How do Optoma projectors stack up?

[yourgrandma]

How do they stack up against slightly more costly models from, say Sharp? I remember looking at a recent ED Sharp madel that put out a much better picture than even more expensive HD models from "off" brands. The Sharp I was looking at was around 600 and the picture at a given size was far superior to the Epson a nd Canon High Def projectors they had in store.

So really my question is whether the Optoma is a really nice projector for its price, or if its a get what you pay for type deal. From what I've seen, a nice ED looks better than a cheap HD, but i havent had a chance to look at an optoma, so I'll need some guidance.
Thanks.

[Richard W. Haines]

I can't answer that. The only other DLP I've seen in operation is a friend's BenQ and I think
the Optoma looks better. The HD70 puts out a very sharp and rich 720 HD image and upscales
standard DVDs that look good too. I like the A1 option which generates nice contrast
in dark scenes. Even the H27 looks above average for standard DVDs and you can get that obsolete
model very cheap on ebay now. I always tweek the image on the menu. 10% more red gives
better results in my judgment with contrast at 60 and brightness at 55.

I have a 10 foot wide glass beaded pull down screen in my screening room (which was really
set up for 35mm projection) and the HD70 fills up the same image area as a 35mm anamorphic
print. It looks better than a high speed 35mm print shown in the megaplexes but not as good
as a 35mm Technicolor print but what does? Still, it simulates the Technicolor look on DLP
if it's a good transfer. I don't see any pixelation (screen door effect) at 15 feet from the screen
with the HD70. I see occasional screen door on white objects or skies on the H27 but as long
as the image has color in it, it looks solid. I guess for the price, I'd recommend the HD70. I got
it for $800 (actually $1000 but a $200 rebate which I still haven't received). The HD70 inputs
from HDMI cable and the H27 from a DVI cable from the players.


I'm still relatively new to home video projection since I've been a film collector
since 1985 with an archive of 35mm and 16mm dye transfer Technicolor prints
along with low fade camera negative vault copies of the feature films I've
produced. I'm still learning about this format and am gradually upgrading
the equipment over the years. Now if you asked me about movie projectors
I would say the best one every manufactured was the Norelco Todd-AO
dual format machine introduced in 1955. It could play 70mm 6 track magnetic
stereo, 35mm magnetic stereo and 35mm Perspecta stereo. It has a curved
gate for better focus and is adaptable to Dolby Stereo by replacing the optical
sound head. Unfortunately, no room for a digital penthouse because of the
mag head clusters. That's not what I have though. I have an old navy semi-portable 35mm DeVry projector that is very durable and has a rock steady
gate. Below the anamorphic lens is the HD70 DLP on a stand.

[jr1414]

I'm a big believer in the Optoma projectors, but as with any projector, calibration is critical. When properly calibrated, most of the projectors are pretty comparible, but I like the Optoma's out of the box balance.

Determine your viewing conditions (ambient light, viewing distance, etc) and then determine what suits you best. But don't be afraid of the Optomas, they are competitive and reliable.

[yourgrandma]

That's good to hear, I always like getting a good deal, and if they look as good as they sound, i think that might be where Im going.

By calibration, do you mean profesional calibration, or is it something I can muddle through myself without specialised equipment?

[Prof.]

My next upgrade to 720p. will be a HD70...Heard nothing but good reports on them..

[Richard W. Haines]

If you mean adjusting the image, just go into the menu and try different settings to adjust the
picture to your liking. I do recommend putting on the A1 function which darkens night scenes
and gives them rich contrast which leaving the brighter setting for daytime scenes.

As I said, if you like the "Technicolor look", you can adjust the contrast to 60, brightness to
50 and in the advanced setting, put red at 10% more than the other colors.

In general, I found I have to adjust each movie to make it look good. A film like "The Godfather"
is so dark to begin with, I needed to brighten it to about 65 just to see some detail. On the
other hand on a garish color film like "Singin' in the Rain", I needed to lower the color saturation
setting so it doesn't make the fleshtones too dark.

