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| Manufacturers Service and Support WD52525Discuss WD52525 in the Home Theater | Audio and Video forum; WD52525 Should the lamp contacts have continuity if the lamp is good? I just replaced the lamp but still get the ... |
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| | #1 (Link) | |||
| WD52525 Should the lamp contacts have continuity if the lamp is good? I just replaced the lamp but still get the yellow lamp light then turns red and When I enter the self diagnosis it says 34 lamp abnormality. Is there a way to test the lamp for continuity to see if the lamp is defective. Any input would be a great help. | |||
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| | #2 (Link) | |||
| Re: WD52525 There is no continuity in these lamps and no practical way to test them other than in a working set. On this model it is not uncommon for the connector to get pushed out of the back of the lamp housing when you put the lamp in. The clip that holds it in will bend and the connector will pop out if the lamp hangs up on the connector and does not go in smoothly. You have to take the back off of the set to get to it in order to put it back together if this is what has happened. Another problem common in these sets are a couple of bad caps in the power supply that may give this symptom. "It is better to debate a question without settling it than to settle a question without debating it." -Joseph Joubert Raise the bar. | |||
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| | #3 (Link) | |||
| Re: WD52525 Thank you for the response the lamp connectors seem to be ok. The caps you mentioned are they the 4 100uf caps on the DM board youre referring to? My power light doesnt flash just the lamp indicator is yellow then goes red and power light shuts off. Thanks again for your response. | |||
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| | #4 (Link) | |||
| Re: WD52525 The caps on the DM and other boards will usually cause other problems. The ones that might affect this are usually the 2 3300uF caps on the PS. Beware that this chassis is a bear to work on and there are often bad caps on most of the boards. I recommend changing ALL of the Jamicon caps that are 330uF or larger on the DM, FMT, Signal, and Terminal2 boards, as well as the ones in the PS. "It is better to debate a question without settling it than to settle a question without debating it." -Joseph Joubert Raise the bar. | |||
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| | #6 (Link) | |||
| Re: WD52525 Replaced the caps on the PWB which restored power to light the lamp. I now have clear menu displays however on any input I have clear sound but video is non existant. Here is a picture of my screen with DVD ant 1, 2 or any auxillary input is the same. Clear audio but the same video abnormaly. Any Ideas what would cause this situation? WD52525.jpg | |||
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| | #7 (Link) | |||
| Re: WD52525 Update. The set is 100% repaired. Changed C9A37 and C9A38 on the PWB that fixed the lamp issue. The video problem was repaired by changing 4 1000uf @ 16 Capacitors on the FMT They were C8F21, C8F22, C8F19 and C8F27. Buttoned it back up hit power and working exceptional.After.jpg | |||
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| | #8 (Link) | |||
| Re: WD52525 Like I said, on these sets, save yourself some time and either change ALL of the larger Jamicon electrolytics or don't bother starting. They obviously had a bad batch of caps and they have been failing rather reliably (pun intended). "It is better to debate a question without settling it than to settle a question without debating it." -Joseph Joubert Raise the bar. | |||
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| | #9 (Link) | |||
| Re: WD52525 you were definately right. I changed every jamicon cap that I found 95% of them were bad and the other 5% had questionable ESR readings. Thanks for all the input. my DLP is functioning perfect now. | |||
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