Optoma HD20

**custard** · **08-12-09, 09:35 AM**

i have made the jump from 720p to 1080p and bought the hd20 to replace my the optoma hd65 i have.

delivery was received this morning so i hastily set it up to my 1080i source.
i took some pics with the projector set to the default reference and some ambient light present.

the reference setting is supposed to be as close to D65 as posssible. i'll test that as a starting point with a colorimeter when night falls.

**custard** · **08-12-09, 04:54 PM**

i was asked by a member in the uk to try and compare performance of my old and new projector

the pics are not the best...

HD20 on the left, HD65 on the right.

the HD65 has less than 50hrs on its current bulb.

firstly a comparison of the hd20 on reference default and the hd65 at my own calibrated setting.

note that the contrast/brilliant color on the hd65 had to be reduced to achieve a calibration i was happy with, and to remove the artifacts i use to see in bright scenes.

in the next set the HD20 was left at reference but the hd65 setting was changed to bright default.

**Prof.** · **08-12-09, 07:50 PM**

The HD20 screenshots look very good and very natural, particularly for the factory default settings..
Optoma has obviously stabilised the colour balance now in that model..

The HD65 on the other hand has a very exaggerated colour scale out of the box, and it's well known that it takes some 200 hours for it to stabilise..
From my own experience with the HD65, I wasn't able to get anywhere near the correct colour balance until 150 hrs of running.
Now it's at nearly 200 hrs,.and the colour balance looks excellent..

Whilst screenshots comparisons are interesting, they don't really give a true picture unless both projectors have been professionally calibrated..

I would be interested to hear of your opinion about the difference in the definition between the two..bearing in mind that the HD65 is 720p. and the HD20 is 1080p..

**custard** · **08-13-09, 06:22 PM**

The biggest difference are whiter whites and image clarity. blacks are about the same.

i am able to sit much closer now without noticing SDE. the other point of note is that the grey ramp is smooth out the box unlike the hd65.

IMO the move up to 1080p was definitely worth the outlay.

**Prof.** · **08-13-09, 07:54 PM**

Quote:

custard wrote:

i am able to sit much closer now without noticing SDE. the other point of note is that the grey ramp is smooth out the box unlike the hd65.

IMO the move up to 1080p was definitely worth the outlay.

Yeah..that was one thing I don't like about the HD65..You can't get an even grey ramp pattern..no matter what you set the contrast and brightness to..
It doesn't seem to affect the image though..

The HD20 sounds like a nice entry level 1080p projector..

**custard** · **08-15-09, 05:48 PM**

using PS3 media server i projected some 1920x1080 stills. camera was set on custom white balance (still not exact though to what i see in person).
the white side wall reflections are a problem for me which is why the projection wall is grey. i have partially calibrated the PJ.

hope the pics are better! photobucket downsizing of images is a bit of a problem.

**Prof.** · **08-15-09, 09:02 PM**

Very nice custard...
Are these still out of the box settings?

I would strongly recommend that you blackout as much as possible..around the screen perimeter, and along the sidewalls and ceiling, out from the front of the screen..similar to what Al Briscoe did..
This makes a huge difference to the perceived contrast..

**custard** · **08-16-09, 02:48 AM**

Quote:

Prof. wrote:

Very nice custard...
Are these still out of the box settings?

I would strongly recommend that you blackout as much as possible..around the screen perimeter, and along the sidewalls and ceiling, out from the front of the screen..similar to what Al Briscoe did..
This makes a huge difference to the perceived contrast..

i have partially calibrated as the reference setting was abit on the cold side.

you'll have to tell the missus that i need to paint/add a black border to her lounge wall and add curtains or darken the side walls.

**Prof.** · **08-16-09, 07:52 PM**

Quote:

custard wrote:

you'll have to tell the missus that i need to paint/add a black border to her lounge wall and add curtains or darken the side walls.

Oh..I see! That's a pity..

Maybe some of this!!

