philips ic convergence repaire help

I got a Philips 46pp9302 projection TV. I believe the chassis is DPTV33 0.
My convergence was way off, so I replaced the ic’s stk392-120. I put it all back together and the results were the same. The blue looks ok. The red, I can move the convergence up – down, the right/left does not work.

I ran the TV for 30min trying to adjust the convergence. When it didn’t work I took the temperature of the ic’s with an inferred heat gun. The ic closest to the end of the board was 134 degrees F. the one closest to the middle was running 10 degrees F less. This seemed to be constant as it warmed up.

From a different site I was told to look at resistors 3157 and 3158. I looked at them and with the board out; I put the old multi-meter on them. Both resistors read 3.9 ohms. So I checked all the same resistors in the area (3149-3160). They all read 3.9 ohms. Resistor 3153 and 3154 had no readings. I am thinking that these might be the culprits. But these resistors physically look different. Why? I checked the color code; it looks like they should be 3 ohms +-5%. I am tentative to replace these two just because they are different from the others. Am I missing something here? The TV was bought new and never been repaired. It seems odd that the factory would switch resistors in the middle of the board. Does it seem that I should replace those two? It was also odd that they were placed in opposite directions. I thought in resistors it didn’t matter?

If I replace the two resistors, do I have to buy 2 new ic’s?

I also checked the big stand off resistors in the area. They all read 100.1 to 101.1 ohms.
Can anyone help me in what my next step should be?
Thank you in advance,
kuby

i would show pictures but i don't know how to reduce them.
they are jpg files in adobe photoshop.
thanks again for all your help.

kuby

[lcaillo]

Change the resistors and see. Chances are the chips are fine if you got them from a reliable supplier.

i found that the resistor is 6.8 ohms +-5% 1 watt.
do i have to buy the Philips resistor for $25.00 or
can i go down to the radio shack or online and buy the $2.00 resistor?
is the Philips OEM that much better?
what makes the Philips part # so expensive?

thanks for the help,
kuby

[lcaillo]

As long as the resistor is the same type and value it will be fine. Don't use carbon resistors, but other than that, you are ok with other sources. Do not give yourself a headache trying to figure out why and how Philips does things.

[<^..^>Smokey Joe]

Why are you replacing resistors?

Converge is set by service menu adjustments(normally)
Do you have an electrical licence?

[lcaillo]

Convergence output IC failures are often accompanied by open load resistors on the output to the convergence correction yokes. See the discussion at:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/foru...html#post43810

DIY repairs are common and a license is not required in the US to repair one's TV. Good safety practices should be followed, however, as there are dangerous voltages present in a television.

Thank you for all the help. The resistors are in and it works.
Now, I got another question. When I put the new ic's in I had no color. So I turned up the knobs for each color in the back (the gain I believe they're called). Now, after I did all the convergence from the menu screen, it looks like my images are out of focus. What is the correct way to get the gain on each color correct and how do you focus each color? I’m in need of a little fine tuning.
Thanks again,
Kuby

[lcaillo]

You likely adjusted the electrostatic focus instead of the G2 (screens) which you should not have been messing with anyway. Adjsut the focus control for the best focus in each tube and the G2 so that you have good black level in each tube with the video controls in the menu centered. Then tweak the G2s for the best gray scale at the bottom of the range.

Ok, you just lost me with all that technician jargon. I attached a picture of what I touched. I had to turn the gain up because when I put the new ic’s in the red and green gun were not glowing.
So, last night I warmed the TV up for an hour, went into the menu and hit the auto focus (it runs then keeps saying “wait 20 minutes for TV to warm up”). Then I went and lower the brightness (3/4 down), put color to zero, even out contrast, and touched the rest that had to do with color (figure I can always go up later). Next, I did all the multi-point convergences and saved them. Next ,I went to a blank screen (aux 4), put a blanket over the front of the set, went to the back, the lights in the garage were off (only the garage door opener light on), with the back black panel off, I cleaned the lenses and the mirror so everything was crystal clear, then covered 2 lenses with cardboard and adjusted the gain of each color individually. I turned the gain up just enough to start to turn the screen the color of the lens and then turned it back a little so it just turned black. I figured I had turned everything down on the menu so I could turn all that up later. After I did this for all 3 colors and they looked like they were the same brightness, I went to the menu screen and went to multi-convergence screen. With this screen displayed, from the back, I again cover the lenses and focused each color to the back of the screen. I noticed the blue would not get as clear as the other two (real faint around the edges). Next, covered the back and went to the front, redid the convergences, redid the auto focus, and adjusted all the colors. I noticed on the blue convergence screen, it was hard to see the blue lines and when I matched the blue and green up it was fuzzy and not a clear white. Redid all the above work a couple times to try to clear this up, but to no avail.
The TV looks dull to me and the colors don’t look real distinguished. The reds don’t look red enough and the Indianapolis Colts jersey’s don’t look blue enough.
Sorry for the novel but I thought I should explain in detail what I’ve done.
Is there anything else I can do? Am I on the right track in what I’ve done thus far?
Please help in layman’s terms if possible.

Thank again for all your help,
Kuby

[lcaillo]

Philips sets almost always develop contamination in the coolant of the green and blue CRTs eventually. Look carefully into the lens with the set off with a flashlight and see if there is a cloudy debris in the coolant.

thanks again for all the help.
i got another question, i played around with focus and the gain. i got it the best i could, but i notice that the red and orange and the blue and indigo run together. i had a dvd that had a kids rainbow on it, big bright with distinct colors on it. am i on the right track that i can't fine tune it because the blue and green guns have the bacteria in it? is this what causing the colors to run together?
thanks,
kuby

[lcaillo]

Do you see the contamination when you look into the lens with a flashlight with the set off? If you do then you need a coolant change. If not then there is some other issue.

i could not see anything. with the tv off, i took a flashlight and a mirror. i shined the light down the lens and looked with the mirror. i could not see anything different from all three. they all looked black. i am sure they must be contaminated. the tv is a 2002. when i put the screen to the mulipoint convergance, cover the blue and green. the red is real bright and distincted, when i cover the blue and red, the green is a little dimmer and not quite as focused as the red. then when i cover the red and green, the blue is real hazey, especially hazey and faint around the edges. in fact, if i turn the gain up to see the edge blue crosshairs, i get a blue washout before i can get a bright blue crosshair. Would going into the service menu help correct any of this?

[lcaillo]

If you have contaminated coolant, nothing will improve the situation except replacing the coolant.