The Optoma HD70 will show incredible detail on the faces. You can see every pore of the
actor's face if it's a well photographed film mastered in HD like "The Wild Bunch". In fact,
it's more detailed than the original Technicolor prints. Of course, you can also see the make
up on their faces which the film prints tended to blend in more so it was less noticeable.

[yourgrandma]

Are there any similarly priced units with comparable performance that I should check out before taking the plunge? Right now I'm pretty much sold on the HD70, but I wouldnt want to have to hear "Well you shoulda gotten a..."

Just the other day, I wasn't even sure whether I was going to get an LCD or a projector and now I pretty much have it picked out. Funny how fast I'll let myself spend my money.

Now I have to start looking into building the screen, watch out for more pesky questions in the screens sub forum...

[Richard W. Haines]

Actually, you should try to find someone with a DLP to see if you see any 'rainbow effect' which
prevents a small percentage of the population from watching them.

That aside, a DLP will simulate a motion picture image being projected on
a screen if that's what you're going for. No monitor can do that. It seems
to be unique to the DLP system.

In terms of screens, if you're having a temporary instead of a permanent
set up, I recommend those floor models where the screen is pulled up
from the base. No tripod. You can set it up and take it down within
minutes.

[yourgrandma]

The DLP daze wont be a problem, we have a Sharp XV-Z90U ED DLP and the only problem Ive noticed is a screen door effect mostly with reds, but its on a 96" screen which may be sort of big for that PJ.

What do you mean when you say the ability to simulate a motion picture is specific to DLP?, Just that it looks better than say, LCD PJs, or am I misunderstanding?

Check out the DIY screens section to see my screen problem, I can always use the advice of the experianced.

Thanks.

[jr1414]

For calibration you can use a setup disk like DVE or Avia. If you have a very controlled watching area with controlled ambient light, then I might recommend an ISF calibration. But for general purpose with varying ambient light you'll get close enough with the DVD's listed above

[yourgrandma]

Thats pretty much what I figured, theres no way i could afford to have one of thos specialists come out and tell me my setup sucks.

A question about 720i pjs: how much of a differance could I expect to get with my upconverting DVD-1920 versus plain old progressive scan?

[yourgrandma]

Here's another question: Since I really cant justify spending any more money on DirecTV, (I should really call them and tell them where to put that dish) but I still want at least some HD programming, I was planning on getting an HD tuner card for mu computer and using a VGA to connect it since i use DVI for my monitor and the HD70 has a VGA in (thank God). Is this how most others would do it, or is there a better option?

[Richard W. Haines]

DLPs with their unique system of vibrating mirrors gives a similar type of persistence of vision
as a projected motion picture, providing the DVD you're projecting has been mastered for
optimum quality. In fact, they are a bit sharper than a 35mm print, even from the camera
negative. Because of the system, it tends to disguise or hide the fact that the image is
made up of pixels rather than emulsion. Every television monitor I've seen, regardless of
the type or whether it's HD or Standard NTSC, looks exactly like what it is. A video image.

The only problem with DLPs and digital in general is that it exagerates any flaws in the
cinematography as has been discussed in numerous other posts. If a film is sharp and
fine grain, it will look extremelly good on a DLP. If a film has been shot with defused light,
has an underexposed negative or grainy opticals, it's going to look much worse on a DLP
than a film print which tends to blend the differences for a more acceptable image.
Obviously, DLPs are ideal for home set ups with small screens with about a top end of
10 foot wide. Anything bigger and you will see the pixels or screen door effect. If you
tried to show a Standard or HD disc projected on a DLP on a theater screen of 20 foot
or larger, you'll see the pixels and the image will fall apart. 35mm film can be shown on
enormous screens and still retain their grain structure in general so at least in terms of
image size being projected, film is the superior medium. For home theaters, DLPs are
best and simulates a miniature movie theater in your livingroom providing you can watch
them without a rainbow effect. Fortunately, no one in my family suffers from that problem
so we primarliy watch DVDs now and only occasionally screen 35mm prints in my screening
room/theater.