**custard** · **08-17-09, 06:59 PM**

Quote:

Prof. wrote:

Oh..I see! That's a pity..

Maybe some of this!!

well

has not helped me so maybe

will work instead.

heres the calibration i have acheived so far. the color gamut is the one that is proving difficult.

the settings i have with 37 hours on the lamp.
mode: user
contrast: 47
brightness: 38
color: 53
tint: 46
sharpness: 8
noise reduction: 0
gamma: standard
curve type: 1
offset: -2
color temp: warm
red gain: 5
green gain: 0
blue gain: -5
red bias: -1
green bias: 0
blue bias: 0
lamp bright mode: off

**Prof.** · **08-17-09, 08:12 PM**

Custard..I wouldn't worry too much about colour balance at this stage..
If the HD20 is anything like the HD65..you'll need to have at least 150hrs. on the lamp before it stabilises..

I found my original calibrations were way off after I had reached 170hrs.and after re-calibrating, I now have an excellent well balanced image..

**custard** · **08-18-09, 02:53 PM**

thanks for the advice Prof.

i expect the calibration setting to change afair bit upto 150hrs as i have already noticed a change in readings between now and when i first had the projector.

i'll stick with what i have for now.

**rannalf** · **08-23-09, 10:17 PM**

Just curious....since the price is close to equal (I think), what would be your take (either of you) on a comparison of the HD20 and the Epson HC720. I know some have had problems with bulb life in the Optomas in the past, but if I could go 1080p vs. 720p, would there be any downside?

**Prof.** · **08-24-09, 08:25 PM**

Well firstly you're looking at two totally different projectors..

The HD20 is a DLP..and the HC720 is an LCD..
That's your first consideration, as to what type of system you prefer..

I've heard very good reports about both units, particularly for entry level projectors..
The HC720 is the brighter of the two, so if you have any ambient light considerations, or planning on using a grey screen, then that's something to take into account..

Optoma's certainly don't have a good reputation for lamp life..

The difference between 1080p and 720p. is debatable..
Some say that you can see the difference quite clearly, others say that they can't see any difference..particularly at this level of projector..with both types having low contrast ratio's..

If you're not able to see both units in operation (and then they would have to be viewed in the same environment) all you can do is go on other peoples experience with each type..

**rannalf** · **08-24-09, 10:07 PM**

Thanks for the reply, Prof. I agree with having to go on reviews/advice, since I don't have any place to demo them. Do you know if I buy the 720 in the Shack store (Amazon), if they include the extra bulb?

**Prof.** · **08-25-09, 08:02 PM**

The Shack store doesn't seem to have that model listed yet..

**kiwi_guy** · **08-25-09, 11:50 PM**

Hello all,
Was contemplating purchasing the HD70 for a long time... mainly as a companion for my xbox360 because of rave reviews, pricing and well they look like a match made in heaven; then I stumble across this forum and to my delight Optoma have again brought true HD to the masses.
My problem is I live in New Zealand. We here are blessed with great people, great scenery but completely ridiculous pricing for technology (if they ever get here). For example the HD70 still retails for $NZ2699 (US$1850 ***).
Now by chance my girlfriend travels frequently through Alaska and Florida for her job on a cruise liner so my question is:
Would you recommend I get one of these from the States for the low low price of $US999 (or better) or do you foresee problems in my plan to save money?
Here in New Zealand we have PAL-B TV system (dunno if that matters) and run on 220V. I suppose I can get an inverter for power or possibly a replacement cord if the projector is able to be switched between operating voltages.
Warranty is not an issue as I will treat this like my baby.
Thank you all for your time and look forward to comments and advice.

**Prof.** · **08-26-09, 12:08 AM**

Hi kiwi guy and welcome to the Shack..

It won't be a problem purchasing a projector from the US..
The projector will automatically select the correct voltage and the TV system is not determined by the projector..There is no selection for PAL or NTSC..
This will be set by your TV or set top box..

