Mitsubishi HD1080 Power Problem

**mkravich** · **08-10-06, 12:29 PM**

I have a Mitsubishi HD1080 (56") that will not power on. I plug it into the outlet and the timer light turns green for a couple of seconds and then it flashes a few times and goes away. when i hit the power button, nothing happens. I have tried multiple outlets and the same thing happens every time i plug it into an outlet. Does anyone know why this maybe and what i can do to fix it? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!!

NOTE: Model Number is WS-55311

**Darren** · **08-10-06, 01:01 PM**

Sounds like a power supply issue in the set itself. I had a similar issue with my Toshiba and it cost about $350 to fix in home. I'm not saying that is the problem but it sounds like it.

**mkravich** · **08-10-06, 01:48 PM**

I have a Mitsubishi HD1080 (55") that will not power on. I plug it into the outlet and the timer light turns green for a couple of seconds and then it flashes a few times and goes away. when i hit the power button, nothing happens. I have tried multiple outlets and the same thing happens every time i plug it into an outlet. Does anyone know why this maybe and what i can do to fix it? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!!

NOTE: Model Number is WS-55311

**lcaillo** · **08-10-06, 04:25 PM**

When you say nothing happens, do you mean that you get no LED and no click? Try pressing the Device and Menu buttons simultaneously for more than 5 seconds and see if the LED flashes a sequence of flashes. If so note the pattern.

The most common problems in these sets are shorted convergence or CRT drive ICs that will keep the set from running. Could be many other things, too.

**mkravich** · **08-10-06, 05:28 PM**

Yes...i get no LED, no click, absolutely no response from the TV whatsoever. When i first plug it in the timer light turns green , then flashes a few times then goes out. If i press power, nothing. Is the device button on the Tv or the remote?

**lcaillo** · **08-10-06, 09:38 PM**

Device may be called input on this set. Use the keypad on the set. It sounds like it is never starting up, rather than going into shutdown. The power supply will require troubleshooting. I'd call Mitsubishi and get a list of nearby ASCs (Authorized Service Centers) and check them out. Also call other independent shops in the area and see if anyone services a lot of Mitsubishi. Finding someone who has the documentation and experience with the set will go a long way toward making your service experience more efficient.

**Sonnie** · **08-10-06, 11:34 PM**

I've merged two threads together here... the first two posts were from a thread in Home Theater.

**mkravich** · **08-11-06, 09:51 AM**

Thanks for the input. It is much appreciated!

**motoxbryan** · **04-17-07, 07:20 PM**

Quote:

lcaillo wrote:

When you say nothing happens, do you mean that you get no LED and no click? Try pressing the Device and Menu buttons simultaneously for more than 5 seconds and see if the LED flashes a sequence of flashes. If so note the pattern.

The most common problems in these sets are shorted convergence or CRT drive ICs that will keep the set from running. Could be many other things, too.

I know this is a response to a message from a long time ago, but I am having the same problems. I read that the problem is most likely an IC. Do you happen to know which one has the majority of the problems. I have taken the power supply out and am going to bring it to work to look at it. By the way, I am a slot machine tech and have access to a lot of testing equipment and replacement parts. But if I knew the component which creates the most problems, it will make it a lot easier for me. Thanks.

**lcaillo** · **04-17-07, 11:09 PM**

Quote:

motoxbryan wrote:

I know this is a response to a message from a long time ago, but I am having the same problems. I read that the problem is most likely an IC. Do you happen to know which one has the majority of the problems. I have taken the power supply out and am going to bring it to work to look at it. By the way, I am a slot machine tech and have access to a lot of testing equipment and replacement parts. But if I knew the component which creates the most problems, it will make it a lot easier for me. Thanks.

If you are a tech, you should know that giving precise information is very important. What model set do you have, what diagnostics are you getting, what are the exact symptoms of your set, and what troubleshooting have you done? It is impossible to give a specific resommendation for how to proceed without specific information. What may appear to be similar symptoms may be the result of verydifferent problems.

**motoxbryan** · **04-18-07, 08:57 AM**

The symptoms are, when the tv is turned on, all you hear is a click and it shuts off within 2 seconds. I did the diagnostic test with the input and menu buttons. I got the same 2 pulse from the LED's that others received. The model number is WT-42311 Serial number 119253.

**lcaillo** · **04-18-07, 12:42 PM**

The diagnostic is a two digit response so you must be getting a 2-2 which indicates a short detect. One of the secondary supplies is going low, likely the -24v line. Check the pico fuses. You probably have a bad convergence output IC but there are other areas that can cause this, The convergence outputs are STK392-110. Replace them with the STK394-160e from the hitachi kit X480295 available from TriTronics if that turns out to be your problem.

**motoxbryan** · **04-18-07, 03:04 PM**

Okay, I only have the power supply board with me at work. I tested the pico fuses F9A02, F9A03 and so on. I found that Pico Fuse F9A05 from transformer pin #22 to Diode D9861 has only intermitant continuity. Also, I am only getting 9 volts on the orange and on the grey wire harness. Am I supposed to get more than that? I also checked all of voltage test points and am only getting around 3 volts on all.

