Discuss Steve's AV56WP74 Convergence Repair - with Pics in the Brand Specific Service Forums forum.
first check for power to stk's. next look at all solder connections on board pertaining to stks. (resistors, caps, etc.). ...

**ajshoe** · **01-02-12, 08:17 PM**

first check for power to stk's. next look at all solder connections on board pertaining to stks. (resistors, caps, etc.). while doing this re-check your stk's solder connections. You can also check the B,G,R input to the stk's (using a scope) - should be similiar. you have the symptoms of the stk's not working.
Another idea after checking the above items and still have same problem, swap stk's and check symptoms again. If one stk's is bad - the original color should now work. I wouldn't use 160s - I only use the 150's.

**drahko** · **01-02-12, 10:21 PM**

well the fact that it just was working one day and then not the next tells me the connections are ok i looked at all that it all looks good cept at 4 eyelets i had to have some the wire bent over to touch it after i scraped it to the copper . also by the outer stk at the edge of the bored there was a splash of solder that had the 3 fuses right there connected

**drahko** · **01-02-12, 10:28 PM**

r801 c822 r836 where all solder together

**Twin_Rotor** · **01-02-12, 10:30 PM**

Looking at a circuit is not as effective as testing continuity. Just because it worked yesterday doesn't mean the last heat cycle didn't crack a joint. Especially if you have repaired broken traces(if I read your post right)

Edit: You posted before I did! lol

**drahko** · **01-02-12, 10:42 PM**

i never had to use a MMeter before my eyeshave always done trick lol

**drahko** · **01-02-12, 10:46 PM**

just fixed some eyelets really and the fuses where connected so i guess i should replace the resisters and fuses n swap out for the 150s what should i clean the board with and any MMeter tips?

**Twin_Rotor** · **01-02-12, 10:49 PM**

X-ray glasses, eh? lol I wish I could say the same, but most of my experience is in tracing insulated/loomed/buried wires. Especially any J type Jags lol

I hope my convergence repair goes smoothly. This unit you guys are working on looks a bit easier to diassasemble than this 55" Phillips I picked up. I'd rather pull a Lexus V8 than pull that stupid board again

Edit: The only tip I can give you is to sharpen your lead points like a dart. I have feeler leads that use a 24 gage wire(bout the size and stiffness of a paper clip) for back feeding into a harness connector; they work well for board/trace diagnostics. Follow your pin traces to the next eyelet and check for continuity.

**SLR_65** · **01-02-12, 10:57 PM**

I've repaired several of these now and the 160s work fine so there's no reason switch to 150s if you have 160s already bought.

It sounds like the problem is probably the STKs because they had no heat sink grease, but I'm amazed it ran for a year that way.

Check the resistors - these boards usually take one or two.

Did you buy quality chips from Acme or other Leonard recommended vendor, or did you buy from eBay, etc.? These chips are profusely counterfieted and most are junk. GET QUALITY CHIPS FROM A RELIABLE SOURCE!

Damaged traces are immeadiately suspect. Spen some quality time with the service manual and an ohm meter and verify they are indeed making contact.

Good luck!

**SLR_65** · **01-02-12, 10:58 PM**

Twin Rotor - Yeah, Phillips suck to work on! And it seems they ALL need the crt fluid changed and that sucks even more! I don't even look at Phillips/Magnavox any more.

I like the Sony WS500 or 510 sets but the STKs are getting hard to find for them.