mitsubishi hd 1080 red and green shadows

**lcaillo** · **04-07-07, 05:23 AM**

There is a large heat sink that is hard to miss with 2 large ICs mounted on it. Note how the wires are dressed when you pull the chassis out and when you put it back replace them exactly as they are.

**shoz** · **04-07-07, 06:57 AM**

Ok thought that was it. It's on the center board up front and is almost as wide as the board. My only concern now is the 5 ribbon connnectors going from this board to the ones on each side. Assume a gentle tug will disconnect the connector at the widest point.

**lcaillo** · **04-07-07, 11:26 AM**

There is no reason to remove the board. If all you are doing is resoldering, just remove the three screws holding the chassis down at the rear of the set, loosen the wires that are tied down, remove the shortest wires' connectors, and you can tilt the chassi up enough to solder the chips. If you need to replace the parts then you can either remove the board or pull the whole light box and turn it on its side. Either way is about as much trouble but by removing the light box you are less likely to break the flex connectors or the board. If you pull the flex connectors pull up evenly on the tabs on both sides and be as gentle as possible. Also, be careful with the heat sink. It is screwed down and the board will not come out until you remove the three screws holding it to the chassis frame.

**shoz** · **04-07-07, 04:53 PM**

Is it possible that this may have been the problem. Removed the front panel to get visual sight of chips and the left chip had a thin sliver or solder from 3rd leg from right going to 4th leg from right. Used a long electronic screwdriver and broke the connection.

**Todd** · **09-22-07, 12:44 PM**

Mr red horizontall convergence is on the left when I go through the convergence menu setup. As with all apparent problems it works for a while. I do not what I did but I was able to get red to the right and adjust left. All worked fine for a while. I am about ready to throw this thing out. any Ideas would be appreciated...

**Fade** · **10-22-07, 10:36 AM**

I have a 2001 HD 1080 WT 46807 (114382) with the same problem. I think the part I have to order is the STK392-570. Do I need 2 or 3 of these? Also, I'm having troubles locating them in the set. Is there a photo or link to a photo. I'd really like to get this TV working again.

**lcaillo** · **10-22-07, 10:28 PM**

There are two of them on the largest heat sink in the set. Read the thread on convergence problems completely and post your follow-up questions here.

**fragged** · **11-26-07, 05:04 PM**

I have a WS-55313 and have what appears to be a similar problem, but I do not have a "split" situation with the colors.

My problem is that various parts of the picture seem to flash red, kind of like red static that moves around within the part of the picture it is displayed on.

The same shiny red static also appears on the outside of the letterbox when watching a movie, and also seems to appear outside of menus and such.

Does this sound like convergence or something else?

**lcaillo** · **11-26-07, 05:39 PM**

Does it look like a shadow of the image or a smear to the right?

**fragged** · **11-27-07, 10:31 AM**

It looks like neither. The picture is perfect, except in certain areas where is flashes with this red static. Like on an HD Channel, a person's face will look perfect, except their forehead will have this shiny red static all over it.

Other than that, the rest of the picture is crystal clear.

Anyone know of a good Mitsubishi repair resource in Phoenix, AZ?

**lcaillo** · **11-27-07, 08:32 PM**

Sounds like video clipping, No, I do not know anyone in Phoenix.

**SurferDiego** · **12-30-07, 06:22 PM**

I've got an HD 1080 model ws-55411 with the red offset to the right. I've tried resetting the convergence to factory settings and manually adjusting it with no success. I've never messed around with the insides of a TV before, but am very familiar with pc's. I've opened the back panel and noticed 3 main boards on bottom, with the center board appearing to be the main. There are several heat sinks on this main board, with one of them at the rear of the tv the largest (big mama jama - much larger then the others). Can you tell me if the IC for mine is on the center board and if so can I remove just the center board to do some touch up soldering with out damaging myself or the rest of the tv (lol - loaded question / of course all at my own risk). Any help (even if I don’t like the advise) is greatly appreciated.

Thanks a Bunch!
Ray

**lcaillo** · **12-30-07, 08:05 PM**

The board does not have to be removed. The entire chassis slides out if you disconnect a few wires and you can tilt it up to access the bottom of the board to solder.

**dollyo** · **12-31-07, 08:59 AM**

Hi,

I have been reading about these shadows and we have the same problem. We Live in Melbourne, Florida and our Mitsubishi Model WT-42313 purchased in September 2003 has this same problem. Do you know of where we can get parts or locate a good repairman in our area? Thank you.

**lcaillo** · **12-31-07, 08:30 PM**

Read the convergence repair thread and the parts distributor thread.

**Drsol749** · **01-05-08, 05:14 PM**

After reading all these posts it appears I found the right people with answers. I too have a Mitsubishi Medallion Model number VS-60719 that is acting up with the same problem. It is about 7 years old but it had such a great picture and it is down in my basement bar. My question does anyone have a name and phone number of a reputable repair person that lives and works near Tempe, AZ. I have called several repair companies but all of them will only remove the light box or take the tv to be worked on at their shop. None of them will give me any costs estimates over the phone other than a $59.95 trip charge. Thanks in advance, Solomon.

**lcaillo** · **01-05-08, 09:20 PM**

I will ask around.

**Drsol749** · **01-07-08, 08:38 PM**

Thankyou for responding to my request for help in trying to locate a qualified professional in my area that won't take advantage of someone like me.

Take Care, Solomon

**lcaillo** · **01-07-08, 08:53 PM**

The closest that I could find on a tech list that I use was 50 miles away and did not feel that it would be reasonable.

**dyno** · **02-22-08, 08:35 PM**

Hello there,

I'm very thankful to find this forum. I have the same problem with convergence way out of whack on the red only.

My Mit HD1080 is a model# WS-55809 made April 2002.

I'm very good with a soldering iron and would like to try fixing it myself...I had a telephone quote of 350.00 from a local shop to replace the output IC's.

I've read the above posts, but I can't seem to locate the output IC's. Can you give me some detail as to exactly where these buggers are located?

Thanks much!

dyno

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