Hitachi 61SWX10B - Convergence Problem

[JingoV]

First of all – my complements on this forum - it is very detailed and informative . There are some wonderful write-ups that I have been catching up on.

Based on the advise to start a new thread for a new issue here we go - I have a Hitachi 61SWX10B and recently started having convergence problems – ghost images for the Green/Red/Blue and on trying to do the Magic Focus an error #5.

So having read this very exhaustive post (sticky) – I got replacements for the STKs from Acme and swapped out both these ICs. Now I get an error #3 on the magic focus.

Specifically - I am still having the issue with the Green lines being squished in the middle like an hourglass lying on its side. When I enter into the manual convergence DCAM mode, I can adjust everything but the green horizontally. So in other words I can move the green lines left and right at any of the convergence points without a problem but cannot move these lines up and down to get rid of this hourglass effect. (please see attachment - cannot move the line in the direction of the arrows)

So specifically -

1. Which of the STKs left or right (looking at them with the heat sink behind the ICs) controls the horizontal Green?
2. Any specific component that you think might be suspect?
3. When in DCAM mode - how do I read the original settings from the ROM?
4. When in DCAM mode - how can I exit without making any permanenet changes (escaping)?

Any advise is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[lcaillo]

Change both ICs. Use the kit listed for your model in the Parts post in the convergence thread. Check the resistors or change them all if you get the right kit. The kits come from Hitachi with the resistors that you may need and the upgraded ICs. Read the convergence repair thread carefully!

PS: Your problem is vertical! When you adjust horizontal lines you are adjusting vertically. What you see is vertical pincushion.

[JingoV]

Appreicate your quick response Icaillo!

Your tip on checking the resistors did it. I had a 2.2 ohm (RK62) blown that once I replaced - things were good. I did have to run a manual DCAM though but everything now is ship-shape!

Thanks again for an awesome resource