**lcaillo** · **04-18-07, 03:13 PM**

Replace F9A05, remove the convergence output ICs and see if the set fires up and runs with no convergence correction. It likely will and you will need to replace the output ICs.

**DrFate1965** · **09-29-07, 10:06 PM**

Icalillo or others...I have one a little different for you. I have a Mitsubishi WD-62725. When we unplug the device and just plug it back in OR lose power and get it back (this is all with the TV already powered down), the Power (Timer) LED (green) starts flashing quickly like it should, but instead of turning off after one minute or so, and being in powered off ready to use mode, the LED just continues to blink rapidly. I have tried the reset button, and re-plugging in, and then eventually, if I unplug and re-plug quickly, it will work like it should and after a minute of blinking for "Starting up", the TV power/on buttons will work properly. The TV then works excellent until the next power outage or if my spouse accidentally unplugs the Monster surge protector to clean...and then the never ending rapid blinking cycle starts again, until I get the lucky quick re-plug to work. Thoughts?

**lcaillo** · **09-30-07, 12:11 AM**

Mitsubishi's answer to this is to replace the DM board or the whole chassis. The actual problem could be bad capacitors on the DM, bad caps on any or all of 5 other boards, a bad EEPROM, a problem on the signal board, or who knows what else. You need to get a Mitsubishi authorized servicer to give you an estimate, then talk to Mitsubishi customer relations about some relief on the cost of the repair and what they intend to do about it if it happens again in the future. These can be a mess to fix, and you really need to work through a Mits ASC and your dealer if you can.

**DrFate1965** · **09-30-07, 10:03 AM**

Quote:

lcaillo wrote:

Mitsubishi's answer to this is to replace the DM board or the whole chassis. The actual problem could be bad capacitors on the DM, bad caps on any or all of 5 other boards, a bad EEPROM, a problem on the signal board, or who knows what else. You need to get a Mitsubishi authorized servicer to give you an estimate, then talk to Mitsubishi customer relations about some relief on the cost of the repair and what they intend to do about it if it happens again in the future. These can be a mess to fix, and you really need to work through a Mits ASC and your dealer if you can.

Thanks for the quick reply. Wow, that's a pretty scary answer, but I truly appreciate the feedback.

Since this only happens when the TV is disconnected from power, maybe a UPS would be a less expensive solution? I would presume that the TV would use very little power when not operating and could last quite a while on a UPS while waiting for a power outage to end.

**lcaillo** · **09-30-07, 10:08 AM**

A temporary solution only. It will likely get worse. I would dela with it ASAP as I described. As the set gets older, Mits is less likely to take any responsibility for the foolishness of their design and policies regaring repair support, nor for the batches of bad caps that they bought.

**Xxpect** · **02-02-08, 08:13 PM**

I have a Mitsubishi WT-42311. When I press the power button, the light goes green for approximately two seconds then off. I tried the diagnostics and it flashed two times, paused, then repeated the two flashes a total of 5 times. Any ideas what problem this indicates?

**lcaillo** · **02-03-08, 03:06 PM**

Short protect. ONe of the low voltage supplies is down. Most common is a convergence amp. See the thread on convergence repairs and read the posts at the top of the thread.

**jopa** · **05-19-08, 12:46 AM**

I have a MITSUBISHI HD1080 MODEL # VS-A50 SERIAL # 113606. The tv powers off sometimes in 1 hour sometimes in 1 minute sometimes will not stay on at all. this happens with remote or on/off switch. push button power light on then will either work for a while or just turns itself off. Need help I am out of state and wife is upset as I will be when I get home to no TV. Please help

**lcaillo** · **05-19-08, 01:23 PM**

Please start a new thread for your problem. There is not much that she can do other than try unplugging the unit to reset and when it shuts off pull the diagnostic code by pressing INPUT and MENU on the front panel simultaneously for 5 seconds. Observe the pattern of LED flashing which is a two digit code.

**hmox** · **07-04-08, 04:56 PM**

I had the same problem, turned out the coolant in the green gun leaked and fried some of the circuitry

**hmox** · **07-04-08, 05:01 PM**

Check to see if you have any sticky or oily substance directly below the color tubes/guns. If so the coolant is leaking and shorting out the board. this is what happened to mine. couldn't find the parts, had to trash the set,

**lcaillo** · **07-05-08, 09:57 AM**

The VSA50, IIRC, should have been one of the sets that had the tray to catch any coolant leaks, but I may be mistaken. REgardless, the diagnostic code will be the first step...

If one does have a coolant leak, it is important to read the info in the thread on that issue. If you don't approach the problem carefully, you can make it much harder to fix. If you do it right, they are not that big a deal. Techs that see a lot of them have a very high rate of repair on them. Techs that don't see a lot of them assume incorrectly that they are not repairable in most cases. I have done dozens and only a few have not been repairable.

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