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Correcting & preventing HDMI hand shake problems

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140K views 26 replies 14 participants last post by  FarmerBob  
#1 ·
The following was provided to me by a Denon USA AVR Technician.

Situation
If you experience sudden unexpected complete, (not partial), loss of audio & video, video only or audio only the cause may be an HDMI hand shake problem.

Possible causation
With the advent of super fast powering up media (source) devices such as a cable box or satellite receiver data can arrive at an AVR and or HDTV too fast. Think of it this way. You have a garden hose with an attached nozzle. When the water is turned on before triggering the nozzle the water in the hose is backed up. Once the nozzle is opened the backed up water rushes out at an above normal force. This is what happens when a source device using an HDMI cable powers up before the AVR and or TV. The data backs up in the HDMI cable. Once the AVR and or TV are completely powered up the oncoming rush of data may cause a disruption, i.e. HDMI hand shake issue.

Correcting a hand shake problem
Disconnect the source devices HDMI cable from the AVR and from the AVR to the HDTV. If the HDMI cable is routed from the source device directly to the HDTV disconnect the HDMI cable from the HDTV. Wait 10 to 20 minutes then reconnect the HDMI cables. IMPORTANT! Power up the AVR and HDTV completely before the source device. In most instances this should resolve the hand shake issue.

Preventing a hand shake issue from re-occurring
To prevent future hand shake issues ensure the AVR is fully powered up before the source device (sat recvr, cable box, etc.). If the HDMI cable is routed directly from the source device to the HDTV ensure the HDTV is fully powered up.

Better yet power up your AV devices in the following sequence - HDTV, AVR then cable box or satellite receiver. This process is very simple if powering up manually. When using a remote you can achieve the same result by programing in power up time delay for the source device.

You may need to consult the maker of your AVR, HDTV, source device and remote control for brand specific information.
 
#2 ·
I think this is one of those situations in which a non-technical answer is actually more confusing. Can someone please explain the water hose analogy in terms a non-idiot can understand?

What they seem to be describing is buffering...in a cable. April fools?

It has nothing to do with the cable. It is simply a matter of the HDMI receiver ICs being ready to pick up the source. The water hose is not a very good analogy.
 
#4 ·
not sure if a AVR has anything to do with it. I had a problem where it's a direct HDMI connection between the cable box and the TV. weird flickering of sound and video and turning either the cable box or the TV off didn't fix the problem or even a power up in the sequence shown in Louis's example. The only way I was able to fix the problem to date was to re-seat the HDMI cable. Replacing the cable didn't do it. I think my problem is different and has something to do with the feed from the cable box or the signal to the cable box. Just weird and doesn't occur a lot but when it does, its aggravating.
 
#5 ·
I had partial audio loss from my previous satellite HD-DVR. The problem was in the HD-DVR. Note how I was carefully used the term "full loss" in my example. Over the past 13 years I can't count the number of mystery problems encountered. As you said "aggravating". Hope your issue is resolved without too much headache.

Thanks for commenting.
 
#8 ·
I hope it proves to be of help to those who are in need.
 
#13 ·
Hello,
Welcome to HTS. I owned an Onkyo TX-NR3007 that exhibited the identical symptoms and amazingly having 3 HDMI Boards swapped in did not fix it. I ended up getting a TX-NR3008 from Onkyo that has been flawless in its place. What AVR are you experiencing this with?

That being said, having Audio via HDMI is a much better than the latter as you can still get the Lossless Codecs from Biu-ray Players with Dual HDMI Outputs and route the rest through the TV and run a Optical Output. That is if out of warranty.
Cheers,
JJ
 
#11 ·
The garden hose analogy doesn't hold any water in this example. :D I think what the author is trying to say is that power up sequence is important to establish good handshaking between the components. If the power up sequence is wrong, the initial handhaking that is setup may have been setup with error flags and eventually something comes along in audio or video or both that further deteriorates the handshaking resulting in a loss of signal. Always turn on the components first that take longer to establish themselves.

A more pertinent analogy is what I experienced in programming my logitech remote. I had it programmed to turn my display on and set the input to HDMI1, turn the AVR on and switch the input to BD/HD, and turn on the bluray player and eject tray. However, the tray never ejected because the turn on time was too long. This would screw up the sequence for next time. I put a 2 sec delay in the command sequence and the tray ejects all the time now.
 
