ball bearing 24" full extension, but in hindsight, I could have gone with shorter ones.

With this design, I ended up with a 17" lift. I tested the PJ and it looks like I will have plenty of adjustment. I can always tilt the PJ slightly too.

The power supply I bought off of Ebay. Mean Well SP-150-12 General Purpose Power Supply. Output Voltage 12 volts DC; Min current 0 amps; Max current 12.5 amps, Power 150 watts; Input voltage 85-264 vac; Universal AC Input; Built in active PFC Function; Built in constant current limiting circuit; Low profile 33mm thickness; LED indicator for power on; output voltage adjustment range 11.4 - 13.2v.

The aluminum angle (three sizes) I got at Home Depot.

I wired the power the 12V Power supply to switched duplex plug (ceiling of PJ box). A switch along with a up/down toggle was installed in a cabinet. The up/down was DPDT toggle(mom-off-mom) rated for DC and wired for reversing. I used 14-4 SO to get to from the fuse block to the toggle. Other parts I bought at radio shack. I will be posting a final wiring diagram once I get done with the limit switch (for up postion) and tidy things up. For now I am posting pictures. It was functional and works real nice. Lessons learned. FOr instance... carefully measuring the location of the vertical sides relative to the side was important to get the slides to line up. I had to mess with this a bit. I also positioned the actuator at approximately the CG of the platform and the PJ. Also, if I could have built the enclosure separate and then just mounted into the ceiling... it wouldn't have been such a pain to get a nice square box.

If you look at the rough in pics, I have a small area off to the side. This is for the eventual UPS that the PJ will plug into. I routed the HDMIs and other signal cables to the forward wall and kept them away from any power. I will eventually frame for access doors to the rear.

Anyway... I feel like I am about 85%. Need to fill a few extra holes, finish mounting up limit switch, access doors, and paint.

I will post some more on this topic as I get finished up.

Mitchok

Note... the picture of the linear actuator is the 24" model...not the 18" one I ended up using.

**raw23062** · **01-20-09, 12:12 PM**

WOW!! That's extremely impressive, love the attention to detail. I can't wait to see the finished product.

**Prof.** · **01-20-09, 06:08 PM**

Very nicely done..

How long does it take to fully extended from the closed position ?

**salvasol** · **01-20-09, 07:17 PM**

Quote:

Prof. wrote:

Very nicely done..

How long does it take to fully extended from the closed position ?

I bet a couple of minutes

...

**mitchok** · **01-20-09, 08:49 PM**

32 secs+/-... and I didn't put a turbocharger on it!

Advertised spec is 0.5" per sec. so that is about right... it is lightly loaded (i.e. ~27 lbs w/PJ of 150 lb rating). didn't see any difference up or down.

32 secs seems ok to me to move a $$$$ piece of equipment.

MitchOK

**salvasol** · **01-20-09, 08:54 PM**

Quote:

mitchok wrote:

32 secs+/-... and I didn't put a turbocharger on it!

That's really fast, I thought it will take more than that

**mitchok** · **01-20-09, 08:58 PM**

Not bad at all... its fairly quiet... nice hum. I am glad I went with four slides... that really took the play out. I have gone up and down about 3 dozen times now. No binding and the gap spacing doesn't seem to be an issue at all... phew! I did look at a stepper motor option and use cables/pulley, but the solid feel of the linear actuator made me feel better... it if stops working... it just stops working and I don't get an unspooling potential like you might have with a cable system... if that makes sense.

**Sonnie** · **01-26-09, 12:12 AM**

Mitch... this is going to be one snazzy looking and functional HT room. I can't wait to see the finished project.

That projector lift is excellent work

**mitchok** · **07-01-09, 05:19 PM**

Hi all. First of all... Happy 4th to everyone. Its been a while since I've been on. My job has had me on the road most of the year. Despite that I have made some progress on the MitchOK "Neverending Project" Home Theater just haven't posted in a while. I have a day off Friday and plan on making more progress this weekend. I promise to post some updated photos on Sunday or Monday. Take care everyone and be safe this weekend.

MitchOK

**bpape** · **07-01-09, 05:25 PM**

You too Mitch. Looking forward to seeing the progress.

Bryan

**Prof.** · **07-01-09, 08:14 PM**

I'll be interested to see your progress as well..

**mitchok** · **09-12-09, 05:38 PM**

Ok... getting close to sanding and staining... just working on a few loose ends. Here's some pics to show progress. I ran 12V wire behind the crown molding and down the columns for some LED accent lights... I show you details in next post. I went ahead and installed the screen even though I will need to mask off when we start staining. Had a few issues with the dimensions and needed to install it to figure the trim out. Posted some lessons learned in the Screen forum.

Hope everyone is doing well.

MitchOK

**Prof.** · **09-12-09, 07:08 PM**

Nice timber work..

Should look great when it's all stained..

**Gregavi** · **09-26-09, 02:28 AM**

Quote:

bpape wrote:

Just a heads up.... Putting speakers in cabinets like that is a bad idea. Putting subs in a cab like that is a worse idea. ANYTHING that is built in should be designed to be built in (ie in-wall designs).

An open design will give much better performance from the same equipment.

Just something to consider.

Bryan

I was reading through this thread and it caught my eye that Mitch was building a cabinet in which to place his speakers. I was considering doing something similar with my front mains and center. The question was not answered: Why is it a bad idea? Is it that: just being confined in the cabinet will effect the sound substantually. Also, shouldn't the screen be at the same plane as the L/C/R speakers?
PS-Nice job Mitch

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