I recently bought an HD65 from Canada, and all I had to change was the 3 pin plug!

I thought Australian prices were bad, but that's just plain ridiculous!!

**kiwi_guy** · **08-26-09, 12:25 AM**

Thank you thank you thank you for the prompt reply
Looks llike xmas is gona come a early this year
Didn't notice you were in Oz... so just to confirm all i will need is a 3pin plug to suit NZ and I am away happy?
if so HD baby in all its glory coming to a home near me soon

**Prof.** · **08-26-09, 12:38 AM**

All I had to do was to unplug the power cord from my old projector (which had the Oz. 3 pin plug on it) and switch her on!.

**kiwi_guy** · **08-26-09, 12:49 AM**

Firstly, props for prompt reply
Secondly, at the risk of sounding like a complete noob, do these cords have a "brick" on them like laptop power cords or are they just plain cords. Just wondering how difficult it will be to track one of these down if they do have a brick
Thirdly, any experience/comments on using an Ikea Tupplar roller blind as a makeshift screen?
Thanks again

**Prof.** · **08-26-09, 01:10 AM**

Quote:

kiwi_guy wrote:

Firstly, props for prompt reply
Secondly, at the risk of sounding like a complete noob, do these cords have a "brick" on them like laptop power cords

Yes..They are just like your everyday plug in electric jug cords...generally readily available..

Quote:

Thirdly, any experience/comments on using an Ikea Tupplar roller blind as a makeshift screen?
Thanks again

I haven't used one personally, but they are very popular in the UK..
I looked into them once but couldn't find one big enough for my application..and that's their main limitation..otherwise they make quite a good screen by all accounts..

**kiwi_guy** · **08-26-09, 01:17 AM**

thank u

**custard** · **10-06-09, 05:24 PM**

211 hours on the HD20 now. i have recalibrated and as Prof predicted the color gamut has settled down much better.

these settings are using a PS3 via hdmi. rgb was set to FULL with superwhite ON.

with my large grey wall been used for projecting onto i have tried to retain brightness as much as possible for myself but have also carried out another calibration where brightness is not an issue.

both of the calibrations were taken reflectively off a matte white panel.

REGULAR CALIBRATION

mode: user
contrast: 47
brightness: 40
color: 47
tint: 49
sharpness: 7
noise reduction: 0
gamma: standard
curve type: 1
offset: -2
color temp: warm
red gain: 4
green gain: 0
blue gain: -5
red bias: -2
green bias: -2
blue bias: -2
lamp bright mode: off

MY CALIBRATION SETTINGS

mode: user
contrast: 47
brightness: 37
color: 47
tint: 49
sharpness: 7
noise reduction: 0
gamma: standard
curve type: 1
offset: -2
color temp: warm
red gain: 7
green gain: 2
blue gain: -3
red bias: 1
green bias: 2
blue bias: 2
lamp bright mode: off

**Blaser** · **10-07-09, 04:36 PM**

Good job Custard!

I have read somewhere else that calibrating the 100% color saturation points is good but not the best you can do. Actually this is because projectors do not tend to be linear in behavior and are generally less saturated than necessary below 100% color input signal.

What I mean is if you have a 100% saturated red input signal with the projector outputting 100% red color, if you try a 50% saturated red signal input, you'll most probably obtain 20 or 30% saturated red output. To overcome this, I calibrate my projector at 75% saturation points (approx.). This leads to a more linear response up to 75% saturation input signal (where most of the colors practically are), then you'll find that with a 100% input signal, you'll have an oversaturated output from the projector (but linear colors up to 75% input signal). And anyway oversaturated output is not that noticeable by the eye but a good 0-75% input range will make the picture more lively with more pop. From the other side, the power supply of the projector won't be able to deal with a lot of oversaturation, which is a good thing to limit the oversaturation error above 75% saturation input signal...

I don't know if I'm clear

but I'll be happy to elaborate a little bit more if you want me to!

Enjoy...

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