#12 ·
I have had a similar problem with my cable box... My cable box is hooked up via HDMI to my Denon 3806 which then sends the signal to my Epson 1080p. Everything was working fine and then one day I lost my video going to my projector and got the "non compliant HDMI error". I run my computer through the Denon via HDMI and I have no problem but I have only been successful running component to the Denon and then to the projector with the cable box. I also have a Samsung LCD flat panel and that receives HDMI only from the Denon without any problems. Does this sound like a parts failure on the Epson?
 
#15 ·
Data backed up in an HDMI cable...
Well that was my amusement for the day.

BTW, to the folks (including JJ) who mentioned avrs with picture but no sound (especially/specifically Onkyo), a new problem has begun cropping up on XXX8 models of a certain age. For whatever reason, one of the relays is not clicking and you get no sound from the unit.

It's the relay that clicks when audio formats change i.e. from Stereo to 5.1 or to DSX with 7.1 or 9.1 etc.

Identifying units with this problem is simple, when the loss of audio occurs (usually on power up after the unit has been in Standby) the individual speaker icons are not lit up on the front panel. In addition, when the problem occurs, you will find menu options grayed out and non selectable. Toggling through different settings (like the HDMI RIHD settings) and power cycling the avr can sometimes restore the audio (and if your HT is quiet, you will hear the relay click just before sound is restored).

If your Onkyo has this problem, it needs to be sent in. My 5008 is going to be shipped out to a service center tomorrow.


Max
 
#24 ·
I am having issues as well. I have an Onkyo 709 connected to an Epson 6500UB. I had an HDMI cable connecting the receiver to the Epson. One day suddently the picture went black and the sound stayed on. Projector is still on but no pic. I tried using a different HDMI cable still no pic. I then connected the Cable box and projector and now have a pic but no sound. I connected component cables from the receiver to the cable to get sound.

Of course I have not used my PS3 blu ray player because it is connected to the receiver.

It sound as if I have a handshake issue? Or a bad HDMI output on the 709 receiver.

Any ideas on how to determine which? Also on how to correct. Had the receiver for 7 months with no issues.

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
#26 ·
Hello digging up and old thread.

Yesterday I became a proud owner of a second hand Epson 5040ub or in Australia tw8300.

Upgrading from an older NEC m300w office projector that was given to me.

Mac lap top as source to my Nad c501 DAC VIA HDMI which splits signal with video passthrough to projector via HDMI and sends analogue sound to my active monitors VIA XLR.

Never an issue with the NEC projector but as soon as plug the HDMI into the Epson, the computer seems to no longer see the DAC and uses it's own speakers for the sound, the video comes through fine. Whereas with the NEC, the computer recognizes the dac as the control untit for all sound duties.

I've tried swapping the cables, and Input (HDMI 1/2) on projector and DAC to no avail. From what I gather potentially an EDID in the sequence could help me?
 
#27 ·
I just got done with a Handshake Problem with a new Yamaha AVR and Samsung TV. Although Samsungs are notorious for not playing well with external streaming devices, I didn't think the TV was the problem. It worked great with a Pioneer AVR, so I was blaming the Yamaha. I was wrong. It was an AppleTV 4K Gen1 that was the problem.

How I found out was I bought the family a new FireTV 4K Stick Gen2 and when I went to wipe the old HD version, to trade in, I had no problems. I have since installed their Gen1 that was replaced by the Gen2. No problems whatsoever with either Stick and a far better picture and audio quality.

What made me post is seeing you mention EDID and knowing that Macs are overly protective. I got a 65" Samsung from a neighbor that we could not get FireSticks or Roku's or anything without getting handshake issues. So she bought an LG, no problems and told me to take the Samsung away before she kicked it. And now come to find out, and I haven't told her, it is the EDID. As it was with the AppleTV 4K on my Yammi AVR. After I brought that Samsung over here, I needed to split a Hopper3 and a FireStick between two Samsungs via HDMI. I went through several splitters and No Joy. Once I found the "Orei" : 1x2 HDMI Splitter 18G : UHDS-102 even with one input, the Samsung that would never cooperate, is beautiful now! No Handshake issues on either TV. What the Orei has as a feature is which ever TV is on Input 1 their EDID is used throughout the setup. OR you can flip a switch and the unit generates its own EDID for everything. That's my magic bullet.

But it was an EDID issue and with everything across the board in a couple of instances and since you changed a device an incompatability popped up. Which I bet, it may be tripping the HDCP, HD Copy Protection, on the Mac due to the EDID. You need to spoof something in the setup to make the problematic device not convulse/not knowing what's going on.

Just a thought. A long thought on an old thread . . .