Many film festivals now play DVDs on DLPs in theaters and they look pretty awful that
large but that's how many 'filmmakers' (if that term really applies anymore) are shooting
their amateur features. I still shoot in 35mm and will continue to do so until the format
is eliminated at which point I won't make any more movies. I try to have my movies shown
in 35mm if the festival allows it. Some only do video projection now and what's
worse, the coordinators know so little about the format some aren't even using
a DVI output, just component. When I played "Soft Money" at a New Jersey
festival, that's the cable they were using from the DVD player to the DLP.
Had I known that, I would've brought a DVI cable for a better signal. Of course
you saw the pixels in every movie being presented there which didn't do the
DLP format justice. Of course there are professional DLP projectors but they
run about $100,000 and very few cinemas have them installed nor are they
reliable when used daily. Most cinemas that have DLPs also have a film
print back up in case the system shuts down.

[yourgrandma]

Well, I'm counting my pennies and I think today is the last day of the rebate deal on Optoma projectors, so I believe I'll be heading to Circuit City (the only retailer I've found that carries them) to order mine. Appearently it'll take a week, and there are very limited supplies.

I figured I'd give an update, now we must wait....

[Richard W. Haines]

You have long wait for the rebate. I'm still waiting for mine.

[yourgrandma]

Yay. I just can't wait for the projector to get here. As far as I'm concerned, the rebate is money I already spent. Now I just have to order the cables and I'll be in business to start setting it up.

WOOO!

[Richard W. Haines]

Enjoy. It has a big picture with a short throw. It will really fill up your screen or wall.

[yourgrandma]

So if all goes according to plan, I will be picking up my hd70 tomorrow afternoon.

Now is there an integrated ceiling mount on it, or do I have to buy a mount? Id rather be able to build a 4" riser and have it on its own built on pedistal if you know what I mean.

I need to know so I'm prepared to buy one at a moments notice.

Thanks, and watch for a new thread about my set up adventure.

[DIYHT1]

I have the Optoma HD70 and like it alot, I can't compare it to any other but it does project a crisp nice picture. My only concern is the short trow, I can't shrink anymore the image to fit my 92" completely, but I know that's because of the size of my room....I'd like to hear what you think of the PJ.

[yourgrandma]

Appearently, they are sending it to my house and it's now expected tomorrow. Strange, as I've never gotten a delivery from FedEx on a Saturday.

I'm still trying to figure out weather I need to buy a ceiling mount. I wont really need to have it hang down, so I should be able to mount it directly to the celing, right?

Our Sharp has that, so I hope the Optoma does. Thier webite is unclear on this.

[DIYHT1]

I have it with a ceiling mount, I read somewhere here that is almost a rule of thumb to have it down about 18" from ceiling to vent easier.

[yourgrandma]

I can't swing it that low, I'd hit my head in it. I would also have to apply keystone correction to get the image off the floor. Do you know if it's physically possible to mount it directly to the ceiling? If it can sit on a table, how would 18" be needed if its upside down on the ceiling? That doesn't make sense.

Do you know if there is a mount to hang it included? Like I said before, my Sharp has a pedistal that can be screwed to the ceiling, does the HD70?

Thanks, mang.

[Picture_Shooter]

I used to own a H31 - very happy w/ it. No problems or concerns ever. I used it for about 1 year and about 2200 lamp hours.

I know own a HD70 - so far its nice (1 day of ownership)

I dig Optoma's and really like the warranty that they offer too.

[Richard W. Haines]

Will wonders never cease. I FINALLY got the $200 rebate from Optoma directly. However, I had
to send a number of emails and bug them about it. So if you bought a unit that advertised a
rebate, start emailing them to remind them of it and they'll give a shipping aate for the check.